WO2015028424A1

WO2015028424A1 - Emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning cosmetic or dermatological preparation with light-protection filters

Info

Publication number: WO2015028424A1
Application number: PCT/EP2014/067991
Authority: WO
Inventors: Heike Lerg; Andreas Bleckmann
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2013-08-29
Filing date: 2014-08-25
Publication date: 2015-03-05
Also published as: DE102013217247A1

Abstract

The invention concerns an emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning cosmetic or dermatological preparation with light-protection filters which leave an SPF of at least 6 on the skin after use on wet skin and showering.

Description

Emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning cosmetic or dermatological preparation with sunscreen filters

The invention comprises an emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning cosmetic or dermatological preparation with sunscreen filters. The preparation is suitable for application on wet skin without being completely rinsed off, thus enabling the creaming and the application of sun protection filters during the shower.

Applying under moist conditions, skincare under the shower, will

in summary understood as skin conditioning. This means, inter alia .:

1 . Use of a standard shower product to cleanse the skin, rinse off

2. Application / distribution of the preparation according to the invention on wet skin

3. Reapply with warm or cold water

4. Drying of the skin

WO 2013064391 A2 describes cosmetic or dermatological preparations which make it possible to apply cream under the shower.

Due to lack of time, many people want the most efficient

Skin care. Creaming with sunscreen is often considered annoying and

time-consuming measure.

It is therefore desirable to provide the skin with sufficient sun protection even when showering.

For the purposes of the present invention, a measure of the solar or UV protection performance is, for example, the sun protection factor (SPF or SPF).

As sufficient sun protection, an SPF of at least 6 on the skin is considered.

In general, the light absorption behavior of sunscreen filter substances is very well known and documented, especially as in most industrialized countries there are positive lists for the use of such substances, which apply quite strict standards to the documentation. Depending on the area in which the UV light is absorbed, a distinction is made between UV-B filters, UV-A filters and broadband filters, which have a filtering effect over the entire range of UV-A and UV-B. By appropriate selection of the UV filter and its concentration in the sunscreen one has the opportunity to influence the degree of shielding of the UV light. For the dosage of the substances in the finished formulations, however, the extinction values can at best be one

Provide guidance, because interactions with ingredients of the formulation or the skin itself may cause uncertainties. Furthermore, it is usually difficult to estimate in advance how uniformly and in which layer thickness the filter substance is in and is or is distributed on the horny layer of the skin, which in turn is essential for the protective mechanism.

DE 19950497 A1 describes cosmetic preparations comprising alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and aminodicarboxylic acid partial esters. The preparations increase the stability of UV light protection filters.

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides are known nonionic surfactants and nothing is mentioned about achieving UV protection during showering.

DE 102010008321 A1 describes various substances for improving the UV

Sunscreen performance.

The invention is an emulsifier-free cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising one or more polyacrylic acid polymers, one or more C14-22 fatty alcohols and one or more waxes and / or a hydrocarbon mixture and one or more light filters.

The preparation preferably comprises waxes, in particular Cera Microcristallina, in the range from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

The preferred level refers to both individual waxes and preferably the total amount of multiple waxes.

As a light filter are preferably one or more substances from the group 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and / or salts thereof; Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid salts; 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts; 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid; 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid salts; 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol); 2- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] -phenol; 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} - 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine; 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 3-benzylidenecamphor; ethylhexyl salicylate; Terephthalidendicamphersulfonsäure; 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane;2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate; 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate; 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester; 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoyl ester; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone;2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Hexyl 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate; homomenthyl; 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate; dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate; 3- (4- (2,2-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl-butamidotriazone); 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4- phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine with (CAS No. 288254-16-0); 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino] (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone); 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine); 2,4,6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5- triazine;

merocyanines; Titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide chosen.

Preferred light filters are one or more of the group 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine,

Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate,

Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, disodiumphenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate,

Drometrizoltrisiloxane, ethylhexyltriazone, ethylhexyl salicylate, homologate, silicone

Benzalmalonate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, polysilicone-15, phenylbenzimidazole-sulphonic acid and / or terephthalidic dicamphor-sulphonic acid.

In a preferred embodiment, the addition of titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide is not necessary, so that these preparations do not comprise TiO 2 or ZnO.

