One of the most unique and celebrated square slices in the city is also one of the more polarizing. L&B serves a pie which has the cheese directly applied to the dough and is then topped with sauce. It is an architecture that has found expression elsewhere, most notably with the so called "tomato pies" of Trenton, NJ, but it's not very common in New York City.

Prince Street Pizza might just be the new king of square pies. The restaurant offers five different versions that are all easy to love, including a regular Sicilian (pictured above), the pepperoni-loaded Spicy Spring, and the Broadway Breadcrumb, which is similar to Sfincione, a cheese-less bread found in Sicilian bakeries.

The pizza pomodoro at Jim Lahey's Sullivan Street Bakery is the most elemental square pie in the city, but it's also deceptively complex. The smear of tomato, the thin-but-pliant crust with slightly burnt edges, and the hint of salt result in a slice that is greater than the sum of its parts.

While the regular round pie is the main attraction here, don't miss out on the Sicilian. It uses the same ingredients as the regular pie: a three cheese blend that includes buffalo mozzarella, a flavorful tomato sauce. and fresh cut basil. But the thicker crust of the square slice holds up better than the round pie, especially since Dom DeMarco has taken to anointing his pizza with lashings of olive oil.

This West Village mainstay offers a Sicilian slice that looks like a dense cheese bomb but is actually quite light and airy. The slightly sweet sauce and molten cheese are in perfect proportion to the crust. Pro tip: Have them cut the slice in half to make eating it more manageable.

While best known for the eponymous artichoke slice, both the margherita and the Sicilian pies here are inspired by Di Fara and they are similarly appointed. The Sicilian is baked with enough oil in the sheet pan for the pie to qualify as fried. The result is a deeply burnished crust which gets so oily and rich that you might think the pie is laden with pepperoni (it isn't).

This old school Murray Hill pizzeria sells a Sicilian slice with a comical amount of cheese. Ironically, while you might tell yourself that you will discard much of it, don't be surprised to find an empty plate at the end. It may seem like a lot of cheese, but it is turns out to be just the right amount.