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The oud fragrances to spritz this spring
All the indulgence of oud, now brighter, fresher and airier.
In the women's fragrance realm, oud is arguably one of the most polarising scent categories. Fans can't get enough of its rich, intoxicating scent (the Harrods perfume hall is known for its blast of oud) while others shy away from its intensity. In recent years, perfumers have been exploring different ways to give this multifaceted note a modern spin by pairing it with unexpected ingredients such as citrusy bergamot and plush iris. In the Western world, its easy to equate resplendent ouds with the winter months, but thanks to clever compositions involving soft musks and soothing lavender to highlight the fresher side of this note, there are plenty of ouds that work beautifully for summer.
What is oud?
Also known as agarwood, oud is produced when the mould phialophora parasitica infects the aquilaria (or agar) tree to produce a dark, fragrant resin that essentially works as the tree's defence mechanism. Oud ranks highly as one of the world's most expensive raw materials as it takes hundreds of years to produce the resin. Plus, the aquilaria tree is fast depleting due to over-harvesting and habitat loss.
Where do perfume houses source oud?
Oud has been a staple in Middle Eastern perfumery for centuries. It's also used in Japanese and Indian cultures as incense. Due to the scarcity of the agar tree, it's now illegal to harvest the resin in the wild.
"However, sustainable plantations of oud have been established in a number of locations (including Malaysia, Cambodia and Thailand), where the infection process is performed by hand rather than happening naturally," explains Nick Gilbert, co-founder of fragrance company Olfiction and perfume brand Boujee Bougies. Reputable fragrance houses have stringent supply standards in place to ensure the sourcing of oud is ethical, responsible and sustainable.
Do fragrances use synthetic oud?
"There are some 'bases' that perfume houses make which approximate the smell of oud, and contain a blend of synthetic and natural ingredients – important to capture the complexity of oud itself," says Gilbert. Due to the high cost and rarity of natural oud oil, perfumeries often use the smallest percentage in conjunction with other ingredients such as cypriol or patchouli.
What does oud smell like?
Similar to other naturally derived notes in perfumery, an ingredient's scent differs depending on its provenance. "The scent of oud oil is very complex," says Gilbert. "It's warm, slightly sweet; imagine the sweet and gloopy flavour of balsamic vinegar without the acidic side. Resinous, woody, earthy like a forest floor, fruity like cherries, bitter, smoky, very animalic, between tanned leather and goats, with a bit of blue cheese," describes Gilbert.
What does oud bring to a fragrance?
If the idea of goats and blue cheese sound unappealing, fret not. According to Gilbert, the tiniest amount of oud will lend a resinous sweetness and intensity to a fragrance. "A good perfumer knows how to hide facets of a material that are undesirable."
Holly Hutchinson, founder of British perfumery Memoize agrees. "Oud adds a rich, woody and sensual element to perfumes. It makes a scent intoxicating, and moreish, and makes you feel lavish and expensive," says Hutchinson. Not all oud scents are created alike. If you're new to ouds or haven't found the right one, Hutchinson recommends trying fragrances where oud is not the main element of the perfume. "Oud is very different on warm skin, so weather has an impact on the perception of the scent too."
Ahead, see Bazaar's favourite oud perfumes to try now.
Imposing black bottle aside, Oud Superfluide is pleasantly wearable, almost as though the note is embracing the softer side of things, all wrapped up in a fluffy cardigan. It opens with a zing of orange before drying to a gentle hug on the skin.
The longevity of oud meets the pillowy, airy sweetness of marshmallows and powdered sugar. This is an oud scent for the brighter months, to be worn with lacy white dresses. Composed with creamy musks and iris, 312 Saint-Honoré proves that there really is an oud for every season.
The words calming and serene are not usually associated with the opulence of oud, but when balanced with cool lavender and herbaceous sage, Paragon manages to transform from a head-clearing first spritz to a comforting waft of scent as the day goes on. It's an extrait, so expect impressive longevity.
