WO2010124994A2

WO2010124994A2 - Coloured composition

Info

Publication number: WO2010124994A2
Application number: PCT/EP2010/055387
Authority: WO
Inventors: Xavier Blin; Ingrid Brenne; Anne-Catherine Legros
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-04-28
Filing date: 2010-04-22
Publication date: 2010-11-04
Also published as: FR2944701B1; FR2944701A1; WO2010124994A3

Abstract

The invention relates to a coloured cosmetic base or composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment, present in a total content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, (ii) at least 1% by weight of at least one clay relative to the total weight of the said composition, (iii) at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles, (iv) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt, preferably present in a content ranging from 40% to 75% by weight relative to the said composition.

Description

Coloured composition

The field of the invention relates to makeup and/or care compositions for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

In particular, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, using a coloured cosmetic composition or coloured base, otherwise known as a "colour concentrate" or a "universal colour concentrate", which can be mixed with standard galenicals used in cosmetics since they comprise an oily phase, in particular with any cosmetic care composition and/or antisun composition and/or foundation composition, for obtaining a makeup and care composition for keratin materials, which is custom- coloured and which has the desired covering power.

The consumer therefore does not have to worry about the galenics of her cosmetic composition, since it comprises at least one oily phase; and in particular it is an emulsion: irrespective of the sense of the emulsion. In general, it is, in point of fact, the oily phase that bears the colour, but care compositions are generally oil-in-water emulsions with, consequently, an aqueous outer phase.

The term "keratin materials" means the skin and its integuments, in particular the skin.

The compositions of the invention are especially intended for caring for and making up bodily and facial skin, preferentially facial skin.

Many women use care creams. The use of a care cream is an important cosmetic act for women, who are attached to the care benefits and the texture of their care cream. They often request to have available foundations with textures identical to those of care creams. Unfortunately, for technical reasons linked to the pigmentation of these creams, this is not easily achievable; moreover, tinted creams exist, but they are, precisely, sparingly pigmented and thus lead to a poor covering result in which women do not find the desired texture.

Now, women are in search of covering power for the purpose of masking colour imperfections of the face and body (for instance shadows under the eyes, redness, age marks, birthmarks or disease-related marks such as vitiligo, dyschromia, etc.), or quite simply for the purpose of unifying their complexion.

Producing ideal and sufficient covering power is thus of fundamental importance to the success of a facial makeup, given that this notion of sufficient covering power varies from one woman to another, but also, for the same women, as a function of the season, of the occasion or of the state of her skin. Moreover, the constraint of being able to achieve custom covering power, which may thus be high, makes it necessary to use a high pigment concentration so that the measuring-out, which will be performed by dilution, does not imperatively lead either to a largely insufficient covering power, or to denaturing of the texture of the cream. Now, a high pigment concentration especially poses difficulties in terms of formulation and stability, since pigments have a tendency to sediment in the texture. It will thus be important to take care to optimize this texture so as to make the product stable and nonetheless easily manipulable (easy mixing with cream, etc.) .

Finally, women are seeking strong benefits in terms of care performance, beyond the sensory effect, and which they do not necessarily find in their foundation, since it is true that the introduction of care active agents is not always compatible with the formulation of a foundation.

There is thus a real need for a product that can be custom-modified by women and that nevertheless has a universal nature for blending with the preferred texture of each and every woman, who are all different.

The aim is thus to develop a coloured base or composition (universal colour concentrate) , which is compatible as a mixture with the standard textures used in cosmetics, such as a care composition and/or antisun composition and/or foundation, and thus making it possible to deliver a chosen coloration and covering power, with the possibility of applying this product especially in the form of a preferred care cream of each woman.

The inventors have shown that it is possible to obtain such a uniform, coloured base or composition that is stable over time, despite having a high content of pigments (for example > 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition) , and which is compatible as a mixture with standard textures of skin care or makeup provided that they comprise an oily phase, this being possible by virtue of the combination of a crosslinked non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles, a clay and a silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt, preferably representing from 40% to 75% by weight and better still from 60% to 75% by weight of the said composition or coloured base.

Patent application EP 1 736 140 discloses a strongly tinted anhydrous makeup composition comprising more than 20% by weight of pigments, a polymeric oil thickener of the type such as an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and of olefin (e.g.: Kraton®) , a mineral oil thickener of clay type (e.g.: Bentone®) or silica (e.g.: Aerosil®) , an oily solvent comprising a high concentration of fluid silicone oils to stabilize the composition, and fillers.

However, it is not suggested anywhere to use this composition as a makeup base to be mixed with any cosmetic composition, and all the less so to add and/or replace the silica or the block copolymer with a non- spherical crosslinked silicone elastomer, to make this formulation homogeneous and stable over time, and compatible as a mixture with any cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily phase. The Applicant has thus developed a coloured cosmetic base or composition ("universal colour concentrate") intended especially to be mixed with any cosmetic composition provided that it comprises an oily phase, the said coloured cosmetic base or composition comprising :

- a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non- white coloured pigment, preferably in a content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, preferably in a content of at least 15% by weight, or even at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition;

- a vector, which is especially oily, and which is very universally compatible and/or mixable with care textures including O/W emulsions, comprising a very fluid silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt, which is preferably volatile, and preferably cyclic; the said silicone oil preferably representing at least 90% by weight of the said oily vehicle;

- a texturing gelling system, which provides texture so as to allow working of the preparation for good incorporation into the cream and also product quality in terms of non-sedimentation and stability, the strong presence of pigments making the thing very delicate. The inventors have thus selected a system comprising at least one clay and at least one non- emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles, satisfying the twofold criterion of manipulable texture and stability towards sedimentation or phase separation.

