WO2011071795A1

WO2011071795A1 - Peelable, water-based nail cosmetic system

Info

Publication number: WO2011071795A1
Application number: PCT/US2010/059039
Authority: WO
Inventors: Susanne Langmuir; Mitchell Schlossman
Original assignee: Susanne Lang Fragrance Inc.
Priority date: 2009-12-07
Filing date: 2010-12-06
Publication date: 2011-06-16

Abstract

A water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system that can be removed by peeling, without the use of an acetone-based remover, the nail cosmetic system comprised of a nitrocellulose topcoat containing hexamethyldisiloxane and a peel-off, aqueous basecoat containing a polyvinyl acetate emulsion.

Description

Peelable. Water-Based Nail Cosmetic System

[0001] Field of Invention

[0002] The present invention relates to a nail cosmetic - in particular, a water- based, nail product that can be removed by peeling without the use of an acetone- based nail lacquer remover. Additionally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic product that can deliver water-soluble active ingredients to the nail.

[0003] Statement of Federally-Sponsored Research

[0004] None.

[0005] Background of Invention

[0006] Nail lacquers are cosmetic formulations that coat the nails. Typically, nail lacquers are mixtures of film-forming polymers, plasticizers, as well as colorants and other additives dissolved in a mixture of volatile organic solvents. Consumer selection of nail cosmetics is influenced by a number of factors, for example, color (both in bottle and on nails), gloss, opacity, and durability (of color and gloss as well as resistance to chipping).

[0007] Performance and aesthetic attributes are not, however, the only determinants of consumer choice. Purchasers of nail cosmetics are also strongly influenced by ease of application, including dry time, and removal.

[0008] The basecoat of the water-based nail cosmetic system of the present invention has a comparatively faster dry time vis-a-vis a conventional nail lacquer. This attribute allows users to apply a second, and as needed third, basecoat {i.e. , after the previous coat has dried) in substantially less time than is required to apply a similar number of coats of a conventional nail lacquer.

[0009] Acetone-based formulations are widely used to remove the majority of nail lacquers. Because nail lacquer removers need to dissolve and remove multiple layers of lacquer, removers typically contain at least about seventy percent acetone. It is well-known, however, that acetone removers have a several significant negative properties - (i) they emit what many users consider to be an unpleasant (even noxious) odor; (ii) some have suggested that acetone poses potential health hazards; (iii) acetone has a significant drying effect on nails and skin; (iv) when acetone dissolves conventional nail lacquers, especially reds and darker colors, the skin is often stained. The need for nail cosmetic products that could be removed without using an acetone-based formulation was met - at least temporarily - by removers containing ethyl acetate. In 2004, however, California promulgated air quality environmental regulations relating to ethyl acetate, limiting its use. There, thus remains a need for nail cosmetics that can be removed without acetone. This need is met by the nail cosmetic system of the present invention.

[0010] Health and environmental concerns have and continue to impact nail cosmetics, in particular lacquers. Health and safety concerns about formaldehyde have lead to formaldehyde being banned in a multitude of personal care products. Toluene had long been among the most widely-used solvents in nail lacquers.

However, since 1992, the use of toluene in retail nail lacquers has been banned by the California Air Resources Board. Similarly, dibutyl phthalate (DBP) had been used extensively as plasticizer. Health concerns have caused regulatory authorities in the European Union to ban the use of dibutyl phthalate in nail lacquers. In response to these concerns - both for humans and the ecosystem - nail product manufacturers are beginning to eliminate some or all formaldehyde, toluene and DBP from their formulations. The nail cosmetic system of the present invention is free from formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate.

[0011] Summary of the Invention

[0012] The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of the present invention is comprised of (i) a nitrocellulose topcoat containing hexamethyldisiloxane and (ii) a peel-off, aqueous basecoat. As used in the present application, by the term

"peelable" is meant a basecoat nail cosmetic of the present invention and/or a basecoat of the present invention in combination with a topcoat of the present invention that can be removed by peeling, without the use of an acetone-based remover. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the peelable nail cosmetic, system is removed in substantially a single piece.

[0013] Detailed Description of the Invention

[0014] Topcoat

[0015] The topcoat of the water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of the present invention is comprised of: hexamethyldisiloxane; nitrocellulose as the primary film-forming polymer; one, preferably two, secondary film-forming polymer; and a plasticizer. Additionally, the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention contains at least three, preferably four, solvents and, optionally, a UV- absorber and/or a colorant.

