WO2011030308A1

WO2011030308A1 - Make-up and/or care method for keratinous material

Info

Publication number: WO2011030308A1
Application number: PCT/IB2010/054088
Authority: WO
Inventors: Xavier Blin; Audrey Ricard
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-09-11
Filing date: 2010-09-10
Publication date: 2011-03-17
Also published as: FR2949955A1; FR2949955B1

Abstract

The present invention provides a make-up and/or care method for the skin and/or the lips comprising at least the following steps consisting in: a)providing an applicator member having an application surface that is capable of turning about an axis or a center of rotation in response to being moved in engagement with the keratinous material; b)bringing said application surface into contact with at least one solid composition and at least one solvent medium, said solid composition and said solvent medium co-existing in separate manner; and c)applying the thus removed composition to said keratinous material using said applicator member by moving said application surface over said keratinous material in rotation about said axis or center of rotation.

Description

Make-up and/or care method for keratinous material

The present invention relates to a novel method for making up and/or for care of keratinous material and more particularly intended for the application of a solid cosmetic composition to a keratinous material, in particular to the skin.

There is a constant interest in developing formulations intended for making up and/or for care of keratinous material, in particular the skin, that are endowed with properties that are satisfactory in terms of application, comfort, stability and mechanical properties, and also in terms of the finished makeup effect, such as coverage and uniformity of the makeup, for example.

In the field of makeup compositions, in particular foundations, solid forms, such as compact powders or cast compositions, prove to be particularly advantageous.

Firstly, said solid compositions are practical, compact and easy to package. Solid compositions are also particularly appreciated for their ability to stabilize certain active ingredients that cannot be carried in fluid cosmetic formulations, such as non-liposoluble active ingredients, for example.

Furthermore, it is possible to incorporate relatively large quantities of pulverulent substances in them, in particular pigments, such as oxides of iron or titanium, and thus to obtain compositions with improved coverage properties.

However, such solid compositions also suffer from limitations in terms of their use.

Thus, using large quantities of ingredients and/or the presence of certain other ingredients, such as certain polymeric thickening agents, which are of interest for the wear properties with which they endow the makeup they produce, may also be prejudicial to qualities facilitating the taking of the solid composition incorporating those ingredients. In other words, such compositions may prove to be too hard and may therefore be poorly suited to being taken by a conventional method of application such as using a sponge or a brush.

Further, active ingredients that only have an effect when they are in the presence of a solvent medium and/or are solvated by a solvent medium are generally not contained in such compositions. In order to compensate for this limitation, solid compositions already exist that are known as "two-way cakes" that can be used dry, as they are, like conventional powders, or in association with water.

A two-way cake type composition is generally moistened with a sponge that is pre-moistened and that, when brought into contact with the solid composition, separates out a portion therefrom. The composition mixes with the water and is then used on the skin as a semi-fluid foundation producing an enhanced coverage effect.

Such compositions are particularly appreciated by users primarily because of their dual use, both as a powder and as a foundation, while only taking up the space of a single composition.

However, for that type of two-way cake composition, conventional sponge type methods of taking and application can sometimes prove unsatisfactory as regards the color effect and above all the uniformity of the makeup they produce. It may be difficult to take the right amount of composition, and problems may ensue for the user firstly in accurately adjusting the coverage desired, and secondly in reproducing this same effect during a fresh application.

For obvious reasons, it would thus be desirable to have a makeup method available that can overcome the above-mentioned limitations for makeup and/or care compositions in the solid form, in particular solid foundations.

Thus, there is a need to benefit from the cosmetic properties of certain ingredients without in any way being affected by their impact as regards the ability to take the solid composition incorporating them.

There is also a need for a make-up method that improves the interaction of a solvent medium with a solid composition, for which is desired either to take advantage of an active agent thereof that is activatable by said solvent medium, or to improve its coverage effect, as with two-way cake type powders.

The present invention seeks precisely to respond to these needs.

More particularly, exemplary embodiments of the present invention provide make-up and/or care methods for a keratinous material, in particular the skin and/or the lips, the method comprising at least the following steps consisting in: a) providing an applicator member having an application surface that is capable of turning about an axis or a center of rotation in response to being moved in engagement with the keratinous material;

b) bringing said application surface into contact with at least one solid composition and at least one solvent medium, said solid composition and said solvent medium co-existing in separate manner; and

c) applying the thus removed composition to said keratinous material using said applicator member by moving said application surface over said keratinous material in rotation about said axis or center of rotation.

Such a method proves to be advantageous on several counts.

In general, by means of its association with an appropriate solvent medium, the method of the invention enables a given solid composition to provide additional properties of interest either in terms of facility of taking the composition and/or in terms of the makeup effect.

Thus, the method makes it possible to benefit from certain ingredients, such as certain polymeric thickening agents, that can provide the film of makeup with improved properties, in particular in terms of wear, but that, having regard to the hardness they impart to the composition, also affect the taking properties thereof.

Similarly, the method is also advantageous with certain compounds that are particularly appropriately used in the solid form but that can only reveal their effect once in contact with, dispersed in and/or solvated in a suitable solvent medium, especially an aqueous medium. By way of example, such compounds, termed "activatable in" or "sensitive to" a specific solvent medium may be active ingredients (hydrophilic or lipophilic) or certain pigments that only manifest their coloring effect in the presence of a specific solvent medium.

Finally, the method of the invention proves to be particularly suitable to "wet" use of compact powders of the two-way cake type, as described above. Such an applicator device enables a makeup effect to be produced that is significantly improved, especially in terms of uniformity of deposit, producing a makeup effect that is discrete and natural.

In the context of the invention, the term "co-existing in separate manner" means that the solid composition and the solvent medium do not exist within the same composition. Further, in the context of the present invention, the term "solid" means a composition of firm consistency that retains its shape during storage. In contrast to compositions termed "fluid", it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by hardness as defined below.

The composition of the invention may be in particular a composition for making up and/or for care the skin and/or the lips, and preferably for the skin.

The composition of the invention may be a composition for making up and/or for care of the skin, in particular the face and/or the body, and may constitute a blusher, an eye shadow, a face powder, a foundation, a concealer, a lipstick, a body makeup composition, a face or body care product or a sunscreen.

More particularly, but not exclusively, the invention provides a foundation composition.

In the context of the invention, a "solvent medium" generally denotes a solvent or a mixture of solvents that, with a given composition, makes it possible in particular to dissolve and/or to activate certain compounds and/or to dilute the overall composition.

As illustrated below, the nature of the solvent medium used in the method of the invention is dictated directly by the nature of the composition to be taken. The skilled person is able to determine the nature of the solvent medium to be used for a given specific composition that is to be taken and applied.

The applicator device is not limited to a single variant embodiment of the applicator member.

As becomes apparent from the accompanying drawings, several variant embodiments may be envisaged, provided that they are compatible with rotation of their application surface about at least one axis or center of rotation in response to said surface being moved in contact with the keratinous material to be treated, generally the skin.

It should be understood that this ability to undergo rotation in response to a movement of the application surface over a keratinous material is also manifested during movement of the application surface over the solid composition to be taken for the purposes of applying makeup.

The applicator member may be defined by a roller, a ball, or a band disposed about two rollers with parallel axes of rotation. The solvent medium may be contained in a container that may optionally be integral with the applicator member during use and/or storage. In a preferred implementation, it is not integral therewith. This container is not illustrated in the figures below.

In first variant exemplary embodiments of the method of the invention, step b) for bringing the application surface of said applicator member into contact with at least one solid composition and at least one solvent medium more specifically comprises the following steps, consisting in:

i) impregnating and/or coating the application surface of said applicator member with said solvent medium; and

ii) bringing said application surface impregnated and/or coated thereby into contact with said solid composition;

steps i) and ii) possibly being carried out consecutively in the chronological order of i) then ii), or simultaneously.

The applicator member is intended both to take a portion of the solvent medium present in the associated container, and to take a portion of the composition present in the second container, and finally to apply the composition taken thereby to the surface of a keratinous material.

Having regard to the various possible variant embodiments, these two steps i) and ii), impregnation of the applicator member with the solvent medium and bringing it into contact with the solid composition, in first variant exemplary embodiments, may be carried out consecutively, especially when the container containing the solvent medium is distinct from the applicator member. The user must first bring the application surface into contact with the solvent medium, for example by "immersing" the applicator member in the solvent medium, prior to removing the solid composition.

In other variant exemplary embodiments, steps i) and ii) may be carried out simultaneously, as when the solvent medium is stored in a container that is integral with the applicator member, and is delivered directly to the surface of the applicator member.

The user may then take solid composition directly, for example by rubbing and/or pressing the surface of the applicator member onto the surface of the composition, possibly causing the applicator member to rotate, the surface of said applicator member simultaneously being coated with appropriate solvent medium deriving from a reservoir that is integral with the applicator member.

In another variant implementation of the method of the invention, step b) of bringing the application surface of said applicator member into contact with at least one solid composition and at least one solvent medium more specifically comprises the following steps, consisting in:

i) bringing said solid composition into contact with said solvent medium; and ii) bringing said surface of the applicator member into contact with said solid composition thus "wetted" by said solvent medium;

As an example, step i) of said second variant may more particularly be carried out by depositing one or more drops of said solvent medium onto the surface of a cake of the composition.

As with the first variant discussed above, steps i) and ii) of this second variant embodiment may be carried out consecutively. In other exemplary embodiments, they may be carried out simultaneously using, for example, a suitable applicator device with, for example, in addition to the applicator member, an appropriate tip that is integral with a container containing the solvent medium, allowing the surface of the solid composition to be "wetted" simultaneously with movement of the applicator member over that surface therewith.

The applicator member may optionally be integral with the container containing the composition to be applied during use or storage. Preferably, it is not integral.

Secondly, the composition removed with the applicator member is applied to the keratinous material. The outer surface of the applicator member, and more particularly the roller, passing over the surface of a keratinous material, in particular the skin of the face, causes it to rotate and smoothes the composition disposed on its outer surface.

Having regard to the different variant embodiments proposed in Figures 1 to 6 below, these movements over the keratinous material and over the solid composition may occur consecutively, as with the variants shown in Figures 1 to 5, generally in the chronological order of the surface of the composition then the surface of a keratinous material, but they may also occur simultaneously, as in the variant shown in Figure 6 in which the movement of the application surface over the keratinous material initiates its movement over the solid composition, the two movements then occurring jointly.

With movements that occur jointly, it is to be understood, as discussed above, that the applicator member is impregnated and/or coated with associated solvent medium either initially, or simultaneously using an applicator that also includes a device that is appropriate for direct delivery of solvent medium to the applicator member, or else that the solid composition is initially or simultaneously "wetted" by the solvent medium.

Once the outer surface of the applicator member and more particularly the roller is impregnated and/or coated with composition, its passage over the surface of a keratinous material, in particular the skin of the face, causes it to rotate and smooth the composition disposed on its outer surface.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the applicator member according to the instant invention may be included into a packaging and applicator device comprising a container containing the solvent medium that allows the delivery of the solvent medium directly to the applicator member.

Advantageously, the packaging and applicator device may comprise at least one applicator head that is configured so that the solvent medium may flow to the applicator member.

