Wondering what wines to drink in 2017? I asked a group of sommeliers and wine writers which varietals, regions and styles they’re excited to drink more of in the new year. Look for some unexpected countries, more focus on indigenous grapes and practices that go beyond the vineyard to include cooperation between wineries. (And also check out The Best Spirits And Cocktails For 2017.)
Carignan — Pascaline Lepeltier, Beverage Director for Rouge Tomate Chelsea
"More Carignan! Such an unsung hero. The answer to heat and drought. Fantastic when old, beautiful acidity always, concentration without wait and very terroir driven — it should be way more respected and planted. I also want to go back to the future and bring more '50s, '60s, '70s and '80s wines on my list to offer perspective on vintages — which includes focussing on Madeira, Port and old spirits. I'm finding a lot of gems from Eastern Europe and French South-West, especially whites that combining super high acid and power. And last, there's Manseng — I will push a lot the Petit and Gros Manseng from Jurançon. It's one of the most beautiful white wines in the world, and totally under the radar."
Morocco! — Matthew Kaner, Owner/Wine Director at Bar Covell and Augustine Wine Bar
"In 2017, more and more people will finally catch on to the brilliance that's coming out of Morocco! My good friends from Nomadic Distribution have been bringing serious quality wines from Zenata for my wine programs for years, but the populous is finally realizing it. Don't miss Ouled Thaleb's "Aït Soula," a blend of an indigenous grape from Morocco no one can pronounce correctly, with western France rockstars Tannat and Malbec."
Canada — Kelli White, Sommelier at PRESS Restaurant
"For 2017, I'm looking forward to diving deeper into Canadian wines. I was recently turned onto the Norman Hardie portfolio — gorgeous Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Ontario that are quite Burgundian in expression. And a recent trip to British Columbia revealed all sorts of high quality sparkling wines. A lot of exciting stuff is going on with our neighbor to the north!"
Australian Natural Wines — Caleb Ganzer, Head sommelier at Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels
"I'm very excited about drinking some new, delicious Australian natural wines:
Pét-Nats from Jauma, the skin-contact whites from Lucy Margaux, the Syrah from Jamsheed. All super delicious and fresh. Also looking forward to Mullineux Syrah from Swartland, South Africa. These are all wines from the most unexpected parts of the new world that deliver pleasure one would expect from the most tuned-in parts of the old world."
Sparkling — Treve Ring, Wine Writer
"Everywhere I've been this past year, from New Zealand to England to Italy to Argentina to Canada and beyond, vintners are making serious fizz. Traditional-method sparkling quality has never been higher, as folks are paying tighter attention to soils, grapes, picking dates, aging vessels and dosage. As competition grows, prices are falling, further encouraging folks to drink bubbles regularly and throughout the meal. We're starting to think of traditional-method sparkling wine as being tied to a place — a welcome, and overdue move."
Sake and Shōchū — Zachary Sussman, Wine Writer
"After the horror that was 2016, I honestly don't care what I'll be drinking, as long as its plentiful. I've recently entered a wine rut of sorts, so I'm looking forward to things that aren't wine — this means finally studying sake, a category I've always loved, but to which I've never dedicated enough time with the seriousness it deserves. Along similar lines, after a trip to the Japanese island of Kyushu, I'm eager to dive deeper into the world of shōchū, Japan's endlessly fascinating, complex and food-friendly single-distilled spirit, which retains the flavors of its raw ingredients (sweet potato, barley, rice) in a way that I've rarely encountered in other categories of booze."
Everything! — Aldo Sohm, Wine Director of Le Bernardin and Aldo Sohm Wine Bar
"Definitely champagne! We might deserve it... or just need it. I am never tired of Burgundy and I may be biased, but I really do love Austrian wine. The new wave of balanced Californian wines are really growing on me and old German Rieslings are getting me excited all the time. Also, I like Nebbiolo."
Rosé — Victoria James — Sommelier at Piora
"I'm going to be drinking a lot more rosé — all year long. Due to demand, more quality-minded wines have entered the market. There is now terroir and typicity — wine drinkers are becoming more familiar with the differences of a rosé from Corsica versus one from the Loire Valley. New world experimental versions are also popping up, and the category of has found its place on wine lists alongside white and red. Oh, and it's delicious too."