According to the invention, it is advantageous to choose the choice of the sunscreen filter substances from the group of lipophilic compounds.

Since the basic preparation according to the invention is composed of predominantly lipophilic substances, it is thus possible to achieve a longer retention on the skin.

The proportion of one or more sunscreen filters is advantageously from 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

The proportion of shares refers to both one and several filter substances, so that in total no more than 50% by weight, advantageously 40% by weight or not more than 35% by weight of sunscreen filters are advantageously contained.

It has been found that the simple incorporation of sunscreen filters in prior art formulations used under shower does not lead to the desired results.

Rinsing under the shower and drying will generally leave no film on the skin that will provide a basic sunscreen of at least SPF 6. Surprisingly, the remaining of light filter and thus an SPF of at least 6 after rinsing and drying on the skin by the preparation according to the invention succeeds. The application of the combination of special fatty alcohols, waxes and advantageously one or more film-forming agents leads to a sunscreen even in the shower.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously comprise one or more film formers.

Advantageously, these film formers are selected from the group hexadecene copolymer,

Trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polysilicone-25,

Acrylate copolymer, polyurethane, methacrylate, polyglyceryl stearate, dilinoleate crosspolymer, alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosspolymer, IPDI copolymer, in particular

VP / Hexadecenes Copolymer, Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-25, Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer,

Acrylate copolymer, polyurethane-2 and polymethyl methacrylate, polyglyceryl stearate /

Isostearate dilinoleate - crosspolymer, octadecene / MA copolymer (and) methyl acetylricinoleate (and) diisooctyl adipate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polyurethane-34, C8-22 alkyl

Acrylates / Methacrylic Acid Crosspolymer and / or Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer.

The proportion of film formers is advantageously selected in the range from 0.1% by weight, in particular from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

The sun protection factor SPF remaining on the skin after application of the preparation according to the invention was determined as follows:

For products applied to wet skin after showering

• Control and static areas are applied and irradiated as usual.

• The test person lathers each "wet area" with a neutral shower product for 30 seconds and then rinses it individually using a baffled shower for 30 seconds.

• The test person applies the same products again to the wet skin (2 mg / cm ² ) in the 3 "wet areas" and distributes them as usual (20-30 s)

• The test areas are then rinsed for 10 seconds using a flood shower

• The test person dries the test area gently dabbing with a white one

Towel off.

In order to determine whether a sunscreen agent remains on the skin, the following examination has been carried out in vitro.

Method (s) used: Infrared spectroscopy, UV-VIS spectroscopy The following results refer to tests with PMMA plates. The PMMA plates left behind a clearly recognizable film.

The preparations according to the invention were applied to wet PMMA surfaces and rinsed with lukewarm water (4 mg of water / cm ² + 2 mg of product / cm ² , applied / triturated for about 40 s, rinsed for about 30 s).

• In all approaches, the composition of the film remaining on the surface was very similar to the fat phase of the corresponding formulation (very similar IR spectra). An enrichment or depletion of certain light filters could not be determined.

• To determine the amount of residual product / water resistance, UV transmission measurements were taken on each PMMA plate (compared to dry applied and non-rinsed runs).

• To verify the fluorescence quenching (via the optical brightener in paper) was also documented by photo.

• In the results obtained by UV transmission, although scattering was observed, which was also to be expected under the given measurement conditions / measurement geometries, inventive approaches showed in the selected

However, conditions of application have a reproducible behavior.

The inventive approaches showed a relatively high water resistance and

thus a fate of sunscreen filters on the skin.

Only this remaining on the skin film allows the application and the whereabouts of light filters and thus an SPF of at least 6 on the skin.

The sun protection factor LSF, often also called SPF (sun protection factor), indicates the extension of the sun exposure, which is made possible by using the sunscreen. It is the ratio of erythema threshold with sunscreen and erythema threshold without sunscreen.

The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) will comply with the regulations of the

International SPF Test Method (COLIPA, May 2006) determined in vivo on human skin.

In the preparation according to the invention are one or more fatty alcohols and at least one additional wax and / or mixture of liquid and solid

Hydrocarbons, having a melting range of 5 ° C to 75 ° C, preferably up to 55 ° C (according to DSC), given together, in particular melted.