Thus, in a particularly advantageous embodiment, the packaging and applicator device may be made so that its enables the delivery of the solvent medium to the applicator member according to the user choice, prior to removing the solid composition, simultaneously with removal of the solid composition and/or simultaneously to application over a keratinous material.

For example, the device may be made so that the user may see the solvent medium flowing from one or more dispenser orifices to the applicator member, thereby making it easier to determine the quantity that is dispensed.

In a variant, the device may be configured to deliver to the applicator device a specific dose of solvent medium.

Advantageously, such devices make it possible for the user to control and/or adjust the quantity of the solvent medium that is dispensed to the applicator member. Further, it is possible with such devices to homogeneously impregnate and/or coat the application surface of the applicator member by said solvent medium, in particular of a surface of the foam type of the applicator member, preferably of roller type. Such an applicator surface, homogeneously impregnated and/or coated by the solvent medium, promotes homogenous removal of the cosmetic composition over the applicator surface, in particular over the whole surface of the applicator roller, and consequently homogeneous deposit on the keratinous material.

Examples of packaging and applicator devices that allow a controlled delivery of the solvent medium from a container to the applicator member are illustrated in Figures 7 and 8.

In variant exemplary embodiments, the applicator member may be provided with a removable brake that can block or brake its free rotation during removal and/or application, if necessary.

The outer face of the applicator member is formed, at least on the surface, by a material that is capable of taking some cosmetic composition and retaining it until it is subsequently applied to the skin.

For example, the application surface intended to come into contact with a keratinous material may in particular be an optionally- flocked foam with open or closed cells, a flocked material, an elastomer, a sintered material, a woven material or a nonwoven material.

The outer surface of the applicator member may optionally be smooth. Thus, said applicator member may advantageously have surface portions in relief, generally domed and rounded, that are advantageous in providing a simultaneous massaging effect.

In preferred variant exemplary embodiments, its appearance is close to that of an applicator roller similar to that used for applying paint. Such applicators used for cosmetic purposes have in particular been described in the documents FR 985 064 (lipstick), FR 1 524 192 (powder), FR 1 281 338 (compact composition), and FR 2 848 790 (solid or fluid cosmetic composition).

Thus, the applicator member is advantageously in the form of an optionally- hollow roller that rotates about an axis of rotation. Said axis of rotation may advantageously be disposed perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis of the device. When the applicator member is a roller, the composition may have one surface intended for taking the composition that is rectangular in shape, with a dimension greater than the length of the roller, for example a width in the range 1.01 to 1.2 times the length of the roller. The base of the recess containing the composition may be rounded and concave in order to facilitate taking of the composition until it is completely exhausted, by rolling the applicator member along the whole length of the recess containing the composition.

In preferred exemplary embodiments, the applicator device and the container containing the makeup and/or care composition are combined in the same packaging, for example the same case provided with a base containing the composition and having a recess for receiving the applicator and a cover that can move relative to the base, for example being hinged thereto.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the application surface of said applicator device is of the foam type, thereby different from plastic or metal materials generally used for rotating balls of roll-on dispensing systems, like roll-on deodorants and antiperspirants.

In other particularly preferred embodiment, the applicator means are advantageously in the form of a roller, thus different from a rotating ball.

In particular, the use of a roller presenting a larger application surface in contact with the keratinous material makes it possible to improve the quality of the final makeup, especially in terms of uniformity of the deposit.

In other preferred exemplary embodiments, when it is distinct from the applicator member, the container containing the solvent medium is also present in packaging combining the applicator and the composition, as described above, including an additional recess to receive the solvent medium.

During application, the applicator member is capable of turning on the skin without slipping. Several passes in succession may be made at the same location, e.g. depending on the desired color intensity. During successive passes, the user may modify the direction of rolling a little in order to blend out the edges of the deposited composition. The user may thus readily modify the makeup.

Such a device is good to hold and very easy to handle. Using an applicator member of the invention in order to deposit a solid composition on the surface of a keratinous material, and more particularly the skin, may produce a massaging effect on the skin with a sensation of well-being.

Thus, using an applicator member of the invention proves to be easy and may also produce sensations that are agreeable to the user.

The advantages of carrying out the method of the invention become more apparent from the following detailed description. Clearly, the invention is not limited to the variant embodiments defined above; they are presented solely by way of non-limiting method of the invention.

Examples of applicator devices for carrying out the invention

The figures show some examples, inter alia, of applicator devices that may be used.

In the drawings:

• Figure 1 is a diagrammatic perspective view of an example of a packaging and applicator device of the invention;

• Figure 2 shows the Figure 1 device, with its case open;

• Figure 3 shows the Figure 1 device with its applicator device removed;

• Figure 4 is a diagrammatic elevation view of a variant embodiment of the applicator member; and

• Figures 5 and 6 show two other variant embodiments of applicator devices, in diagrammatic, fragmentary longitudinal section;

• Figures 7 and 8 show diagrammatic elevation view of examples of packaging and applicator devices of the invention that allow the delivery of the solvent medium directly to the applicator member.

In the figures 1 to 6, the container containing the solvent medium, which may optionally be integral with the applicator member, is not shown. In all of the packaging and applicator devices shown, it should be understood that during use, the applicator member and/or the solid composition have or has been impregnated with said solvent medium.

In figures 7 and 8, the container containing the solid cosmetic composition to be applied of the invention that is not integral with the applicator member, is not shown. It should be understood that during use, the user may take solid composition using the applicator member of the devices shown, for example by rubbing and/or pressing the surface of the applicator member onto the surface of the solid composition. The packaging and applicator device 1 shown in Figures 1, 2, and/or 3 comprises a case 2 including a base and a lid 4 that is movable relative to the base; said lid 4 may comprise a transparent window 5 allowing the contents of the case to be seen when the case is closed.

The base 3 includes a recess 6 receiving a cake of composition P in the form of a compact powder and a recess 7 accommodating an applicator device 8, acting to take the composition P and apply it to human keratinous material.

In a variant embodiment, not shown, the base 3 may also include an additional recess receiving the solvent medium, not shown in the figures.

The applicator device 8 comprises a handle 9 and an applicator member 10 capable of turning relative to the handle 9, for example and as shown, about an axis of rotation X that may be oriented perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis of the handle. This handle may have a shape that is generally flat, parallel to a plane containing the axis of rotation X.

The applicator member 10 may be in the form of a roller with an application surface that may be a cylinder of revolution about the axis X.

The application surface may be defined by any material capable of retaining the composition and of applying it, for example an elastomeric material or a foam with open or closed cells, or a flocked membrane. The material defining the application surface may be compressible.

The length of the applicator member 10 may correspond substantially to the width w of the cake of composition. This cake may be rectangular in shape, as shown.

The recess 7 receiving the applicator device 8 may have a bottom 14 provided with a grid 14 and may include a slope 16 that keeps the handle 9 inclined slightly upwardly and towards the side of the case, to facilitate grasping by the user. A cutout 18 may open into the recess 7 in order to facilitate engagement of a finger in order to pick up the handle 9. The recess 6 into which the composition P is cast may be parallelepipedal in shape or may have a concave rounded shape that is a portion of a cylinder with a generator line parallel to the axis of rotation X when the applicator device 8 is moved over the surface of the cake of composition in order to load it with composition. This avoids the presence of corners where the composition could accumulate without being removed.

The case may include a clasp 20 that may be of any type.

To use the applicator device 8, the user moves the applicator member 10 one or more times over the cake of composition P by rolling it over the surface of the cake of composition and then applies it to the keratinous material to be treated, for example the skin, by passing it one or more times over the zone where the composition is to be deposited.

During movement over the skin, the applicator member 10 is capable of rolling without sliding.

The invention is not limited to an applicator member in the form of a roller turning about an axis of rotation.

As an example, as shown in Figure 4, the applicator member 10 may be in the form of an applicator ball 10, which can be retained in a cage, not shown, fastened to a handle 9. In the example of Figure 4, the applicator member 10 is capable of turning about any axis in its cage.

In a variant embodiment shown in Figure 5, the applicator member 10 may also be defined by an applicator band mounted to turn about two rollers 25 and 26 with parallel axes of rotation. The portion of the band 10 acting in application may be moved in contact with the skin when the applicator device 10 is moved in contact therewith in order to apply the composition.

In a variant embodiment, not shown, the axes of rotation of the rollers 25 and

26 are disposed such that the portion of the band 10 that comes into contact with the keratinous material in order to apply the composition is not in contact with only one roller, but is between both rollers.

In the variant embodiment shown in Figure 6, the composition P is accommodated in a case that remains integral with the applicator device 8 during application of composition. The composition P is, for example, in the form of a cake integral with a pan 31 that is urged against the applicator member 10 by means of a spring 32, for example of the helical type as shown. In the example of Figure 6, the applicator member 10 may remove composition from one side while applying it with the other.

In a variant embodiment shown in Figure 7, the packaging and applicator device 8 comprises a container 28 containing the solvent medium and an applicator head 27 secured to the container 28, and carrying an applicator member 10 that is rotatable about an axis of rotation X, which axis extends, by way of example and as shown, perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis Y of the device. In the example shown in Figure 7, the applicator member 10 is in the form of a roller; however the applicator member 10 could present some other shape, e.g. a form of an applicator ball as shown in Figure 4.

The applicator member 10 may be hollow and may be configured so that the solvent medium may flow to the outer surface of the applicator member 10. For example, the applicator member comprises dispenser orifices, possibly fitted with valves, or the applicator member may be made at least partially of a porous material, for example a sintered material or foam.

The feeding of the applicator member with solvent medium may be made with a hollow axis around which the applicator member is capable of turning or that turns with the applicator member.

The container 28 may have a flexible wall, thereby enabling a user pressing the body to expel the composition within the applicator member 10. The device may be configured so that the applicator head 27 is surmounted by a suitable cap, not shown, that protects the applicator device during storage. By way of example, the body of the container 28 is made by blow injection molding or blow extrusion, using a thermoplastic material, e.g. a polyolefm.

The applicator head 27 comprises one or more ducts, not shown, that allow conveying the solvent medium from the container 28 to the applicator member 10.

The applicator head 27 may also be fitted with a shutter, not shown in Figure 7 that may be movable relative to the container 28 between a shut position in which it closes communication between the duct and the container 28, and a dispensing position in which it reestablishes said communication.

In order to dispense the composition, the user may press on the flexible wall of the body of the container 28, after bringing the shutter head into its open position, thereby causing the solvent medium to flow via the internal duct(s) to the applicator member 10. After use, the applicator head is returned to its shut position.

In a variant embodiment, not shown, the applicator head 27 includes a hollow compartment, not shown, connected with the interior of said container 28. The applicator roller 10 can thus turn in said hollow compartment, be supplied with the solvent medium.

Clearly, different variant embodiments for the packaging and applicator devices that allow a controlled delivery of the solvent medium to the applicator member 10 may be considered.

In a variant embodiment shown in Figure 8, the solvent medium is in a container included within the handle 30. The solvent medium may flow through at least one of the arms 31 that include for example a duct, not shown, connecting the interior of said container of the handle 30 with the applicator member 10.