[0016] Nitrocellulose is the primary film-forming polymer of the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention. It is an article of commerce made by esterifying the three hydroxyl groups on cellulose fibers with nitric acid. Due to its highly explosive nature, tri-nitrated cellulose is combined with a wetting agent.

Preferably, the wetting agent is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl alcohol (IPA), ethyl alcohol, butyl alcohol and isobutyl alcohol or toluene. More preferably, the diluent for nitrocellulose is isopropyl alcohol. Preferably, the IPA is combined with nitrocellulose at a ratio of about 30 parts IPA to 70 parts

nitrocellulose.

[0017] Nitrocellulose is classified in the art using a viscosity-based nomenclature system; the viscosity being determined on a solution of nitrocellulose dissolved in a specified solvent. The grade of nitrocellulose is described based on the time (expressed in seconds) required for a steel ball (standardized in terms of mass and size) to travel the length of a glass tube filled with the dissolved nitrocellulose. By convention second is abbreviated with quotation marks (e.g., ½" is the shorthand expression for Vi-second grade.) In the topcoat of the present invention,

nitrocellulose is preferably a grade of less than one second, more preferably about ¼ second, about ½ second or a mixture thereof.

[0018] In preferred embodiments of the present invention (nitrocellulose in 30% IPA), the top-coat includes from about 8.5% to about 13.0% by weight nitrocellulose, based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0019] Preferred grades of nitrocellulose are 1/2" grade and 8/13" grade.

[0020] Without the addition of one or more secondary film forming polymers, nitrocellulose films are brittle and are more likely to chip and/or crack. The topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention therefore includes at least one, preferably two secondary film-forming polymers selected from the group consisting of polyester resins and acrylics.

[0021 ] Polyester resins are formed by the reaction of a dibasic organic acid a tribasic organic acid, or a mixture there of, with a polyhydric alcohol. Adipic acid, phthalic acid and isophthalic acid are preferred dibasic organic acids.

[0022] Preferably, a polyester resin is present in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention at a concentration of from about 5% to about 8%, based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester resin is a copolymer of adipic acid, neopentyl glycol and trimellitic anhydride monomers (INCI Name: Adipic Acid /

Neopentyl Glycol/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer).

[0024] In a more preferred embodiment, Adipic Acid / Neopentyl

Glycol/T rimellitic Anhydride Copolymer is in solution in n-butyl acetate, where 68 to

72 parts of the polyester are combined with 28 to 32 parts of n-butyl acetate. In a more preferred embodiment, this polyester resin supplied as a solution in (supplied as a 28 - 32% solution in n-butyl acetate, on a weight-% basis) is present at a concentration of from about 7.0% to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0025] Acrylics are articles of commerce known in the art, and are formed by polymerization or copolymerizations of esters of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid.

[0026] A preferred acrylic suitable for use in the present invention is an acrylate- copolymer, a copolymer of monomers selected from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and esters thereof. Preferably, the acrylic is a copolymer of methyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate.

[0027] Another acrylic suitable for use in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention is a copolymer of styrene and one or more

acrylate/methacrylate esters.

[0028] Preferably the acrylate is present at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 2% based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0029] Plasticizers serve the function of making the primary film-forming polymer (nitrocellulose) and the second film-forming polymer more flexible and, thereby, increase the overall durability of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention. The plasticizer in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of esters of citric acid (acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl tri-n-butyl citrate) as well as esters of benzoic acid, triphenyl phosphate, dibutyl adipate, glyceryl triacetate, trimethyl pentanediol diisobutyrate and dibutyl phthalate.

[0030] Preferably, the plasticizer is an ester of citric acid, more preferably, acetyl triethyl citrate.

[0031] In a preferred embodiment, the plasticizer is present at a concentration of from about 5% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0032] Hexamethyldisiloxane is an essential ingredient of the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention, and has the molecular formula C₆Hi₈OSi₂ and conforms to the structure:

[0033] Preferably, hexamethyldisiloxane is present in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention at a concentration of from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0034] The topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention contains multiple solvents - at least one, preferably two, oxygenated solvent(s) and at least one, preferably two, coupling solvent(s).

[0035] As used in the present application, "oxygenated solvent" means an ester, ketone or glycol ether that can dissolve the film formers (i.e. , nitrocellulose as well as secondary film-forming resins) and plasticizers in the topcoat.