This means that in addition to at least one fatty alcohol it is advantageous to contain at least one wax or, in addition to fatty alcohol, at least one mixture of liquid and solid is present Contain hydrocarbons. Ideally, fatty alcohol, wax and / or a mixture of hydrocarbons are included.

Preferred as fatty alcohols are myristyl, cetearyl and / or stearyl alcohols, as waxes Cera Microcristallina, Coco-Glyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Synthetic Wax, Cera Alba, Paraffin, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate,

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus oil, C20-40 alcohol and / or beeswax and as a hydrocarbon mixture to choose Paraffinum Liquidum.

Preference is given to Cera Microcristallina.

Preferred use concentrations of the wax or wax is in the range of 0.5 to 20 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.

The fatty alcohols, waxes and hydrocarbon mixtures advantageously all have a melting range of 5 ° C. to 75 ° C., preferably up to 55 ° C. (according to DSC).

DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) is a thermal method for measuring emitted / absorbed heat quantity of a sample during isothermal operation, heating or cooling (see DIN 53765, DIN 51007, ASTM E 474, ASTM D 3418). DSC is a comparative measurement method that enables the determination of heat quantities of physical and chemical processes. If a material is his

physical state changes, such as Melting or transformation of one crystal form into another, or if it reacts chemically, heat is absorbed or released. These amounts of heat can be measured quantitatively with the help of DSC. The method runs cyclically, so that after the first heating curve, a defined cooling takes place and then the sample is heated again in the specified temperature range. This gives two different kinds of information: In the first heating curve, all thermal effects, including the prehistory, are discernible. In the second heating curve, the history has been eliminated and the pure thermal behavior of the sample under defined cooling conditions can be evaluated. The melting range of fatty alcohols, waxes or hydrocarbons between 4.5 ° C and 75 ° C according to DSC is the range determined in the first heating curve.

Fats and fat-like substances with a waxy consistency can also be used according to the invention as waxes. These include u.a. Fats (triglycerides), mono and diglycerides, natural and synthetic waxes, fatty and wax alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids and fatty acid amides or any mixtures of this substance.

Particularly preferred are the waxes from the group of fats, in particular from the group of natural waxes: Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Mango Butter, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Sunflower Seed Wax, Soybean Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii

Unsaponifiables,, Wool Wax, Cera Alba, Beeswax, Sugar Cane Wax, Cera Carnauba, Candelilla Wax, Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Shellac Wax, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil,

from the group of synthetic waxes, in particular:

Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene, Paraffin Wax, Ceresin, Ozokerite

from the group of fatty acids, in particular:

Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid,

from the group of esters of fatty acids, in particular from

Cetearyl Nonanoates, Methyl Palmitates, Glyceryl Tribehenates, Glyceryl Laurates, Glyceryl Stearates, Cetyl Palmitates; Shea Butter Oleyl Esters, PEG-8 Beeswax

selected.

As fatty alcohols C14 to C22 fatty alcohols are used. Preference is given to

Fatty alcohols chosen from the group of linear fatty alcohols, especially myristyl (C14H ₃₀ O), cetyl alcohol (or palmityl) (C ₆ H ₃₄ 0), stearyl alcohol (or

Octadecyl) (C ₈ H ₃₈ 0) and cetyl stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, (a mixture of the alcohols cetyl alcohol hexadecanol) and stearyl alcohol (octadecanol).

The proportion of total C14-22 fatty alcohols is advantageously 0.5 to 10 wt.%, In particular 0.5-5%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

Hydrocarbon gels or mixtures of liquid and solid paraffin hydrocarbons are preferably used as hydrocarbon mixtures. The content of solid hydrocarbons in the hydrocarbon mixture is preferably between 1 and 50%, preferably between 2 and 20%, particularly preferably between 1 and 10%. The use of hydrocarbon mixtures is advantageous.

The proportion of the total hydrocarbon mixture is advantageously 1 to 50 wt.%, In particular 5 to 20 wt.%, Particularly preferably 5-10 wt.%, Based on the

Total mass of the preparation.

Fatty alcohol, in particular one or two fatty alcohols, according to the invention are necessarily included in the preparation. In addition, one or more waxes of the preparation added. Preferably, instead of the wax, a hydrocarbon mixture of liquid and solid hydrocarbons which are liquid at room temperature may also be added.