Examples of packaging and applicator devices allowing the delivery of a product from the container to the applicator member are described in the following documents: FR 2 623 476; US 673 960; US 7 153 053 and US 7 435 029. Analogous devices for applying paint are described in the patents US 3 702 739 and US 3 268 943.

In variant embodiments that are not shown, the applicator device 8 may be provided with a brake to brake or even prevent rotation of the applicator member 10 relative to the handle.

SOLID COMPOSITION and ASSOCIATED SOLVENT MEDIUM

Solid composition

In the context of the invention, a solid composition may be characterized by a hardness value.

Measurements of the hardness of a solid composition of the cast composition type may be carried out by penetration of a probe into the composition, in particular using a texture analyzer, for example ΤΑ-ΧΤ2Ϊ sold by the supplier RHEO, provided with a cylinder of ebonite 25 mm [millimeter] in height and 8 mm in diameter. The hardness measurements are carried out at 20°C at the center of five samples of the composition. The cylinder is introduced into each of the composition samples at an initial rate of 2 mm/s [millimeter per second] then at a rate of 0.5 mm/s and finally at a final rate of 2 mm/s, the total movement of the cylinder being 1 mm. The hardness value recorded is the maximum peak observed.

The hardness of a composition may be expressed in units of gram force (gf). Measurement error is ±50 gf.

Thus, in accordance with a particular implementation of the invention, in the method of the invention, solid compositions of the cast type may be used with a hardness lying in the range 20 gf to 2000 gf, in particular 20 gf to 900 gf, and more particularly 20 gf to 600 gf.

The hardness measurements on a solid composition of the compact powder type may be carried out on the composition, generally in a pan, using a Zwick type durometer. The protocol consists in manually lowering a lever to cause a moving body connected to a force measurement system to be lowered. When the entire surface of the moving body is in contact with the sample, the hardness value is read from the needle dial. That measurement is expressed on the Shore scale. The moving body is a metal needle 1 mm in diameter.

Thus, in a particular implementation of the invention, in the method of the invention it is possible to use solid compositions of the compact powder type with a hardness of 15 or more on the Shore scale.

In particular exemplary embodiments, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a compact powder or in the form of a cast powder.

The term "compact powder" means a mass of composition having cohesion that is at least partly associated with compacting during manufacture.

In particular exemplary embodiments, the solid composition of the invention may be a two-way cake type compact powder.

The term "cast composition" means a mass of composition having cohesion that is ensured by solidification of at least one of its constituents during use. The composition may be cast while hot and solidification results when it cools.

The cast composition may be in the anhydrous form or in the form of a solid emulsion. A solid emulsion does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature, in contrast to a conventional emulsion, and is primarily characterized by the presence of wax(es) in the liquid fatty phase.

A solid composition of the invention may be anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" as used in the context of the invention means that the composition contains less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and in particular no water, water not being added during preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

Formulations for solid compositions, in particular compact powders, two-way cakes or cast compositions, are known to the skilled person.

Clearly, the skilled person will be careful to select the ingredients and their quantities in a manner that satisfies the general properties required for makeup and/or care products (stability, wear, comfort, etc).

Associated solvent medium

Clearly, the solvent medium must be cosmetically or dermato logically acceptable, namely contained in a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and capable of being applied to the keratinous materials of human beings.

The term "cosmetically acceptable" as used in the context of the invention means a composition with agreeable appearance, odor, and feel.

Further, the solvent medium must be compatible with the solid composition that is to be taken.

Clearly, the nature of the solvent medium to be used in the method of the invention is linked to the nature of the solid composition and of the ingredients that constitute it (hydrophilic /hydrophobic active ingredients, hydrophilic /hydrophobic colorants, polymers capable of establishing H bonds, etc). The variant embodiments that follow illustrate appropriate solvent mediums for specific solid compositions in more detail.

The skilled person will be capable of selecting the nature of the solvent medium that is compatible with the solid composition to be applied, and appropriate for being taken and applied to a keratinous material, in particular the skin.

The solvent medium associated with the solid composition to be taken can in particular be an aqueous medium, comprising water and/or at least one solvent and/or hydrophilic or hydrosoluble compounds.

In particular, said aqueous medium comprises water. Water that is suitable for the invention may be may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water, and/or a spa water.

The aqueous medium may also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at ambient temperature -25°C), such as monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms in particular, preferably containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (in particular containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as (d-C₄) alkyl ethers of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, (C1 -C4) alkyl ethers of mono, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous medium may also include stabilization agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.

The solvent medium under consideration may also include any auxiliary compound compatible with the solvent phase under consideration, such as gelling agents, film- forming polymers, thickening agents, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

It may also in fact be a medium that can be described as an active ingredient in itself, in the manner of a serum.

Clearly, the skilled person will be careful to select any complementary compounds and/or their quantity in a manner such that the advantageous properties of the composition to be applied of the invention are altered little or not at all by the envisaged addition.

This (hydroalcoholic) aqueous medium is in particular suitable for use of the invention with:

• a solid composition comprising thickening agents capable of establishing H bonds, such as those described in more detail below; or

• a solid composition in the form of a compact powder of the two-way cake type;

• a solid composition comprising hydrophilically treated coloring materials and/or coloring materials encapsulated in microcapsules based on acrylate /ammonium methacrylate copolymers, and/or hydrophilic active ingredients (sensitive to or activatable in the presence of water), as described in more detail below. In accordance with another implementation, the associated solvent medium may be a non-aqueous medium, in particular an oily medium, in particular adapted to be used of the invention with a solid composition comprising hydrophobically treated coloring materials and/or lipophilic active ingredients.

The following paragraphs illustrate the advantages of employing the method of the invention in certain specific cases. Clearly, the present invention is not in any way limited to the various embodiments that are given below.

As discussed above, by extemporaneous use with an appropriate solvent medium, a method of the invention may advantageously favor the taking of solid compositions that incorporate compounds that can provide properties of interest, especially in terms of wear of the makeup, but that can simultaneously affect the taking properties of the composition, for example as regards the hardness achieved by the presence of such compounds.

Thus, a method of the invention proves to be more particularly advantageous with compositions that incorporate thickening or structuring agents, in particular polymers, that are capable of establishing intra- or inter-molecular hydrogen bonds.

Thickening agents capable of establishing H bonds

Such thickening agents are known for improving the wear properties of a makeup once applied to the keratinous material.

Thus, in accordance with a particular implementation, the solid composition of the invention may include at least one thickening agent comprising at least one group, preferably at least two groups, that are capable of establishing hydrogen interactions; in particular, they may be selected from polymeric thickening agents and organogelling agents.

In preferred exemplary embodiments, the thickening agent may be present in a solid composition of the invention in a total quantity:

^• in the range 0.05% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 0.5% to 50% by weight, and more preferably in the range 1% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, when it is selected from polymeric thickening agents; or ^• in the range 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular in the range 0.05% to 15% by weight, or even in the range 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably in the range 1% to 8% by weight, and still more preferably in the range 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, when it is selected from organogelling agents. a) Polymeric thickening agents

The polymeric thickening agents that may be used in the invention comprising at least one motif comprising at least one group, preferably at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions may belong to the following two families:

1) polymers comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, said two groups being located in the chain of the polymer; and /or

2) polymers comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, said two groups being located on grafts or branches.

The term "polymer" as used in the context of the invention means a compound with at least two repeat motifs, preferably at least 3 motifs, and more preferably 10 repeat motifs.

Preferably, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions may be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidine and biguanidine groups and combinations thereof.

Examples of polymeric thickening agents that may be used comprising at least one motif comprising at least one group, preferably at least two groups, capable of establishing hydrogen interactions that may be mentioned are:

i- silicone polyamide resins as described in the application EP-A-1 266 647, or in French patent application filed under the number 02 16039;

ii- polymers with a mass average molecular mass of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone containing hydrocarbon repeat motifs provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and/or at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally functionalized, containing 6 to 120 carbon atoms and bonded to said hydrocarbon motifs, such as those described in applications WO- A-02/056847 and WO-A-02/47619;

in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5 783 657; iii- organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one carboxyl group, and preferably organopolysiloxanes comprising at least two carboxyl groups per motif.

Such thickening agents are described in particular in application EP- A-l 400 234, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference and are described in more detail below.

i- Silicone-containing polyamide

In a first implementation of the invention, the polymeric thickening agent comprising groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds is a silicone-containing polyamide.

The silicone-containing polyamides are preferably solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg [millimeter of mercury]).

The silicone-containing polyamides of the composition of the invention may be polyorganosiloxane type polymers such as, for example, those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680. In the invention, the silicone-containing polymers may belong to the following two families:

(1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, said two groups being located in the chain of the polymer; and/or

(2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, said two groups being located on grafts or branches.

A) In a first variant, the silicone-containing polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above with amide motifs that are disposed in the chain of the polymer.

The silicone-containing polyamides may in particular be polymers comprising at least one motif with general formula I:

(I)

1) in which: G' represents C(O) when G represents -C(0)-NH-Y-NH-, and G' represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C(0)-Y-C(0)-; 2) R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ and R⁷, which may be identical or different, represent a group selected from:

• linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C₄o hydrocarbon groups that may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms in their chain, and that may be completely or partially substituted with fluorine atoms;

• C₆ to Cio aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more Ci to C₄ alkyl groups;

• polyorganosiloxane chains that may optionally contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms;

3) the X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci to C₃₀ alkylene diyl group that may contain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms in its chain;

4) Y is a divalent saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci to C50 alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, which may include one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or carry one or more of the following atoms or groups of atoms as substituents: fluorine, hydroxy, C₃ to Cs cycloalkyl, Ci to C₄o alkyl, C₅ to Cio aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 Ci to C₃ alkyl groups, Ci to C₃ hydroxyalkyl groups and Ci to C₆ aminoalkyl groups; or

5) Y re resents a group with formula:

in which

• T represents a trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C₂₄ hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and that may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al; and

• R⁸ represents a linear or branched Ci to C50, alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups that may optionally be bonded to another chain of the polymer; 6) n is an integer in the range 2 to 500, preferably in the range 2 to 200, and m is an integer in the range 1 to 1000, preferably in the range 1 to 700 and still more preferably in the range 6 to 200.

In an embodiment of the invention, 80 % of R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ and R⁷ groups of the polymer are preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. In another embodiment, 80% of R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ and R⁷ groups of the polymer are methyl groups.

In accordance with the invention, Y may represent various divalent groups, optionally further comprising one or two free valencies in order to establish bonds with other motifs of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group selected from:

a) linear Ci to C₂o alkylene groups, preferably Ci to Cio;

b) branched alkylene groups that may include cycles and unconjugated C₃₀ to C56 unsaturated bonds;

c) C5-C6 cycloalkylene groups;

d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more Ci to C40 alkyl groups;

e) Ci to C₂o alkylene groups containing 1 to 5 amide groups;

f) Ci to C₂o alkylene groups including one or more substituents selected from hydroxy, C₃ to Cs cycloalkane, Ci to C3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to C₆ alkylamine groups;

g) polyorganosiloxane chains with formula:

in which R⁴, R⁵, R⁶, R⁷, T and m are as defined above.