[0036] As used in the present application, "coupling solvent" means an alcohol which is mixed with at least one oxygenated sol'

[0037] Preferrably, the at least one oxygenated solvent is an acetate selected from the group consisting of ethyl acetate, n-propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, and isobutyl acetate.

[0038] More preferably, the topcoat contains two acetates as oxygenated solvents.

Preferably, the first of the two acetates is n-butyl acetate, which is present at a concentration of from about 20% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat. Preferably, the second of the two acetates is ethyl acetate, which is present at a concentration of from about 30% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0039] An example of a ketone suitable for use as an oxygenated solvent in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention is methyl ethyl ketone.

[0040] An example of a glycol ether suitable for use as an oxygenated solvent in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention is propylene glycol monomethyl ether.

[0041] Preferrably, the at least one coupling solvent in the topcoat is a lower alcohol selected from the group of isopropyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, butyl alcohol and isobutyl alcohol.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment, the topcoat contains two coupling agents. In this embodiment, the first coupling solvent is preferably isobutyl alcohol, which is present at a concentration of from about 10% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat and the second coupling solvent is preferably isopropyl alcohol, which is present at concentration of from about 3% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0043] Nitrocellulose is susceptible to yellowing (then browning) when exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from 290 - 400 nm. The topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention can and preferably does contain a UVR-absorber. By UVR-absorber is meant an ingredient that attenuates, blocks and/or absorbs ultraviolet radiation. A preferred the UVR-absorber is Benzophenone-3, which is present at a concentration of less than about 0.5% by weight, preferably less than about 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0044] The topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention may optionally contain at least one colorant. Preferably, the colorant is DC Violet 1 , at a concentration of less than about 0.05% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.

[0045] Peel-Off, Aqueous Basecoat

[0046] The peel-off, aqueous basecoat is comprised of (i) an emulsion of polyvinyl acetate, (ii) polyvinyl pyrrolidone, (iii) a gloss-enhancing moisturizer ("GEM"), (iv) a volatile silicone, and (v) optionally, a lower volatile alcohol selected from the group of ethanol and isopropanol.

[0047] In the peel-off, aqueous basecoat of the present invention, the polyvinyl acetate ("PVAc") emulsion contains vinyl acetate polymer (CAS No. 9003-20-7), hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol (CAS No. 9002-89-5), vinyl acetate (CAS No. 108-05-4), and water.

[0048] Polyvinyl pyrrolidone is a water-soluble polymer made from the monomer N-vinyl

[0049] In a preferred embodiment of this aspect of the present invention, PVP has a molecular weight of from about 10,000 to about 40,000.

[0050] In the PVAc emulsion, the ratio of vinyl acetate polymer to water is from

58:42 to 52:48, more preferably from 56:44 to 44:56.

[0051] Preferably, vinyl acetate and hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol are present in the emulsion at a concentration of from about 1 .5% to about 2.0% by weight of the PVAc emulsion, where the ratio of vinyl acetate and hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol is from about 1 :2 to about 1 :2.5.

[0052] The polyvinyl acetate emulsion is present in the peel-off, aqueous basecoat at a concentration of from about 50% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the basecoat.

[0053] Polyvinyl pyrrolidone is present in the peel-off, aqueous basecoat at a concentration of from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the basecoat.

[0054] A gloss-enhancing moisturizer, preferably glycerin, is present in the peel- off, aqueous basecoat at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 2.0% by weight of the basecoat.

[0055] The peel-off, aqueous basecoat contains a volatile cyclic silicone, preferably at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight of the basecoat. Volatile cyclic silicones conform to the formula:

CH₃

I -(Si-0)_n- I

CH₃

where n is an integer from 3 to 6.

[0056] The peel-off, aqueous basecoat contains one or more water-soluble preservatives known to persons having ordinary skill in the art and described, for example, in D. Steinberg, Preservatives for Cosmetics (Allured: 2^nd Edition, 2006). Typically, the one or more water-soluble preservatives are present at a concentration of less than about 1.0%.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the peel-off, aqueous basecoat contains a lower volatile alcohol selected from the group consisting of ethanol and isopropanol, more preferably ethanol. When present, the lower volatile alcohol is at a

concentration of from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 5% to about 10%.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment, the peel-off, aqueous basecoat contains one or more water-soluble active ingredients, preferably a water-soluble vitamin.

[0059] D-panthenol is a preferred water-soluble vitamin and is preferably present at a concentration of from about 0.1 % to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the basecoat.