Ideally, the preparation comprises all three building blocks, fatty alcohols, waxes and

Hydrocarbon mixture.

The preparation and preparation according to the invention may then be admixed with cosmetic or dermatological substances known to the person skilled in the art, the addition of which may not impair the skin-conditioning and, above all, UV-protection properties of the available preparation.

Advantageously, thickeners, fillers and neutralizing agents are added to the preparations.

Thickeners are advantageously suitable for stabilizing the system and enhance the skin-conditioning properties and the special skin feel of the preparations according to the invention.

As a filler, aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinat is preferably added, which also leads to an optimization of the skin feel by the skin protection film acts a little more velvety.

Sodium hydroxide solution is advantageously added as a neutralizing agent so that the thickeners can form their gel network and a stable system is formed.

The preparation according to the invention is emulsifier-free. That the optionally acting as emulsifying polyacrylic acid polymers are not understood according to the invention as emulsifiers.

In other words, in addition to the polyacrylic acid polymers, no further emulsifiers are added to the formulation.

Emulgatorfrei also includes a minimum content of additional emulsifiers of less than 1 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, for example, by

Contaminants or entrainments may be included. The influence on the product performance may be irrelevant in these quantity ranges.

However, preference is given to a content of emulsifiers of 0% by weight.

Polyacrylic acid polymers are understood as meaning the polymers of acrylic and / or methacrylic acid known in cosmetics and acrylate crosspolymers.

Preferably, these are high molecular weight polymers (macromolecules) (> 1 Mg / mole) composed of a backbone of polyacrylic acid and small amounts

Polyalkenylether cross-links exist. They are also referred to as carbomers. These water-soluble or dispersible polymers can be found in the liquid in which they are dissolved or dispersed, cause a significant increase in viscosity. This is caused by the formation of carbomer microgels in the water.

Particularly preferred polyacrylic acid polymers are, in addition to the carbomers, those acrylate crosspolymers which exert a polymeric emulsifier action.

Polymer emulsifiers are mainly high polyacrylic acid polymers

Molecular weight. These emulsifying polyacrylic acid polymers have a small lipophilic portion in addition to the hydrophilic body. For the purposes of the present invention, very particular preference is given to acrylate crosspolymers which have the INCI name

"Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer" have and among the

Trade names PemulenTR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 and Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol ETD 2020 are available from NOVEON.

The polyacrylic acid polymers are particularly preferably selected from the group of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and / or carbomers. Especially preferred are acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer Pemulen® TR-1, e.g. from Lubrizol and Carbopol® 3128 from Lubrizol.

More preferably, the or the polyacrylic acid polymers are selected from

Acrylic acid copolymers from Dow Chemical available under the trade name Epitex ™ 66.

In this case, according to the invention, a specific combination of polyacrylic acid polymers having an emulsifying action, such as the Pemulen TR-1 with other polyacrylic acid polymers, such as Carbopol 3128, which improve the sensory properties and ensure the stability of the preparation, especially at higher temperatures, and a connection with free water.

Particularly preferred herein is a combination of three polyacrylic acid polymers wherein a polyacrylic acid polymer has an emulsifying effect, e.g. the pemulen TR-1 or pemulen TR-2, with other polyacrylic acid containing the sensory

To improve properties and stability of the preparation, especially at higher temperatures (e.g., Carbopol 3128) and a polyacrylic acid polymer, which improve the sensory properties upon ingestion of free water (e.g., Carbopol 981).

The preparation according to the invention therefore advantageously comprises at least three polyacrylic acid polymers, in particular three polyacrylic acid polymers, which differ in their properties.

The proportion of total polyacrylic acid polymers is preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, In particular 0.2 to 1 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation. The combination of at least two polyacrylic acid polymers with at least two C 14-22 fatty alcohols for improved stabilization of the preparation and, above all, the skin feel when used on wet / moist skin has not proven to be advantageous

uncomfortable, not waxy, dull or squeaky.

According to the invention, two polyacrylic acid polymers or three polyacrylic acid polymers are understood to mean that one polyacrylic acid polymer differs from the other in at least one property. The substance group acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers comprises, for example, the commercial products pemulen TR-1 or TR-2.