B) In a second variant, the silicone-containing polyamides may be polymers comprising at least one motif with formula (II):

(Π)

in which

• R⁴ and R⁶, which may be identical or different, are as defined above for formula (I);

• R¹⁰ represents a group as defined above for R⁴ and R⁶, or represents the group with formula -X-G"-R¹² in which X is as defined above for formula (I) and R¹² represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C50 hydrocarbon group optionally including one or more atoms selected from O, S and N in its chain, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more hydroxy groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more Ci to C₄ alkyl groups; and

G" represents— C(0)NH- and -HN-C(O)-;

R¹¹ represents the group with formula -X-G"-R¹² in which X, G" and R¹² are as defined above;

• mi is an integer in the range 1 to 998; and

• m₂ is an integer in the range 2 to 500. In the invention, the silicone-containing polymer may be a homopolymer, i.e. a polymer comprising several identical motifs, in particular motifs with formula (I) or with formula (II).

In the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer constituted by a copolymer comprising several different motifs with formula (I), i.e. a polymer in which at least one of R⁴, R⁵, R⁶, R⁷, X, G, Y, m and n is different in one of the motifs. The copolymer may also be formed by several motifs with formula (II), in which at least one ofR⁴, R⁶, R¹⁰, Rⁿ, _mi and m₂ is different in at least one of the motifs.

It is also possible to use a polymer comprising at least one motif with formula (I) and at least one motif with formula (II), the motifs with formula (I) and the motifs with formula (II) possibly being identical to or different from one another.

In a variant of the invention, it is also possible to use a silicone-containing polyamide further comprising at least one hydrocarbon motif comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidine and biguanidine groups and combinations thereof.

These copolymers may be block or sequence or graft polymers.

In formulae (I) and (II), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain at least one of the following elements in its alkylene portion:

1) 1 to 5 amide, urea, urethane, or carbamate groups;

2) a C₅ or C₆ cycloalkyl group; and

3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl groups identical or different Ci to C₃ groups.

In formulae (I) and (II), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one element selected from the group constituted by:

• a hydroxy group;

• a C₃ to Cs cycloalkyl group;

• one to three Ci to C₄o alkyl groups;

• a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three Ci to C₃ alkyl groups; · a Ci to C₃ hydroxy alkyl group; and

• a Ci to C₆ aminoalkyl group.

In these formulae (I) and (II), Y may also represent:

where R represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group with formula:

13

R

-(CH₂)_; X (CH₂)_b

(CH₂)_C or

■(CH₂)_; _N . (CH₂)_b _-

(CH₂)_C

in which a, b and c are independently integers in the range 1 to 10, and R¹³ is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ and R⁷.

In formulae (I) and (II), R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ and R⁷ preferably independently represent a linear or branched Ci to C₄o alkyl group, preferably a CH₃, C₂H₅, n-C₃H₇ or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.

As mentioned above, the polymer may include identical or different motifs with formula (I) or (II).

Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several motifs with formula (I) or (II) of different lengths, i.e. a polyamide with formula (III):

(ΠΙ)

in which X, Y, n, R⁴ to R⁷ have the meanings given above, mi and m₂, which are different, are selected to be in the range 1 to 1000, and p is an integer in the range 2 to 300.

In this formula, the motifs may be structured to form either a block copolymer or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the motifs may not only have different lengths but also different chemical structures, for example with different Y motifs. The polymer may then have formula IV:

(IV) in which R⁴ to R⁷, X, Y, mi , m₂, n and p have the meanings given above and Y¹ is different from Y but selected from the groups defined for Y. As before, the various motifs may be structured to form either a block copolymer or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.

In these first exemplary embodiments of the invention, the silicone-containing polymer may also be constituted by a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units may be a graft polymer, optionally cross-linked with silicone chains having amide groups. Such polymers may be synthesized with trifunctional amines.

In the invention, as mentioned above, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in graft or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendant or graft chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.

In variant exemplary embodiments of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer of silicone polyamide and hydrocarbon polyamide, i.e. a copolymer comprising motifs with formula (I) or (II) and hydrocarbon polyamide motifs. The polyamide-silicone motifs may then be disposed at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide. Advantageously, the composition comprises at least one polyamide

/polydimethylsiloxane polymer, especially a polymer with general formula (I) with an index m with a value of more than 50, in particular more than 75, especially approximately 100.

Advantageously, the silicone polyamide with formula (I) has a mass average molecular mass in the range 10000 g/mol to 500,000 g/mol.

More preferably, X and Y independently represent a group selected from linear Ci to C₂o alkylene groups, preferably Ci to Cio.

Examples of polymers that may be used and may be mentioned are one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US- A-5 981 680, such as the composition sold in particular under the reference DC 2-8179 by Dow Corning.

In variant exemplary embodiments of the invention, the polymer is constituted by a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups. These polymers are described in detail in the document WO 2003/106614.

In another particular implementation, a composition of the invention may contain a polyorganosiloxane polymer containing two or more urethane and/or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer, or on the side chains or as pendant groups.

The polymers comprising at least two urethane and/or urea groups in the backbone may be polymers comprising at least one motif with the following formula:

in which R⁴, R⁵, R⁶, R⁷, X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (I), and U represents -O- or -NH-, such that:

U- C NH

O

corresponds to a urethane or urea group. In this formula, Y may be a linear or branched Ci to C40 alkylene group, optionally substituted with a Ci to C15 alkyl group or a C₅ to C10 aryl group. Preferably, a -(CH₂)6- group is used.

The polymer constituting the silicone-containing polymer may be formed by silicone-urethane and/or silicone-urea motifs with different lengths and/or constitutions, and in the form of block or sequence copolymers or random (statistical) copolymers.

As with the silicone polyamides with formula (I), (II) or (III), in the invention it is possible to use polyurethanes or silicone polyureas with different lengths and structures, in particular motifs with different lengths due to the number of silicone units.

The polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state in the range 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state in the range 70°C to 130°C, more preferably in the range 80°C to 105°C.

The silicone-containing polyamide may be present in a composition of the invention in a total quantity in the range 0.5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 5%> to 50%> by weight, and more preferably in the range 8% to 45% by weight, preferably in the range 10% to 40% by weight of the total composition weight.

ii- In another particular embodiment, the polymeric structuring agent comprising groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds is a polymer with a mass average molecular mass of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon repeat motifs provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and/or at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally functionalized, containing 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to said hydrocarbon motifs; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms).

Such a structuring polymer for the composition is a non-deformable solid at ambient temperature (25°C). It is capable of structuring the composition without rendering it opaque. The term "functionalized chains" in the context of the invention means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reactive groups, in particular selected from hydroxy, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, halogen, including fluorinated or perfluorinated groups, ester, siloxane or polysiloxane groups. Further, the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains may be at least partially substituted with fluorine atoms.

The term "hydrocarbon repeat motifs", as used in the context of the invention means a motif containing 2 to 80 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 60 carbon atoms, carrying hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms; it may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. Said motifs further comprise each of one or more heteroatoms, which are advantageously not pendant and are in the polymeric backbone. Said heteroatoms are selected from nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms and combinations thereof, possibly associated with one or more oxygen atoms. Preferably, the motifs comprise at least one nitrogen atom, in particular non pendant. Said motifs advantageously also include a carbonyl group.

The motifs with a heteroatom are in particular amide motifs forming a polyamide type backbone, or carbamate and/or urea motifs forming a polyurethane, polyurea and/or polyurea-urethane backbone. Preferably, said motifs are amide motifs. Advantageously, the pendant chains are bonded directly to at least one of the heteroatoms of the polymeric backbone.

This polymer may comprise silicone motifs or oxyalkylene motifs between the hydrocarbon motifs.

Further, said polymer of the composition of the invention advantageously comprises in the range 40% to 98% of fatty chains relative to the total number of heteroatom-containing motifs and fatty chains, more preferably in the range 50% to 95%. The nature and proportion of the heteroatom-containing motifs is a function of the nature of the fatty phase and is in particular similar to the polar nature of the fatty phase. Thus, the more polar the heteroatom motifs and if they are in a high proportion in that polymer, which corresponds to the presence of several heteroatoms, the greater the affinity of that polymer with polar oils. In contrast, the less polar the heteroatom containing motifs or even if they are apolar or in small proportions, the greater the affinity of that polymer for apolar oils.

This polymer is advantageously a polyamide. Thus, in a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition contains, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyamide polymer with a mass average molecular mass of less than 100,000 comprising a) a polymeric backbone, containing amide repeat motifs, and b) optionally, at least one pendant fatty chain and/or at least one terminal chain that may be functionalized, containing 8 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to said amide motifs.

Preferably, the pendant chains are bonded to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide motifs of said polymer.

In particular, the fatty chains of said polyamide represent 40% to 98% of the total number of amide motifs and fatty chains, more preferably 50% to 95%.

Advantageously, said polymer, in particular said polyamide, of the composition of the invention has a mass average molecular mass of less than 100,000 (in particular in the range 1000 to 100,000), in particular less than 50,000 (especially in the range 1000 to 50,000), and more particularly in the range 1000 to 30,000, preferably 2000 to 20,000, and more preferably in the range 2000 to 10,000.

This polymer, in particular this polyamide, is non- soluble in water, in particular at 25°C. In particular, it does not include an ionic group.

Preferred polymers that may be used of the invention and that may be mentioned are polyamides branched with pendant fatty chains and/or terminal fatty chains containing 6 to 120 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 120 and in particular 12 to 68 carbon atoms, each terminal fatty chain being bonded to the polyamide backbone via at least one bonding group, in particular an ester. Preferably, said polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymeric backbone and in particular of the polyamide backbone. Other bonding groups that may be mentioned are ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thiourea and thiourethane groups.

Said polymers are preferably polymers resulting from poly condensation between a carboxylic diacid containing at least 32 carbon atoms (especially containing 32 to 44 carbon atoms) with an amine selected from diamines containing at least 2 carbon atoms (especially 2 to 36 carbon atoms) and triamines containing at least 2 carbon atoms (especially 2 to 36 carbon atoms). The diacid is preferably a dimer derived from a fatty acid with an ethylenically unsaturated bond containing at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably ethylene diamine, hexylene diamine or hexamethylene diamine. The triamine is ethylene triamine, for example. For polymers comprising one or two terminal carboxylic acid groups, it is advantageous to esterify them with a monoalcohol containing at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 36 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 and still more preferably 16 to 24, for example 18 carbon atoms.

More particularly, these polymers are those described in the document US- A-5 783 657 from the supplier Union Camp. In particular, each of these polymers has the following formula (I):

in which n designates an integer of amide motifs such that the number of ester groups represents in the range 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; each Ri is independently an alkyl or alkenyl group containing at least 4 carbon atoms, in particular 4 to 24 carbon atoms; each R₂ independently represents a C₄ to C₄₂ hydrocarbon group provided that 50%> of the R₂ groups represent a C30 to C₄₂ hydrocarbon group; each R3 independently represents an organic group provided with at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and each R₄ independently represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci to C₁₀ alkyl group or a direct bond to R3 or to another R₄ such that the nitrogen atom to which both R3 and R₄ are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R₄-N-R3, with at least 50% of the R₄ groups representing a hydrogen atom.