According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the said keratin materials of a composition obtained by mixing, preferably prepared extemporaneously, of at least two different compositions :

- at least one being a coloured cosmetic base or composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment; preferably present in a content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, (ii) at least 1% by weight of at least one clay relative to the total weight of the said composition,

(iii) at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non- spherical particles,

(iv) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt; preferably present in a content of from 40% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition,

- at least the other being a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one oily phase, preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic kit for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least: one coloured cosmetic base or composition as defined above;

- a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one oily phase, preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof .

The invention also relates to the use of a coloured cosmetic base or composition as defined previously, for the extemporaneous preparation of a skin makeup and/or care composition having a customized coloration and coverage, obtained by at least one step of mixing the said coloured base with a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one oily phase, preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof.

According to one particular mode, the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) , and preferably less than 10 cSt, represents at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily vehicle, preferably at least 95% or even at least 99%, and better still 100% relative to the total weight of the oily vehicle.

The percentage of fluid silicone oil combined with the crosslinked silicone elastomer is compatibilized in this calculation.

According to one preferred mode, the oily vehicle does not contain any additional oil.

COLOURED COSMETIC BASE OR COMPOSITION (COLOUR CONCENTRATE)

In the description, reference will be made without distinction to a "coloured cosmetic base or composition" and to a "colour concentrate" according to the invention. The coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) , otherwise known as a "universal colour concentrate", according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(i) a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment; preferably present in a content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition,

(ii) at least 1% by weight of at least one clay relative to the total weight of the said composition, (iii) at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles,

(iv) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt, preferably present in a content of from 40% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

According to one preferred mode, the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) comprises less than 5% by weight of compound (s) other than the abovementioned compounds (i) to (iv) , in particular less than 2% by weight or even less than 1% by weight of compound (s) other than the abovementioned compounds (i) to (iv) .

According to one particular mode, the composition may nevertheless also comprise a surfactant.

Advantageously, it will not contain any additional oil or any filler. According to one particular mode of the invention, the said coloured cosmetic base or composition has a loss of saturation of less than or equal to 30% and preferably less than or equal to 25%, according to the protocol described below. According to one particular mode, the total content of pigments (pigmentary phase) in the said coloured cosmetic base or composition is at least 13% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight or even at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition.

Preferably, the non-white coloured pigment is present in the said coloured cosmetic base or composition in a content of at least 1% by weight and in particular from 1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition .

According to one particular mode, the coloured cosmetic base or composition is characterized in that the pigmentary phase is present in a total content of at least 13% by weight, preferably at least 15% or even at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, and the non-white coloured pigments in a content of at least 1% and preferably at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition.

Unless otherwise mentioned, reference will be made to the weight percentage of active material relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Loss of saturation (colouring strength)

The coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention is advantageously characterized by a colouring strength expressed by a loss of saturation, when it is mixed with a white composition, measured according to the following protocol .

The colouring strength (CS) is measured by reflection using a Minolta 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (D65/10⁰ specular component excluded mode, small aperture (Creiss) ) .

The coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention is mixed with the white formulation G whose composition is as follows, in which the values are expressed as weight percentages of starting material:

Crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane (12%) in cyclopentasiloxane (DC9045 from Dow Corning) 50 Distearyldimethy1ammonium-modified hectorite (Bentone 38VCG from Elementis) 2

Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (qs) 28

Anatase titanium oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate ( 97/3) 20

The composition known as "colouring strength" is composed of 25% of the coloured cosmetic base or composition and 75% of the white composition G. Once uniform, the mixture is placed in an H247 eyeshadow dish and covered with a glass slide. The sample is then measured using a spectrocolorimeter. The colour of the coloured cosmetic base or composition alone (concentrate) and of the mixture ("preparation CS") are compared in the L*C* system (luminance L* and saturation C*) . From these measurements, the loss of saturation is estimated as being: ,, _ _

The coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention preferably has a loss of saturation of less than or equal to 30% and preferably less than or equal to 25%, according to the protocol described below.

According to one particular mode, the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention preferably has a loss of saturation ranging from 5% to

30%, especially from 10% to 30% and in particular from

20% to 25%.

According to another particular mode, the loss of saturation of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition will especially range from 20% to 25% according to the above-described protocol.

Pigmentary phase

The coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention contains at least one pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment.

A person skilled in the art will select the nature of the pigments and the content thereof in the said coloured cosmetic base or composition as a function of the skin type for which the said coloured cosmetic base or composition is intended.