Carbomers are differentiated, for example, into types A, B and C. Differences here are, for example, their gels with different viscosities (United States Pharmacopoeia, USP).

Also essential to the invention and therefore preferred is a proportion of waxes or preferably a mixture of liquid and solid hydrocarbons having a melting range of 4.5 to 75 ° C, in particular up to 55 ° C according to DSC.

Optionally, polar oils can be added as oils in the preparation according to the invention. Use amount of the polar oils is advantageously 1 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 2 to 8 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.

In the context of the present disclosure, the term "lipids" is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, as is well known to the person skilled in the art. Also, the terms "oil phase ,, and" lipid phase ,, are used interchangeably.

Among other things, oils and fats differ in their polarity. It is proposed to assume the interfacial tension against water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. In this case, the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water, the greater the polarity of the relevant oil phase. According to the invention, the interfacial tension is considered as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.

The interfacial tension is the force acting on an imaginary line of one meter length located in the interface between two phases. The physical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically by the force / length relationship and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive connotation if it tries to reduce the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign.

The preparation according to the invention makes it possible for the first time to apply the care under the shower as well as the application of light filters already during the showering process. The preparations according to the invention are advantageously formulated only with preservatives which have a water solubility of more than 0.75% at 20 ° C.

Due to the lack of emulsifiers, destabilization and crystallization can otherwise occur.

The preparations according to the invention are furthermore preferably also free of surfactants.

Surfactants are substances that are the surface tension of a liquid or the

Reduce interfacial tension between two phases and the formation of

Enable or support dispersions. Surfactants cause two actually immiscible liquids, such as oil and water, can be dispersed.

Furthermore, surfactants are described as amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure, they provide at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic one

Part of the molecule, for a reduction of the surface tension of the water, the

Moisturizing the skin, facilitating the removal of dirt and solution, a

easy rinsing and - as desired - for foam control.

The hydrophilic fractions of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OSO ₃ ^2" , -SO ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic moieties generally represent nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals

Generally classified by type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Here four groups can be distinguished:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. Furthermore, washing-active substances, such as, for example, cationic surfactants, in particular quaternary ammonium compounds, are known. A detergent substance is used in detergents, dishwashing detergents, shampoos, shower gels and denotes the proportion of the formulation which influences the washing or cleaning performance. Detergent Active

Substances increase the "solubility" of fat and dirt particles in water that adhere to the laundry or body, they can be of natural or synthetic origin and are classified according to the nature of their charge in anionic, cationic, ampholytic or nonionic.

Emulsifiers cause two immiscible liquids (for example, oil in water) to mix together to form an emulsion. Due to the amphiphilic character, they penetrate into the oil with their fat-soluble part. As a result of the hydrophilic part, the oil droplets that are now formed by stirring can be dispersed in the aqueous environment. "Primarily, emulsifiers have no detergent surfactants

Character.

Emulsifiers and surfactants can damage the skin's barrier layer. The

Preparations are therefore neither emulsifiers nor surfactants added, so advantageous no washing-active substances.

Advantageously, the preparations skin moisturizer, moisturizer added.

The preparations are used on wet skin and especially for shaving.

The preparation according to the invention can be used for skin conditioning.

It allows the production of a skin protection film after application of the preparation on the skin and subsequent rinsing with water.

The protective film that forms is ideally at least 1 μm thick (measured according to IR-ATR measurement technology) and / or does not comprise substances which damage the skin barrier, in particular no emulsifiers, surfactants, PEG ^'s and / or organohalogen compounds.

In the case of restrictions on preferred substances, whether lipids, waxes, light filters or film formers or further preferred components, their preferred ranges of proportions then also relate to the individual constituents then selected. The others, which are excluded from the restriction, will no longer be included in the listed proportions.

The following examples illustrate the preparation according to the invention

to obtain preparations according to the invention.