In the particular case of formula (I), the terminal fatty chains, optionally functionalized in the context of the invention, are terminal chains bonded to the last heteroatom, in this case nitrogen, of the polyamide backbone.

In particular, ester groups with formula (I), which form part of the terminal and/or pendant chains in the context of the invention, represent in the range 15% to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups, more preferably in the range 20% to 35%. Furthermore, n advantageously represents an integer in the range 1 to 5 and more preferably more than 2. Preferably, Ri is a C₁₂ to C₂₂ alkyl group, preferably C₁₆ to C₂₂. Advantageously, R₂ is a C₁₀ to C₄₂ hydrocarbon group (alkylene). Preferably, at least 50% and more preferably at least 75% of the R₂ motifs are groups containing 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R₂ motifs are C₄ to C19 or even C₄ to C₁₂ hydrogenated groups. Preferably, R3 represents a C₂ to C36 hydrocarbon group or a polyoxyalkylenated group and R4 represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R3 represents a C₂ to C₁₂ hydrocarbon group.

The hydrocarbon groups may be linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups. Further, the alkyl and alkylene groups may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups.

In general, the polymers with formula (I) are in the form of mixtures of polymers; these mixtures may further contain a synthesized composition corresponding to a compound with formula (I) where n is 0, i.e. a diester.

Examples of polymers that may be used in a composition of the invention and that may be mentioned are the commercial compositions sold by the supplier Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. They are respectively sold in the form of an 80% (of active substance) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (of active substance) gel. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C. Those commercial products are a mixture of copolymers of a C36 diacid condensed onto ethylene diamine, with a mass average molecular mass of approximately 6000. The terminal ester groups result from esterification of the remaining acid terminals with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol may also be mentioned).

Examples of polymers that may be used in a composition of the invention that may also be mentioned are polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds containing more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amine groups), the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent unitary motifs being condensed by an amide bond. These polyamide resins are in particular those sold under the trade name Versamid® by the suppliers General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, to 744 or 1655) or by the supplier Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp., under the trade name Onamid^® in particular Onamid S or C. Those resins have a mass average molecular mass in the range 6000 to 9000. For more information regarding those polyamides, reference should be made to the documents US-A-3 645705 and US- A-3 148 125. More particularly, Versamid^® 930 or 744 is used.

It is also possible to use the polyamides sold by the supplier Arizona Chemical under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 by the supplier Henkel. For more information on those polyamides, reference should be made to the document US-A-5 500 209.

It is also possible to use polyamide resins derived from vegetables, such as those described in patents US-A-5 783 657 and US-A-5 998 570.

The polymer present in the composition of the invention advantageously has a softening temperature of more than 65°C and may be up to 190°C. Preferably, it has a softening temperature in the range 70°C to 130°C and more preferably in the range 80°C to 105°C. In particular, it is a non-waxy polymer.

This polymer may be present in the composition of the invention in a quantity in the range 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably in the range 0.1% to 15%) by weight.

iii- Organopolysiloxane polymers with carboxyl groups

In other exemplary embodiments of the invention, the polymeric structuring agent comprising groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds is an organopolysiloxane comprising at least one carboxyl group.

Particular mention may be made of those described in applications WO 2008/046762 and WO 2005/063856.

The organopolysiloxane with a carboxyl group may be present in a composition of the invention in a total quantity in the range 0.05% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 0.5% to 50% by weight, and more preferably in the range 1% to 45% by weight, preferably in the range 2% to 20% by weight of the total composition weight. b) Or ano elling agents

In other particular exemplary embodiments, the thickening agent comprising groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds is non-polymeric.

In these exemplary embodiments, the non-polymeric thickening agent is preferably an organogelling agent.

Organogelling agents are thickening agents for oily mediums, and in particular non-polymeric molecular organic gelling agents. The organogelling agents are compounds with molecules that are capable of establishing physical interactions between them, in particular H bonds in the context of the present invention, leading to self-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a supra-molecular 3D network that is responsible for gelling of the oil(s) (also termed the liquid fatty phase).

The supra-molecular network may result from the formation of a network of fibrils (due to stacking or aggregation of molecules of the organogelling agent), immobilizing the molecules of the liquid fatty phase.

The ability to form this network of fibrils, and thus to form a gel, depends on the nature (or chemical class) of the organogelling agent, the nature of the substituents carried by its molecules for a given chemical class and the nature of the liquid fatty phase.

The physical interactions are diverse but exclude co-crystallization. These physical interactions are in particular interactions of the self-complementary hydrogen interaction type. Other types of interactions may also be involved, such as π interactions between unsaturated rings, dipolar interactions, coordination bonds with the organometallic derivatives and combinations thereof. In general, each molecule of an organogelling agent may establish several types of physical interaction with a neighboring molecule.

The organogelling agent molecules of the invention may comprise at least one group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, and preferably at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, at least one aromatic ring and more preferably at least two aromatic rings, at least one or more ethylenically unsaturated bonds and/or at least one or more asymmetric carbons. Preferably, the groups that are capable of forming hydrogen bonds are selected from hydroxy, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, urea, benzyl groups and combinations thereof.

The molecular organogelling agent or organogelling agents that may be used in the composition of the invention are in particular those described in the document "Specialist Surfactants", edited by D. Robb, 1997, p.209-263, chapter 8, P. Terech, European patent applications EP-A-1 068 854 and EP-A-1 086 945, or in application WO-A-02/47031.

It is also possible to mention organogelling agents such as carboxylic acid amides, in particular tricarboxylic acids such as cyclohexanetricarboxamides (see application EP-A-1 068 854), diamides with hydrocarbon chains each containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example 6 to 18 carbon atoms, said chains being substituted or unsubstituted with at least one substituent selected from ester, urea and fluoro groups (see application EP-A-1 086 945) and in particular diamides resulting from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, in particular diaminocyclohexane in the trans form, and an acid chloride such as Ν,Ν'-bis (dodecanoyl)-l ,2-diaminocyclohexane, for example, amides of N-acylamino acids such as the diamides resulting from the action of a N-acylamino acid with amines containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms such as, for example, those described in the document WO-93/23008 and in particular amides of N-acylglutamic acid where the acyl group represents a Cs to C₂₂ alkyl chain, such as the dibutylamide of N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid, manufactured or sold by the supplier Ajinomoto under the name GP-1 , and mixtures thereof.

In particular exemplary embodiments, the thickening agent used in the composition of the invention is an organogelling agent of the bis-urea type.

In particular, the organogelling agent of the bis urea type may be selected from:

· bis-urea derivatives with general formula (I):

in which:

• A is a group with formula:

with R being a linear or branched Ci to C₄ alkyl radical and * symbolizing the attachment points for group A to each of the two nitrogen atoms of the residue of the compound with general formula (I); and

• R is a mono-branched, non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C₆ to C15 alkyl radical, and in which the hydrocarbon chain is optionally interrupted by 1 to 3 heteroatoms selected from O, S and N, or one of its salts or isomers, in particular as described in patent application FR-A-2 892 303; • silicone-containing bis-urea derivatives thereof with general formula (I) of their salts and/or isomers:

O O

N N N N

I I I I (I)

H H H H

in which:

• A is a group with formula (II):

with Ri being a linear or branched Ci to C₄ alkyl radical, and * symbolizing the attachment points for group A to each of the two nitrogen atoms of the residue of the compound with general formula (I); and

· R and R, which may be identical or different, are selected from:

• i) radicals with formula (III):

— L-Si-OR_a (III)

R_c

in which:

• L is a single bond or a divalent carbon-containing radical, especially linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, hydrocarbon (alkylene) containing 1 to

18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms selected from N, O and S;

a) a carbon-containing radical, in particular linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon (alkyl) containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from N, O, Si and S; or

b) a silicone-containing radical with formula:

with n being in the range 0 to 100, in particular in the range 1 to 80, or even 2 to 20; and

• R₂ to R6, independently of each other, being carbon-containing radicals, in particular linear or branched hydrocarbon (alkyls) containing 1 to 12, in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms, in particular O;

• R_b and R_c, independently of each other, are selected from:

a) carbon-containing radicals, in particular linear, branched and/or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon (alkyls) containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms selected from N, O, Si and S;

b) radicals with formula:

· R₂ to R'₆ independently of each other being carbon-containing radicals, in particular linear or branched hydrocarbon (alkyls) containing 1 to 12, in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms, in particular O; and

• ii) linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C30 alkyl radicals and optionally comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms selected from O, S, F and N;

it being understood that at least one of radicals R and/or R has formula (III), such as those described in patent application FR-A-2 900 819.

• bis-urea derivatives described in patent application FR-A-2 8994476.

Preferably, the bis-urea type organogelling agent is silicone-containing.

Thus, the compositions of the invention may comprise in the range 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular in the range 0.05% to 15% by weight, or even in the range 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably in the range 1% to 8% by weight, and still more preferably in the range 2% to 5% by weight, of organogelling agents, such as bis-urea compounds, for example, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Clearly, this effective quantity can be varied significantly depending, inter alia, on the nature of the bis-urea derivative compound, the fact that it is used in the pure state or as a mixture with other bis-urea derivatives, and the nature of the liquid fatty phase.

The mixture of bis-ureas is advantageously soluble at a temperature of 50°C or less, or even 30°C or less, and in particular at ambient temperature in the liquid fatty phase to be texturized.

In particular exemplary embodiments, a composition of the invention comprises at least one silicone-containing polyamide such as the Nylon 611 /dimethicone copolymer which, incorporated into a composition, introduces advantageous properties to the resulting film in terms of wear.

Example of Nylon 611 /dimethicone copolymer that may be used is the product sold under the reference DOW CORNING 2-8179 GELLANT by Dow Corning.

The presence of these thickening agents or structuring agents, especially polymeric agents that are capable of establishing hydrogen bonds results in a highly cohesive system that may prove to be unsuitable for taking and/or application.

A solid composition incorporating such thickening agents or structuring agents, especially polymeric agents, may be taken and applied effectively by using the method of the invention, by bringing the application surface of the applicator member of the invention into contact with at least one solvent medium that is capable of breaking the H bonds existing within the cohesive system, in particular a polymeric system.

Such a solvent may be selected from volatile alcohols, in particular lower monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol or isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

By rupturing the H bonds existing in the polymeric system, the alcohol may render the composition less cohesive, thereby favoring taking and smoothing of the composition using the applicator of the invention. The applicator device of the invention can be used to produce a uniform deposit.

After evaporation of the alcohol, drying of the deposit on the keratinous material results in a film presenting properties that are advantageous as regards wear. In a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may include, in addition to the thickening agent capable of establishing H bonds, at least one silicone resin.

The presence of a silicone resin makes it possible to improve the wear properties of the makeup deposit on keratinous material.

Silicone resins that are in general soluble or swell in silicone oils are cross linked polymers of organopolysiloxanes. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters M, D, T and Q characterizing a type of unit.