[0060] In order to create different shades of the peel-off, aqueous basecoat, a series of monochromatics are made according to the following procedure.

[0061] Sift an individual pigment slowly into the peel-off, aqueous basecoat. The pigment to basecoat ratio should be from about 1 :19 to about 1 :4. Mix the pigment into the basecoat with a high-speed homomixer at a speed sufficient to create a vortex at ambient temperature. Homomixers are known to persons having ordinary skill in the art and are commercially-available from a number of suppliers, including Eppenbach and Silverson. Alternatively, the pigment can be added to the basecoat and then passed through a colloid mill or a three-roller mill, then checked with a Hegmann gauge (e.g., confirm that the dispersion does not contain agglomerates).

[0062] The following formulation examples are further illustrative of the present invention in certain of its embodiments. The components and specific ingredients are presented as being typical, and various modifications can be derived in view of the foregoing disclosure within the scope of the invention.

[0063] Example 1 - Topcoat

Nitrocellulose (½") 8.5 - 13.0

Ethyl Acetate 30.0 - 40.0

Butyl Acetate 20.0 - 30.0

Isobutyl Alcohol 10.0 - 15.0

Isopropyl Alcohol 3.0 - 6.0

Polyester Resin 5.0 - 8.0

Acrylate Copolymer 0.5 - 2.0

Acetyl Triethyl Citrate 5.0 - 8.0

Hexamethyldisiloxane 0.05 - 0.50

Benzophenone-3 0.1 - 0.5

DC Violet 1 0.01 - 0.05

[0064] Combine acetates. Sift nitrocellulose into acetate mixture. Mix with highspeed explosion-proof mixer until homogenous. Add remaining ingredients in sequence with constant mixing at ambient temperature.

[0065] Example 2 - Peel-off, Aqueous Basecoat

Water QS

PVAc Emulsion 50.0 - 60.0

Polyvinyl Pyrrolidone 5.0 - 10.0

D-pathenol 0.1 - 0.5

Cyclomethicone 0.5 - 4.0

Glycerine 0.5 - 2.0

Ethanol 5.0 - 10.0

Preservative <1.0

[0066] Add PVAc Emulsion to water. Mix with Silverson or similar homomixer. Add remaining ingredients in sequence with constant mixing at ambient temperature.

[0067] All documents cited herein are, in relevant part, incorporated herein by reference; the citation of a document is not, however, to be construed as an admission that it is prior art with respect to the present invention. To the extent that there is a conflict between the use of a term in this application and a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition in this application should be applied. While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

[0068] While the illustrative embodiments of the invention have been described with particularity, it will be understood that various other modifications will be apparent to and can be readily made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Accordingly, it is not intended that the scope of the claims appended hereto be limited to the examples and descriptions set forth hereinabove but rather that the claims be construed as encompassing all the features of patentable novelty which reside in the present invention, including all features which would be treated as equivalents thereof by those skilled in the art to which the invention pertains.

Claims

A water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system comprised of

(i) a nitrocellulose topcoat containing hexamethyldisiloxane and

(ii) a peel-off, aqueous basecoat containing a polyvinyl acetate emulsion. The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the nitrocellulose topcoat contains at least two film-forming resins and a plasticizer.

The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 2 wherein the at least two film-forming resins are selected from the group consisting of polyester resins and acrylic resins.

The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 3 wherein one of the at least two film-forming resins is a polyester resin present at a concentration of from about 5% to about 8% based on the total weight of the topcoat.

The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 3 wherein the resin derived from acrylic acid is acrylates copolymer, present at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 2% based on the total weight of the topcoat.

The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 2 wherein the plasticizer is an ester of citric acid.

The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 6 wherein the plasticizer is acetyl triethyl citrate, present at a concentration of from about 5% to about 8% by weight based on the total weight of the topcoat.

The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the polyvinyl acetate emulsion is present in the peel-off, aqueous basecoat at a concentration of from about 50% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the peel-off, aqueous basecoat.

The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 8 further comprising a gloss-enhancing moisturizer.

10. The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 9, wherein the gloss-enhancing moisturizer is glycerin at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 2.0% by weight of the peel-off, aqueous basecoat.

1 1 . The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 8 further comprising a volatile lower alcohol selection from the group of ethanol and isopropanol, where the volatile lower alcohol is present at a concentration of from about 2% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the peel-off, aqueous basecoat.

12. The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 8 further comprising a water-soluble active ingredient.

13. The water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of claim 12, wherein the water-soluble active ingredient is a vitamin.