The numerical values are parts by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. inci 1 2 3 4

Myristyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00

Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 3.00 3.00 3.00

Cera Microcristallina 7,24 5,00 0,00 0,00

Paraffin Liquidum 0.00 2.04 0.00 0.00

Paraffin 0,00 0,00 7,24 5,00

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate + Aqua 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

Glycerine + Aqua 0,90 0,90 0,90 0,90

Aqua + Sodium Hydroxide 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16

Phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80

Ethyl paraben 0.00 0.10 0.00 0.10

Methylparaben 0.00 0.30 0.00 0.30

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Carbomer 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Trisodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Homosalats 0.00 9.00 9.00 9.00

Octocrylene 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00

Ethylhexyl salicylate 4.50 4.50 4.50

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.50 4.50 4.50 4.50

Polysilicone-15 3.00

Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad100 ad100

Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00

Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 0.00

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 3.00 3.00 3.00

Paraffin Liquidum 0,00 4,00 0,00

Paraffin 0.00 7.24 0.00

Cera Alba 0,00 0,00 2,00

Hydrogenated Castor Oil 7.24 0.00 0.00

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate 0.00 1.80 0.00

C18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 0.00 0.00 5.00

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate + Aqua 1.00 1.00 1.00

VP / hexadecenes copolymer 0.00 0.00 2.00

Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00

Glycerol + Aqua 0,90 0,90 0,90

Aqua + Sodium Hydroxide 0.16 0.16 0.16

Phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.80 0.80

Ethylparaben 0.10 0.10 0.10

Methylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10 0.10 0.10

Carbomer 0.02 0.02 0.02

Acrylate copolymer (Epitex 66) (active content 43-46%) 0.10 0.10 0.10

Trisodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Homosalats 9,00 4,50 9,00

Octocrylene 4.50 9.00 4.50

Ethylhexyl salicylate 4.50 4.50 4.50

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.50 4.50 4.50

Diethylhexyl butamido triazone 0.00 3.00 0.00

Polysilicone-15 1.00

Ethylhexyl triazone 3.00

inci 9 10 11

Myristyl alcohol 0.00 0.50 0.50

Cetearyl alcohol 0.00 0.50 0.50

Stearyl Alcohol 0,00 1,00 1,00

Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 3.00 3.00 3.00

Cera Microcristallina 0,00 2,00 2,00

Paraffin 6.24 4.24 4.24

C18-38 alkyl

Hydroxystearoyl Stearate 1.00 1.00 1.00

Aluminum Starch

Octenylsuccinate + Aqua 1.00 1.00 1.00

Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00

Glycerol + Aqua 0,90 0,90 0,90

Aqua + Sodium Hydroxide 0.16 0.16 0.16

Phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.80 0.80

Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl

Acrylates Crosspolymer 0.10 0.10 0.10

Carbomer 0.02 0.02 0.02

Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl

Acrylates Crosspolymer 0.10 0.10 0.10

Trisodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Homosalats 9,00 9,00 9,00

Octocrylene 9.00 9.00 9.00

Ethylhexyl salicylate 4.50 4.50 4.50

butyl

Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.50 4.50 4.50 Polysilicone-15 4.50

Ethylhexyl triazone 2.00

Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 inci 12 13 14

Myristyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00

Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00

Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 3.00 3.00 3.00

Cera Microcristallina 7,24 5,00 0,00

Paraffin Liquidum 0,00 2,04 0,00

Paraffin 0.00 0.00 7.24

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate + Aqua 1.00 1.00 1.00

Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00

Glycerol + Aqua 0,90 0,90 0,90

Aqua + Sodium Hydroxide 0.16 0.16 0.16

Phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.80 0.80

Ethylparaben 0.00 0.10 0.00

Methylparaben 0.00 0.30 0.00

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10 0.10 0.10

Carbomer 0.02 0.02 0.02

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10 0.10 0.10

Trisodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Homosalates 0.00 9.00 9.00

Octocrylene 9.00 9.00 9.00

Ethylhexyl salicylate 4.50 4.50

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.50 4.50 4.50

Polysilicone-15 3.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazines 0.50 1.00 1.50

Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 inci 15 16 17 18

Myristyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.00

Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

Stearyl Alcohol 2,00 2,00 2,00 0,00

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 0.00 3.00 3.00 3.00

Paraffin Liquidum 0.00 0.00 4.00 0.00

Paraffin 5.00 0.00 7.24 0.00

Cera Alba 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.00

Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.00 7.24 0.00 0.00

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate 0.00 0.00 1.80 0.00

C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate 0.00 0.00 0.00 5.00

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate + Aqua 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

VP / hexadecenes copolymer 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.00