Examples of commercially available silicone resins that may be mentioned are those sold under the names Resin MK by Wacker such as Belsil PMS MK, and by SHIN ETSU under the reference KR-220L.

Examples of siloxy-silicate resins that may be mentioned are those sold under the reference SRI 000 by General Electric and under the reference TMS 803 by Wacker.

In other particular embodiments, a composition of the invention may include, in addition to the thickening agent capable of establishing H bonds, at least one other thickening agent.

The thickening agent can be chosen from:

- organomodified clays, which are clays treated with compounds chosen in particular from quaternary amines or tertiary amines. Mention may be made, as organomodified clays, of organomodified bentonites, such as those sold under the name "Bentone 34" by Rheox, or organomodified hectorites, such as those sold under the name "Bentone 27" or "Bentone 38" by Rheox.

- hydrophobic pyrogenic silica. Such silicas are sold, for example, under the references "Aerosil R812 " by Degussa and "Cab-O-Sil TS-530 by Cabot and under the references "Aerosil R972^®" and "Aerosil R974^®" by Degussa and "Cab-O-Sil TS-610^®" and "Cab-O-Sil TS-720^®" by Cabot.

Examples of thickening agents that may be mentioned are Disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate such as the product sold under the reference BENTONE GEL ISD V by Elementis. The thickening agent for the fatty phase can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total composition.

In particular exemplary embodiments, a composition of the invention is of cast type. In particular, a composition of cast type according to the invention may include at least one thickening agent capable of establishing H bonds, in particular of silicone polyamide type, and at least one silicone resin.

More generally, the method of the invention may favor taking and application of solid compositions endowed with advantageous mechanical properties, especially high hardness and cohesion, but that are unsuitable for being taken by usual means such as sponges or brushes.

Impregnation of the application surface of the applicator member and/or the solid composition with a solvent medium prior to or simultaneously with taking the composition may render the surface of the cake of solid composition less compact and suitable for enabling a sufficient quantity of composition to be taken for the purposes of making up.

Further, the composition that has been taken may be endowed with a consistency that is better suited to allowing easy smoothing during application, thereby leading to a greater uniformity of the deposit and thus to an improved final makeup effect.

Similarly, as discussed above, a method of the invention may also benefit from certain compounds that provide properties of interest, especially in terms of the makeup and/or care effect, when they are used in a certain solvent medium. These are generally termed compounds that are "sensitive to" or "activatable in" a given solvent medium.

In other words, using the method of the invention to bring an active ingredient, which can be activated in a specific solvent medium and which is present in the solid composition of the invention, extemporaneously into contact with the associated solvent medium, for example water, at the moment it is being taken with the applicator member of the invention, may enable certain advantageous effects and/or properties of said active ingredient to be revealed.

In other variant exemplary embodiments, the method of the invention may also enable advantage to be taken of certain compounds that can provide properties of interest, especially in terms of the makeup and/or care effect, but that are incompatible as regards a cosmetic formulation, e.g. due to incompatibility with one of the other associated active ingredients, or else due to a lack of stability on prolonged contact with the solvent medium under consideration for the cosmetic formulation. In the method of the invention, these active ingredients may be used in the solid composition in a modified form that preserves them from any premature degradation, which form, on coming into contact with the solvent medium, is destroyed so as to restore the active ingredient proper.

Compounds that can be activated in a solvent medium

The particular embodiments of the invention that are described below do not in any way limit the method of the invention.

Hydrophilic active ingredients carried in an anhydrous medium

In particular exemplary embodiments, the method of the invention may prove to be advantageous as regards using a solid composition, in particular an anhydrous composition, of hydrophilic active ingredients that are unstable in a solvent medium.

These hydrophilic active ingredients may be solvated and/or dispersed in the associated solvent medium in the method of the invention, in particular an aqueous medium, in an extemporaneous manner when taking the composition.

More particularly, a hydrophilic active ingredient that may be used of the invention may be a hydrosoluble or hydrodispersible molecule having cosmetic or dermatological activity.

Examples that may be mentioned are:

• radical scavengers and/or detoxification agents such as ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, for example magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, cysteine derivatives such as N-acetylcysteine, proteins and enzymes, for example superoxide dismutase (SOD), peroxidases such as lactoperoxidase and lactoferrin, catalase, proteases such as subtillisin or papain, lipases, uricase, peptides and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and cytochrome C;

• keratolytic agents such as a-hydroxyacids, a-hydroxyacids and a-ketoacids such as salicylic acid, and derivatives thereof;

· tanning accelerators, such as tyrosine derivatives;

• depigmenting active ingredients such as kojic acid, arbutin and derivatives thereof; • UV screens such as screens with a sulfonic acid function, in particular 2- phenylbenzimidazole-5 -sulfonic acid, sulisobenzone or benzene- l,4-di(3-methylidene- 10- camphosulfonic) acid;

• self-tanning active ingredients such as dihydroxyacetone or indoles; · liporegulators such as caffeine and theophylline;

• moisturizing agents such as sorbitol, xylitol, urea or plant DNA;

• optical brighteners such as stilbene derivatives, and colorants such as sodium salts of tartrazine;

• natural colorants such as chlorophyllin, cochineal carmine or caramel; and · mixtures of these principle active ingredients.

Particular examples of an unstable cosmetic or dermatological hydrophilic active principle that may be mentioned are ascorbic acid and its salts, in particular salts of sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium.

More particularly, the following may be mentioned:

· derivatives of C-glycosides.

A C-glycoside derivative may provide a composition of the invention with anti-ageing care properties, in particular by exerting an effect of hydration of the skin and by filling wrinkles over a long period of time.

A C-glycoside derivative of the invention may have the following general formula (I):

S'^X-R _(I)

in which:

• R represents a linear, saturated C₁-C₂₀ alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl radical, in particular, C₂-C₁₀, or unsaturated C₂-C₂₀, in particular, C₃-C₁₀, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C₃-C₂₀, in particular, C₄-C₁₀, a phenyl or benzyl radical:

• said radical optionally being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, and silicon; and

optionally being substituted with at least one radical selected from -ORi, -SRi, -NR₁R₂, - COORi, -CONHRi, -CN, a halogen atom, a Ci-C₆ perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl radical, a C₃-C8 cycloalkyl or heterocyclic radical or a C₆-Cio aryl radical, optionally substituted; where Ri and R₂ may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy radical, a linear, saturated, C₁-C30 alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydro fluoro alky 1 radical, in particular, C₂-C₁₂, or unsaturated C₂-C₃o, in particular C₃-Ci₂ or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C₃-C₃o, in particular C₄-C₁₂, or a C₆-Cio aryl radical;

· X represents a radical selected from: -C(O)-, -CH(NR₃R₄)-, -CHR₅-,

-C(=CHR₅)-, with R₃, R₄ and R₅, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy radical or a radical R, as defined above;

• S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide with up to 20 units of sugar, in the pyranose and/or furanose form, and of the L and/or D series;

· the S-CH₂-X linkage represents a C-anomeric type linkage, especially of type a or β, and more particularly type β; and

physiologically acceptable salts thereof, and its optical and/or geometric isomers, alone or as a mixture.

The optical and/or geometric isomers, as well as physiologically acceptable salts, of the C-glycoside derivatives with formula (I) may be used alone or as a mixture in any proportion.

A C-glycoside derivative of the invention may in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in the document WO 02/051828.

The C-glycoside derivative salts of the invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

Examples of salts of mineral acids that may be mentioned are sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. It is also possible to mention salts of organic acids that may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxy groups. The following may in particular be mentioned: propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartric acid.

A C-glycoside derivative of the invention may in particular be hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, also termed C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy propane, sold in particular in 30% by weight solution in a water /propylene glycol 60/40 (v/v) mixture under the trade name Mexoryl SBB^®.

• HEPES

HEPES or 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazin-l-ethanesulfonic acid is advantageously used as a peeling agent. It exerts its effect by acting on enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases or "stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme" (SCCE);

• Hydroxyalkylurea derivatives:

A hydroxyalkylurea derivative that can be used in the solid composition of the invention may have the following formula (I):

R i R₄

N CO N

R₂ R₃

in which:

• Pvi , P 2, P 3 and P each represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group that may contain 1 to 5 hydroxy groups and where at least radicals Ri to R4 represent a hydroxyalkyl group; and

salts thereof and isomers thereof.

Examples of salts include salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. It is also possible to mention salts of organic acids that may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or aromatic acids. These acids may further comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxy groups. The following may in particular be mentioned: propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartric acid.

Examples of hydroxyalkylurea derivatives of the invention that may be mentioned are N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea; N-(2-hydroxypropyl)-urea; N-(3-hydroxypropyl)- urea; N-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)-urea; N-(2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexyl)-urea; N-methyl-N- ( 1 ,3 ,4,5 ,6-pentahydroxy-2-hexyl)-urea; N-methyl-N'-( 1 -hydroxy-2-methyl-2-propyl)-urea; N-(l-hydroxy-2-methyl-2-propyl)-urea; N-(l ,3-dihydroxy-2-propyl)-urea; N-(tris- hydroxymethyl-methyl)-urea; N-ethyl-N'-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea; N,N-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)-urea; N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea; N,N-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-urea; N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-urea; N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N'-propyl-urea; N,N-bis-(2- hydroxypropyl)-N'-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea; N-tert-butyl-N'-(2-(hydroxyethyl)-N'-(2- (hydroxypropyl)-urea; N-(l ,3-dihydroxy-2-propyl)-N'-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea; N,N-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)-N',N'-dimethyl-urea; N,N,N',N'-tetrakis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea; N',N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl)-N',N'-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-urea; and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the hydroxyalkylurea derivative is N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea.

Derivatives of hydroxyalkylurea of the invention are also described in application DE-A-2 703 185. Of those, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-urea is also commercially available in the form of a 50% by weight mixture in water from the supplier NATIONAL STARCH under the trade name Hydrovance^®.

• hydrophilic salicylic acid derivatives.

Anti-wrinkle active ingredients

In other particular exemplary embodiments, the method of the invention may prove to be particularly advantageous for the use of anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as adenosine or non-phosphated derivatives thereof.

Adenosine is an active ingredient that is known for its anti-wrinkle activity and more particularly, it is important for targeting deep-set wrinkles. It is available in the form of a powder and may advantageously be formulated in solid compositions of the compact powder or two-way cake type.

However, adenosine has the peculiarity of swelling when it is brought into contact with water, which thus renders its transport into the wrinkles impossible.

When taking the powder comprising adenosine or one of its derivatives using a pre-wetted applicator, the method of the invention can advantageously allow this anti- wrinkle active ingredient to be brought into contact extemporaneously with water just before application, thus allowing its activation during application of the composition to the skin, and thereby effectively filling the wrinkles.

Clearly, other anti-wrinkle active ingredients may be used according to the invention. It may, for example, be retinol, nicotinic acid and/or ubiquinone, or even other derivatives of salicylic acid, such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid. Coloring materials

In another variant, the invention makes it possible to implement coloring materials that are "sensitive to" or "activatable with" with a specific solvent medium.