Lighter-Bodied Reds — Hristo Zisovski, Beverage Director at Altamarea Group
"What I have found myself buying and drinking at home lately are easy drinking, lighter-bodied reds, like Freisa from Piedmont, Cabernet Franc from the Finger Lakes and Gamay from Beaujalois." Zisovski also advises these are best enjoyed lightly chilled.
Slovakia and Moravia (Czech Republic) — Alice Feiring, Writer at The Feiring Line
"Continuing my fascination with post-Soviet countries getting back to business —I'm really interested in drinking wines from Slovakia and Moravia. They've another rich history that was lost and now they're coming back with super-fresh, crunchy wines that have a lot of wild energy — and yes, they're driven by the natural wine movement. Bring on the Frankovka."
Indigenous Varieties and California Classics — James Tidwell, Co-founder TEXSOM
"Balance is important in both winemaking and wine drinking. As sommeliers, we sometimes get really geeky, and its great to be reminded of the traditional and classic wines. I am revisiting some California classics such as Grgich Hills Chardonnay, Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon, Iron Horse sparkling and Tablas Creek red wines. On the opposite end of the spectrum, I am exploring in greater depth some of the grapes that I tasted during my travels, including Hungarian whites Furmint from Tokaj and Juhfark from Somló; Turkish red grapes Öküzgözü, Boğazkere and Kalecik Karası; and Greek grape varieties including Xinomavro from Northern Greece, Debina from Epirus, plus a selection of grapes from the Peloponnese peninsula. In contrast to their charmingly tongue-twisting names, these are wines of serious stature and branch out from the familiar grape profiles into new and delicious territories. They are not always easy to find, but are worth seeking for the variety and diversity they offer."
Portugal — Christopher Silva, President and CEO of St. Francis Winery & Vineyards
“I visited Portugal this year and was drawn to the fresh, crisp white Vinho Verdes, which paired well with all the fresh seafood we ate. This is a departure for me as I usually gravitate toward bold, luscious California Zinfandels. Since we always start the new year eating lighter, I'll be enjoying a few more fun, intriguing white wines such as these in 2017, as well as varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.”
Northern Rhône — Rachel Signer, Wine Writer
"This coming year, I'm drinking some of the beautiful red wines from the Northern Rhône. Producers in Cornas, Hermitage, and Côte-Rotie, to name a few of the Crus in that valley, are making some of the most energetic and unique Syrah-based wines in the world. Every time I have a really great bottle from one of these sites, it's an emotional experience, and I literally feel that I can taste the terroir of the place. These are small-production, and very expensive wines, so opportunities are few — but I'll do my best."
Oxidized and Funky — Sarah Blau, General Manager at Aster
"I plan on drinking more yeasty, purposely-oxidized, funky wines: sherry, Jura whites, Savennières, aged white Rioja. There is a fun complexity to these wines and they are meant to be enjoyed with great company and good food. Its one of the few times I get to truly nerd out on a wine, while savoring what I have in my glass. Plus it's possible to find them and not spend a fortune. The world of wine is too big to concentrate on one region or varietal. More Ganevat, Joly, Lopez de Heredia, palo cortado sherries and many more are in my plans for 2017."
Italian Reds — Fred Dex, Master Sommelier
"For me personally, I cook a lot of red sauce foods at home, so I am always looking for affordable Italian reds that over-deliver: Aglianicos, Chiantis, Nebbiolo's. Second wines from top producers. Same from Bordeaux. For my restaurant and clients, I am moving towards classic wines like Bordeaux and Burgs that I can put on a list for under 60 bucks. Yes they exist! Also where I'm at in Raleigh, people really love unique blends from California (think classic Ridge Zin, Petite Sirah, Charbono) and Chilean Carmenere Blends. And I always have my fridge stocked with a few bottles of Chablis, Falanghina and of course Pink Bubbles!"
Australia and South Africa — Sev Perru, Wine Director at The Ten Bells
"More than naming some specific cuvées, I like to talk about the amazing group of winemakers that are appearing in many wine regions of the world, and for me especially in Australia and South Africa. These winemakers are meeting regularly in order to share their knowledge and support each other. They agree to follow some common rules of vinification, to provide a real quality of living wine. I think it's very important, with what is happening in the world right now, to highlight that kind of dynamic, human aspect, mutual assistance and friendship. I'm looking forward to taste more and more of the wines from the SIP people (Swartland Independent Producers) and from all the Australian winemakers led by Anton Von Klopper (Lucy Margaux), Tom Shobbrook and James Danby Erskine (Jauma).