Perfume 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

Glycerine + Aqua 0,90 0,90 0,90 0,90

Aqua + Sodium Hydroxide 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16

Phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80

Ethylparaben 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Methylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Carbomer 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Trisodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Homosalats 9,00 9,00 4,50 9,00

Octocrylene 9.00 4.50 9.00 9.00 Ethyl hexyl salicylates 4.50 4.50 4.50 4.50

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.50 4.50 4.50 4.50

Diethylhexyl butamido triazone 0.00 0.00 3.00 0.00

Polysilicone-15 1, 00

Ethylhexyl triazone 3.00

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazines 0.50

Aqua ad100 ad100 ad100 ad 100

inci 19 20 21

Myristyl alcohol 0.00 0.50 0.50

Cetearyl alcohol 0.00 0.50 0.50

Stearyl Alcohol 0,00 1, 00 1, 00

Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 3.00 3.00 3.00

Cera Microcristallina 0,00 2,00 2,00

Paraffin Liquidum 0.00 0.00 0.00

Paraffin 6.24 4.24 4.24

C 18-38 alkyl

Hydroxystearoyl Stearate 1, 00 1, 00 1, 00

Aluminum Starch

Octenylsuccinate + Aqua 1, 00 1, 00 1, 00

Perfume 1, 00 1, 00 1, 00

Glycerol + Aqua 0,90 0,90 0,90

Aqua + Sodium Hydroxide 0.16 0.16 0.16

Phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.80 0.80

Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl

Acrylates Crosspolymer 0, 10 0.10 0.10

Carbomer 0.02 0.02 0.02

0,10 0,10 0,10

Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Trisodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Homosalats 9,00 9,00 9,00

Octocrylene 9.00 9.00 9.00

Ethylhexyl salicylate 4.50 9.00 4.50

butyl

Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.50 4.50 4.50

Polysilicone-15 4.50

Ethylhexyl triazone 2.00

Aqua ad100 ad100 ad100

Claims

claims

1 . An emulsifier-free cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising one or more polyacrylic acid polymers, one or more C 14-22 fatty alcohols and one or more waxes and / or a hydrocarbon mixture, characterized in that one or more light filters are contained.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax or waxes in a proportion of 0.5 to 20 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, are selected.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that are selected as fatty alcohols myristyl, cetearyl and / or stearyl alcohols.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as wax Cera Microcristallina, Coco glyceride, C18-36 acid triglyceride, synthetic wax, Cera Alba, paraffin, Copernicia cerifera Cera, C18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii butter, Olus oil, C20-40 alcohol and / or beeswax

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more film formers are included.

6. Preparation according to claim 5, characterized in that as a film former

Hexadecene copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polysilicone-25, acrylate copolymer, polyurethane, methacrylate, polyglyceryl stearate, dilinoleate crosspolymer, alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosspolymer, IPDI copolymer, especially VP / hexadecenes copolymer, octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate / polypropylsilsesquioxane, polysilicone-25 , Ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylate copolymer, polyurethane-2 and polymethyl methacrylate,

Polyglyceryl stearate / isostearate dilinoleate - crosspolymer, octadecene / MA copolymer (and) methyl acetylricinoleate (and) diisooctyl adipate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polyurethane-34, C8-22 alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosspolymer and / or castor oil / IPDI copolymer.

7. Preparation according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that as a film former Castor Oil / IPDI copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate / Polypropylsilsesquioxan and / or acrylate copolymer can be selected

8. Preparation according to claim 5, 6 or 7, characterized in that the film former or the film formers to a proportion of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, are selected.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as light protection filter 2-ethylhexyl-methoxycinnamate, bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyl-triazine, Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan, Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoat, Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, Disodiumphenyldibenzimidazoltetrasulfonat, Drometrizoltrisiloxan, Ethylhexyltriazon, Ethylhexylsalicylat, Homolate, silicone

10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the light protection filter bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyl-triazine, octocrylene,

Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, ethylhexyltriazone, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,

Ethylhexyl salicylate, homologate and / or polysilicone-15.

1 1. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of the total sunscreen filter content in the range is advantageously 1 to 50 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 40 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10-35 wt.% Is selected ,

12. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more skin moisturizing agents are contained.

13. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free of surfactants.

14. Use of the preparation according to one of the preceding claims on wet skin.