The term "activatable" coloring materials is intended, for example, to designate coloring materials that may be activated to develop a certain color through bringing them into contact with a specific solvent medium.

In this implementation, the coloring effect of the coloring materials is not perceptible in a solid anhydrous composition in its packaging. The composition in its packaging may have any color, for example white or gray, or any other color linked to the coloration of the other compounds present in the solid composition.

When these coloring materials are brought into contact with said solvent medium, being dispersed and/or dissolved in said solvent medium, when implementing the method of the invention, the composition, once applied to the skin, reveals a coloration that is distinct from what it had in its packaging before activation of the coloring materials. This novel coloration advantageously matches the natural tint of the skin.

This activation of the coloring materials may also be partially exacerbated, for example, by mechanical pressure exerted by the applicator on application of the composition onto the keratinous material, or by variations in the pH or in the temperature prevailing during application of the composition to the skin.

These coloring materials may be selected from organic or mineral pigments that may optionally be hydrosoluble.

Examples of organic pigments that may be used in the invention and that may be mentioned are carbon black, D & C type pigments, lakes based on carmine and cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in the documents EP-A-0 542 669, EP-A-0 787 730, EP-A-0 787 731 and WO-A- 96/08537.

Examples of mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated, oxides of zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, or copper powder.

In particularly preferred exemplary embodiments, the pigment is selected from oxides of iron, titanium oxide, ultramarine blue and mixtures thereof. The pigments may have a size in the range 35 μιη [micrometer] to 200 μιη, in particular in the range 40 μιη to 100 μιη. The pigments of the invention may also have a size in the range 0.05 μιη to 34 μιη, preferably in the range 0.1 μιη to 25 μιη, more particularly in the range 1 μιη to 25 μιη and preferably in the range 1 μιη to 15 μιη in diameter.

In other variant exemplary embodiments, the coloring materials that are "activatable" with a specific solvent medium may be treated so as to endow them with a sensitivity to said solvent medium. It is generally a specific coating that can render them soluble or dispersible in said solvent medium.

Thus, the coloring materials may be completely or partially surface treated with a hydrophobic agent to facilitate their dispersion in an oily solvent.

The surface treated coloring material may be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature that are well known to the skilled person. It is also possible to use commercially available products.

The surface agent may be absorbed or adsorbed onto the coloring materials by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

In variant exemplary embodiments, the surface treatment consists in coating the coloring materials.

The coating may represent 1% to 300% by weight of the weight of the untreated coloring materials, for example 5% to 200%, in particular 10% to 100% by weight of the weight of the untreated coloring materials.

The coating may represent 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated coloring material.

The coloring materials may be completely or partially surface treated with a compound of a fluorinated nature.

The fluorinated surface agents may be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE) and perfluoroalkanes.

Perfluoropolyethers are in particular described in patent application EP- A-0 486 135, and sold under the FOMBLIN trade names by the supplier MONTEFLUOS. Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in the application JP H05-86984. Perfluoroalkyl diethanol amine phosphates sold in particular by the supplier Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530 may be used.

The perfluoroalkanes may be linear or cyclic perfluoroalkanes. Examples of linear perfluoroalkanes that may be mentioned are the linear alkane series, such as perfluorooctane, perfiuorononane or perfluorodecane. Examples of cyclic perfluoroalkanes that may be mentioned are perfiuorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, and perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes). Perfluoroalkanes that may also be mentioned are organo- perfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds including at least one heteroatom.

Examples of perfiuorocycloalkanes and perfiuoro(alkylcycloalkanes) that may be mentioned are perfiuorodecalin sold under the name "FLUTEC PP5 GMP" by the supplier RHODIA, perfiuoro(methyldecalin), and perfiuoro(C3-C5 alky Icy clohexanes) such as perfiuoro(butylcyclohexane).

Examples of perfluoropolycycloalkanes that may be mentioned are bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfiuorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene, such as tetracosafiuoro- tetradecahydrophenanthrene.

Examples of perfluoroarenes that may be mentioned are perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfiuoromethyl-1- napththalene.

Examples of commercially available pigments treated with a fiuorinated compound that may be mentioned are:

· yellow iron oxide /perfluoroalkyl phosphate, sold in particular under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601 by the supplier Daito Kasei;

^• red iron oxide /perfluoroalkyl phosphate, sold in particular under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L by the supplier Daito Kasei;

^• black iron oxide /perfluoroalkyl phosphate, sold in particular under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100 by the supplier Daito Kasei;

^• titanium dioxide /perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Ti02 CR 50 by the supplier Daito Kasei; ^• yellow iron oxide jaune /perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether, sold in particular under the reference Iron oxide yellow BF-25-3 by the supplier Toshiki;

^• DC Red 7 /perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether, sold in particular under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC by the supplier Cardre Inc; and

· DC Red 6 /PTFE, sold in particular under the reference T 9506 by the supplier Warner - Jenkinson.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be a silicone-containing agent, in particular selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins and mixtures thereof.

The term "organopolysiloxane" means a compound with a structure comprising alternating silicone and oxygen atoms and including organic radicals bonded to silicon atoms.

i) Organopolysiloxane, non-elastomeric

Examples of non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may be mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical R-O- in which R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

One method of treating the surface of the coloring materials with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the coloring materials in an organic solvent then adding the silicone-containing compound. On heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone-containing compound and the surface of the coloring material.

In preferred exemplary embodiments, the silicone-containing surface agent may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular selected from polydimethylsilo xanes . ii) Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

Silanes with an alkoxy function have in particular been described by Witucki in "A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993". Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes, sold in particular under the references Silquest A- 137 (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202 (PCR), may be used to coat the coloring materials.

The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino is described in application JP H07- 196946. iii) Silicone-acrylate polymers

It is possible to use graft silicone-acrylic polymers with a silicone-containing backbone such as those described in patents US 5 725 882, US 5 209 924, US 4 972 037, US 4 981 903, US 4 981 902, US 5 468 477, and in patents US 5 219 560 and EP 0 388 582.

Particular examples of silicone-acrylate polymers are polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which mixed polymer motifs of the poly(meth)acrylic acid and of the methyl poly(meth)acrylate type are grafted via a thiopropylene type linker.

Other particular examples of silicone-acrylate polymers are polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which polymer motifs of the isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate type are grafted via a thiopropylene type linker. iv) Silicone resins

The silicone-containing agent may also be selected from silicone resins.

Examples of these silicone resins that may be mentioned are:

• siloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates with formula [(CH3)₃XSiXO]_xX(Si04/2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers in the range 50 to 80;

• polysilsesquioxanes with formula (CH₃Si0_3/2)._x (T units) in which x is more than 100 and in which at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted with at least one group R that is different from the methyl group, such as a hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl) containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or a hydroxy group;

• polymethylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals has been substituted with another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in the document US 5 246 694.

Examples of commercially available pigments treated with a silicone- containing compound that may be mentioned are: ^• red iron oxide /dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075 - 10 by the supplier Miyoshi Kasei; and

^• a pigment obtained by treatment of DC Red 7 with a silicone-containing compound, sold in particular by the supplier Coletica under the reference Gransil GCM (a mixture of D5 and polysilicone 11);

^• titanium oxide coated with polydimethyl-hydrogeno-siloxane and mineral oil, such as that sold under the reference SI-LUXELEN SILK by the supplier MIYOSHI KASEI.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from compounds with a fluoro-silicone-containing nature.

The fluoro-silicone-containing compound may be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, polyfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes.

Perfluoroalkyl silanes that may be mentioned are the compositions LP-IT and LP-4T sold in particular by the supplier Shin-Etsu Silicone.

Examples of commercial pigments treated with a fluoro-silicone-containing compound that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide /fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA by the supplier Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin (phosphatidylcholine), in particular hydrogenated egg lecithin, and derivatives thereof, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate (also known as ITT), and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as a 2-ethyl-hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

In particular exemplary embodiments, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from N-lauroyl-L-lysine, disodium N-stearoyl L-glutamate and acyl aluminum glutamates, in particular aluminum stearoyl glutamate. In the present invention, the fatty acids are in particular acids with hydrocarbon chains containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 18 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon chain may be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

Examples of pigments coated with fatty acids that may be mentioned are those sold under the commercial references NAI-TAO-77891, NAI - C33-8073 - 10, NAI - C33-8075, NAI - C47-051 - 10, NAI - C33-115, NAI - C33-134, NAI - C33-8001-10, NAI - C33-7001-10 and NAI - C33-9001-10 from the supplier MIYOSHI KASEI.

Examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) treated pigments that may be mentioned are those sold under the commercial reference BWBO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWRO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the supplier KOBO.

In particularly preferred exemplary embodiments, a coloring material that may be used in the invention may be surface treated by a hydrophobic agent selected from N- lauroyl-L-lysine, disodium N-stearoyl L-glutamate, aluminum acyl glutamates, in particular aluminum stearoyl glutamate, aluminum dimyristate, polyfluoroalkyl silanes, silicone-acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethyl-hydrogeno-siloxanes, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, hydrogenated egg lecithin, and mixtures thereof.

In particular exemplary embodiments of the invention, the agent for the hydrophobic surface treatment of a coloring material of the invention may be selected from aluminum acyl glutamate, in particular aluminum stearoyl glutamate, polymethyl- hydrogeno-siloxanes, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, and N-lauroyl-L-lysine, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the coloring materials may be selected from:

· iron oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate such as those sold under the references NAI - C33 by the supplier MIYOSHI KASEI;

• titanium dioxide coated with lauroyl lysine, such as that sold under the reference LL 5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE CR 50 by the supplier DAITO KASEI KOGYO;

• titanium dioxide coated with polymethyl-hydrogeno-siloxane and mineral oil, such as that sold under the reference SI-LUXELEN SILK by the supplier MIYOSHI

KASEI; • iron oxides coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, such as brown iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate (95/5) (CI: 77491) sold under the reference PF 5 RED R 516 L by the supplier DAITO KASEI KOGYO; and

• mixtures thereof.

In other variant exemplary embodiments, these coloring materials may also be treated with one or more materials for optimizing their dispersion in the composition applied using the method of the invention.

A wide variety of materials may be used and are more particularly selected from biological polymers, carbohydrates or polysaccharides. Even though those materials are known for their hydrophilic nature, because they are soluble in a solvent medium, such as water, the treated coloring materials may be dispersible therein.

Examples of biological polymers for coating coloring materials that may be mentioned are polymers based on carbohydrate type monomers. More particularly, the following may be mentioned: biosaccharide gum, chitosans and derivatives thereof, such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc., chitins and derivatives thereof, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and derivatives thereof, such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; the soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; Sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of carbohydrates that are suitable for coating the sensitive or activatable coloring materials of the invention that may in particular be mentioned are polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones, with general formula:

^• C_x(H₂0)y in which:

^• x and y may lie in the range 1 to 1,000,000.

The carbohydrates may be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.

Particular examples of carbohydrates that may be used in the invention are described on pages 1660 to 1662 of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, vol. 2, 8^th edition, 2000, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA).