Memoize London Industria Extrait de Parfum
Memoize London Industria Extrait de Parfum
A joyful blend of bountiful florals paired with effervescent citrus fruits, perfect for high summer.
Laboratorio Olfattivo ExpLOud Eau de Parfum
Laboratorio Olfattivo ExpLOud Eau de Parfum
For an easy-to-wear, everyday oud scent that's friendly even in small spaces, look no further. There are no hard edges here, just a smooth composition of Indian oud flanked by soft gardenia and lily of the valley while watery notes lend an airy freshness to the overall scent.
A disco-ready scent that opens with glitzy, glossy blackcurrants with a syrupy, succulent plum undertone. The subtlest hint of leather and patchouli adds depth to this fruity take on oud. Take extra care when spritzing on lighter coloured clothes as the tinted formula might cause staining.
For an airy splash of oud, try Granado's sheer and lightweight interpretation of the opulent scent. More 'fragranced water' than a heavy perfume, this is one to keep in your bathroom shelf for daily wear.
A femme fatale oud with generous doses of shimmering rose petals, laced with juicy lychee. It's a glittering party dress of a scent, with a sprinkling of cedar and saffron to balance out the sweetness.
If it's a sensational, showstopping, ballgown of a fragrance you're after, just a spritz (or two, if you're feeling particularly audacious) of Oud Elixir will do the job. It's a takes-no-prisoners cocktail of oud and warm cardamom that takes life by the reigns; bold, conspicuous and confidence-boosting.
Christine Nagel's latest creation for the house of Hermès is a note-perfect ode to a classic olfactory pairing: oud and rose. This bold, spicy blend opens with a modern, just-sweet-enough floral note, before unveiling the traditional spicy warmth beneath. If you're new to oud and want something seductive yet wearable, this is a flawless choice.
An energising dose of ginger lifts the richness of oud before settling into a powdery, woody concoction. One to spritz on your jumper for lingering cosiness.
Inspired by sand dunes at golden hour, a sprinkling of saffron adds warmth to sumptuous rose petals and earthy patchouli.
Art de Parfum Sensual Oud Extrait de Parfum
Art de Parfum Sensual Oud Extrait de Parfum
A quiet luxury take on oud, this polite blend of fluttery, soft pink rose petals and green geranium leaves is pleasantly wearable for daytime and those who are easing into ouds.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood EDP
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood EDP
Baccarat Rouge 540 may be the current fan favourite, but don't sleep on Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Oud Satin Mood. Rather than a full blast of cloying oud, there's a note of creamy, vanilla-drizzled rose here that'll keep you coming back for more. Just like BR450, this has excellent sillage so get ready for the compliments to roll in.
Jo Malone London Oud & Bergamot Cologne Intense
Jo Malone London Oud & Bergamot Cologne Intense
Jo Malone London shines at creating sunlit, summertime fragrances and Oud & Bergamot is no exception. It sees the richness of oud shot through with freshly squeezed citrus. It's clean, fresh, and perfect all year round.
Hot pink, red berries, sparkling sequins...if any of these resonate with you, then Another Oud is your poison. It's fizzing with charm and is instantly cheering thanks to hints of raspberries, bergamot and a base of fluffy, sweet musk.
If it's drama and decadence you're after, a spritz of Cartier's Oud & Ambre should do it. This opulent scent is oud at its most refined; buttery smooth and with plenty of depth without ever being heady. Hosting a dinner party? This will definitely stir conversations and the impressive longevity will have you dazzling all night.
An unapologetic, roaring oud laced with velvety rose petals and a cloud of incense. Not one for the faint of heart, but it's guaranteed to turn heads in the best way.
From the perfumer that brought us icons such as Mugler Angel and Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue comes Akro, an ode to moments of pleasure and debauchery. Night conjures up memories of an evening out with cocktails aplenty, a potential romance just brewing around the corner. Under the masterful nose of Olivier Cresp, this translates into a sophisticated composition of rose, powdery iris and just a touch of oud.
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