Particular examples of carbohydrates that may be mentioned are amylodextrins, betaglucans, cyclodextrins, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcylodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, Triticum vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, and sodium chondroidin sulfate.

Other examples of compounds that may be used as surface treatments for coloring materials are C1-C20 alkylene glycols or C1-C20 alkylene glycol ethers, alone or used in combination with tri-Ci-C2o-alkylsilanes. Examples that may be mentioned are pigments surface treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxy silane such as, for example, pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane sold in particular by the supplier KOBO under the name "SW" pigments.

Coloring materials surface treated with silicones may also be suitable, such as dimethicones with hydrophilic groups, also known under the name dimethicone copolyols or alkyl dimethicone copolyols. In particular, such dimethicones may comprise C1-C20 alkylene oxides such as ethylene or propylene as repeat units.

An example that may be mentioned is the pigment treated with PEG- 12- dimethicone, sold in particular by the supplier SENSIENT CORPORATION, under the name LCW AQ pigment.

In other particularly preferred exemplary embodiments, the solid composition may comprise at least one pigment, in particular microencapsulated pigments such as iron oxides encapsulated in microcapsules based on polymeric materials. Examples that may be mentioned in particular are pigments encapsulated in microcapsules based on acrylate /ammonium methacrylate copolymers, such as encapsulated yellow iron oxides sold under the name YELLOWCAPl by the supplier TAGRA Biotechnologies, encapsulated red iron oxides sold under the name REDCAP 1 by the supplier TAGRA Biotechnologies, encapsulated black iron oxides sold under the name BLACKCAP 1 by the supplier TAGRA Biotechnologies.

Preferably, the sensitive or activatable coloring materials may represent in the range 0.1% to 50% preferably in the range 1% to 25%, more preferably in the range 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the solid composition of the invention.

In other particular exemplary embodiments of the invention, a solid composition of the invention may include at least one colorant. The colorant may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. Preferably, the hydrophilic or lipophilic colorant(s) may represent in the range 10^"3% to 10%, preferably in the range 5 x l0^"2% to 5 %, or even in the range 10^"2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the solid composition of the invention. In particular exemplary embodiments, the composition of the invention is a

"two-way cake" powder. Such a powder may include fillers and one binder.

Preferably, it includes at least one non emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer.

Non-emulsifying silicone elastomers

According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

The term "non-emulsifying" silicone elastomers defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not comprising a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.

The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and of a diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded groups comprising ethylenic unsaturation, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by a crosslinking condensation/dehydrogenation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl endings and a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, in particular in the presence of an organotin compound; or by a crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl endings and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermocrosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation, such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

Preferably, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon and (B2) of a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded groups comprising ethylenic unsaturation, in particular in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst, as, for example, disclosed in Application EP-A-295 886. In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and of a methylhydropoly- siloxane comprising trimethylsiloxy endings, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.

Use may be made, as non-emulsifying elastomers, of those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-31", "KSG-32", "KSG-33", "KSG-41", "KSG-42", "KSG-43" and "KSG-44" by Shin Etsu, "DC 9040", "DC 9041", "DC 9509", "DC 9505" and "DC 9506" by Dow Corning, "Gransil" by Grant Industries and "SFE 839" by General Electric.

In particular, the composition comprises a gel of non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, such as KSG 16 by Sin Etsu.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is different from deodorant and antiperspirant formulations.

In particular, a composition of the invention may advantageously comprise less than 2% by weight of deodorant or antiperspirant actives relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight and more preferably is totally free of deodorant or antiperspirant actives.

Said actives that are termed "antiperspirant" or "deodorant" are well known to the skilled person. Antiperspirant or deodorant actives that may be mentioned include active salts such as aluminium or zirconium salts, bacteriostatic agents and bactericidal agents such as quaternary ammonium salts, etc.

According to an other particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is different from a soap composition.

Clearly, the present invention is not limited to the variant embodiments described above, but may implement any other compound that can be qualified as "sensitive" to a specific solvent medium in that it needs to be brought into contact with a specific solvent medium, dispersed and/or dissolved in said solvent, in order to be able to benefit from the coloring effect. Clearly, the nature of the solvent medium should be adapted to the nature of the coloring material employed and in particular to its hydrophilic /hydrophobic coating, and in particular in order to encourage revealing its coloring effect.

Clearly, the solvent medium used in the method of the invention may also include a coloring material. More particularly, it may be a material that would be unstable or difficult to introduce into a solid compact formulation.

The invention is illustrated below in the following examples that are given by way of non-limiting illustration of the field of the invention.

Unless otherwise indicated, the values in the examples below are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total composition weight.

EXAMPLE 1

Cast foundation composition

> Bentone gel ISD V by Elementis,

⁽²⁾ DOW CORNING 2-8179 GELLANT by Dow Corning

Operating method:

Firstly, the pigments were milled in a portion of the fatty phase. The remaining liposoluble ingredients (including the waxes) were then mixed (melted) at a temperature of the order of 100°C. The pre-dispersed active ingredients, fillers and milled material were then added to the fatty phase. The handling conditions (equipment and quantities) had to take into account the presence of a solvent with a low flash point (isododecane etc). Only when mixing was complete after reducing the temperature slightly to about 85°C was the fragrance added.

Finally, the composition was cast into a pan.

Results:

The composition was applied to the skin of the face using an applicator as defined in Figures 1 to 3, pre-coated with a hydroalcoholic solvent medium comprising ethanol or propanol. This make-up method meant that the foundation composition could be taken very easily.

EXAMPLE 2

"Two-way cake" compact powder

Ingredients /Commercial references % by weight

N-lauroyl L- lysine

Porous silica microbeads coated with

polymethylhydrogenosiloxane (97/3.0) sold under 2.5

the reference SI-SB 700 by MIYOSHI KASEI

Sericite coated with hydrogenated egg lecithin

(98.5/1.5) (CI: 77019) sold under the reference LI- 28

S-100 by MIYOSHI KASEI

Synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite) treated with

aluminum hydroxide coated with polydimethyl

siloxane and silica spheres sold under the reference

SXI - 10EX by MIYOSHI KASEI

Talc /magnesium silicate coated with N-lauroyl L- lysine (95/5) (CI: 77718) sold under the reference 13.36

LL-5 TALC JA-46R by DAITO KASEI KOGYO

Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl- glutamate (97/3) (CI: 77492) sold under the

0.95

reference NAI - C33 - 8073 - 10 by MIYOSHI

KASEI

Titanium oxide coated with

polymethylhydrogenonosiloxane and mineral oil

(97/1.5/1.5) (CI: 77891) sold under the reference

SI-LUXELEN SILK by MIYOSHI KASEI

Brown iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl

phosphate (95/5) (CI: 77491) sold under the 0.38

reference PF 5 RED R 516 L by DAITO KASEI KOGYO

Titanium dioxide (rutile) coated with lauroyl lysine

(95/5) (CI: 77891) sold under the reference LL 5

3.5

TITANIUM DIOXIDE CR 50 by DAITO KASEI

KOGYO

Barium sulfate coated with N-lauroyl lysine (95/5)

(CI: 77120) sold under the reference LLD-5 7

BAS04 (PL) by DAITO KASEI KOGYO

Preservatives 1

Glycerol esters 1.10

Protected 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate sold

under the reference PARSOL MCX by DSM 5

NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS

Nacres 5

Microspheres of Nylon- 12 (granulometry: 5 μιη) 3

Microbeads of methylsilsesquioxane resin

(granulometry: 4.5 μιη) sold under the reference

2

TOSPEARL 145 A by MOMENTIVE

PERFORMANCE MATERIALS

Mixture of cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane and

polydimethylsiloxane (6 cSt) (24/76) sold under the 3.00

reference KSG 16 by SHIN ETSU

Cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane (granulometry:

3 μιη) sold under the reference DOW CORNING 0.2

9506 POWDER by DOW CORNING

Cross-linked methylsilanol /silicate polymer sold

under the reference NLK 506 by TAKEMOTO 3

OIL&FAT

dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) 0.1

Triglycerides of caprylic /capric acids (60/40) Qsp 100

Operating method:

The totality of the powders were introduced into a Baker type mixer and mixed for 15 minutes. The preservatives and the silicone were then introduced slowly, maintaining the stirring. Stirring of the mixture was maintained for 15 minutes.

The composition was then passed into a toothed roll or hammer crusher at a speed of 18000 rpm [revolution per minute]. Two passes were carried out.

The composition was then sieved.

Results: This composition was a composition known as a "two-way cake". It can be used dry or with water.

The powder could be taken easily using an applicator that had previously been moistened. The composition, mixed with water, could then be used as a foundation.

The applicator of the invention allowed the user to readily modify the coverage of the foundation.

The corresponding makeup result was better than that obtained by application using a wet sponge. The makeup obtained was uniform. The film applied was thin, uniform and smooth, providing a "natural" result.

Claims

1. A make-up and/or care method for the skin and/or the lips, the method comprising at least the following steps consisting in:

a) providing an applicator member having an application surface that is capable of turning about an axis or a center of rotation in response to being moved in engagement with the skin and/or the lips;

c) applying the thus removed composition to said keratinous material using said applicator member by moving said application surface over said skin and/or lips in rotation about said axis or center of rotation.

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein step b) comprises the following steps, consisting in:

ii) bringing said application surface into contact with said solid composition;

3. A method according to claim 1, wherein step b) comprises the following steps, consisting in:

i) bringing said solid composition into contact with said solvent medium; and ii) bringing said application surface of said applicator member into contact with said solid composition;

4. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition is in the form of a compact powder, in particular a compact powder of the "two-way cake" type, or a cast composition.

5. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition includes at least one thickening agent comprising at least one group, preferably at least two groups, capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, and in particular selected from polymeric thickening agents and organogelling agents.

6. A method according to the preceding claim, wherein said thickening agent is selected from silicone-containing polyamides, and more particularly is a Nylon 61 1 /dimethicone copolymer.

7. A method according to claim 5 or claim 6, wherein said solvent medium comprises at least one volatile alcohol, in particular selected from lower monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and more particularly selected from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.

8. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition includes at least one hydrophilic active ingredient that is unstable in a solvent medium.

9. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition includes at least one anti-wrinkle active ingredient, in particular selected from adenosine or non-phosphated derivatives thereof, retinol, nicotinic acid, ubiquinone, and mixtures thereof.

10. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition includes at least one coloring material that is activatable by said solvent medium, especially selected from iron oxides, titanium oxide, ultramarine blue and mixtures thereof, said coloring material(s) more particularly being completely or partially surface treated with at least one hydrophobic surface agent.

11. A method according to the preceding claim, wherein said surface agent is selected from aluminum acyl glutamate, in particular aluminum stearoyl glutamate, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, and N-lauroyl-L-lysine, and mixtures thereof.

12. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition constitutes a blusher, an eye shadow, a face powder, a foundation, a concealer, a lipstick, a body makeup composition, a face care product, a body care product or a sunscreen.

13. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the applicator member is a roller.

14. A method according to the preceding claim, wherein the roller has an application surface of the optionally-flocked foam type with open or closed cells, or is of a flocked material, an elastomer, a sintered material, a woven material or a nonwoven material.