Pigments The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the physiological medium, and which are intended to colour the composition .

The pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.

The said coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention comprises at least one non- white coloured pigment.

It will also generally comprise white pigments.

According to the invention, the term "non-white coloured pigments" especially means mineral pigments (e.g.: metal oxides, in particular iron oxides) or organic pigments (e.g.: lakes), which have a colour other than white.

Coloured pigments that will preferably be used are metal oxides, in particular iron oxides, preferably a mixture of black, yellow and red iron oxides.

Titanium dioxide will preferably be used as white pigment .

Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) , chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders such as aluminium powder or copper powder. It may also be a pigment which has a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts. Mention may also be made of a pigment which has a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL- 100 P, this pigment being formed from silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Among the organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP- A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A- 96/08537. The pigmentary phase is present in the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention in a high total content, in particular a content of at least 13% by weight, especially at least 15% by weight or even at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition, preferably ranging from 15% to 65% by weight and preferentially ranging from 20% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloured cosmetic base or composition. In particular, the non-white coloured pigments such as the metal oxides and in particular the iron oxides may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the said coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) will comprise at least 1%, or even at least 2%, by weight of coloured pigments, in particular of metal oxides and preferably of iron oxides.

For a coloured cosmetic base or composition intended for Asiatic skin, the said coloured cosmetic base or composition may comprise from 1% to 4% by weight of coloured pigments, in particular of metal oxides, and preferably of iron oxides, relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition . For a coloured cosmetic base or composition intended for other skin types, including Caucasian skin, the said coloured cosmetic base or composition may comprise from 2% to 20% by weight of coloured pigments, in particular of metal oxides, and preferably of iron oxides, relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition.

The other pigments are formed especially from white pigments, such as titanium dioxide, and optionally additional pulverulent dyestuffs as described hereinbelow.

In particular, titanium dioxide may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight and more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

The coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention may contain pigments of the same colour (monochrome) or several pigments of different colour (polychrome) .

The pigments may be totally or partially surface- treated with a compound of silicone nature, a compound of fluoro nature, a compound of fluorosilicone nature, a fatty acid or amino acid, or a mixture thereof.

The term "silicone compound" means a compound comprising at least one silicon atom.

The term "fluoro compound" means a compound comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "fluorosilicone compound" means a compound comprising at least one fluorine atom and at least one silicon atom.

The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

The surface agent may be absorbed or adsorbed onto the solid particles by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating of the pigments.

The coating may represent from 1% to 300% by weight relative to the weight of the untreated pigments, for example from 5% to 200% and in particular from 10% to 100% by weight relative to the weight of the untreated pigments.

The coating may represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight and in particular from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating may be performed, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the pigments by simple mixing with stirring of the pigments and of the said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the pigments into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition .

The coating may be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is especially described in patent US 4 578 266.

The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the pigments .

Silicone surface agent

According to one preferred embodiment, the pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of silicone nature. The silicone surface agents may be chosen from non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, silicone elastomers, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

The term "organopolysiloxane compound" means a compound having a structure comprising an alternance of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to silicon atoms.

i) Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethyl- siloxanes . The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical R-O- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl .

One method for surface-treating pigments or fillers with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments or fillers in an organic solvent and then in adding the silicone compound. On heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the solid particle .

According to one preferred embodiment, the silicone surface agent may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes .

H) Silicone elastomers

The silicone elastomers are especially those that may be present in the first composition according to the invention, described previously.

Hi) Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

Silanes containing alkoxy functionality are especially described by Witucki in "A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993".

Alkoxysilanes such as the alkyltriethoxysilanes and the alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialties) and Prosil

9202 (PCR) may be used for treating pigments or fillers .

The use of alkylpolysiloxanes containing a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino or imino are described in patent application JP H07-196 946. They are also suitable for treating pigments or fillers.

iv) Silicone-acrylate polymers

Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in patents US 5 725 882, US 5 209 924, US 4 972 037, US 4 981 903, US 4 981 902 and US 5 468 477 and in patents US 5 219 560 and EP 0 388 582 may be used.

Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the unit of formula (I) below:

in which the radicals Gi, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a Ci-Cio alkyl radical or alternatively a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G₄ represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer that may be between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that one of the parameters a and c is other than 0.

Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferentially all, of the following characteristics:

- the radicals Gi denote an alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical;

- n is non-zero, and the radicals G2 represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical; - G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid; - G₄ represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (Ci-Cio) alkyl (meth) acrylate type, preferably such as isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate .

Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the polymethyl

(meth) acrylate type. Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are especially polydimethylsiloxanes

(PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth) acrylate type.

v) Silicone resins

The silicone resins of the silicone surface agent are especially those that may be present in the first composition according to the invention, described previously.

As examples of commercial references of pigments treated with a silicone compound, mention may be made of:

- red iron oxide/dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10 by the company Miyoshi Kasei,

- a pigment obtained by treating DC Red 7 with a silicone compound, sold by the company Coletica under the reference Gransil GCM (which is a mixture of D4 and polysilicone 11) .

Fluoro surface agent

The pigments may be totally or partially surface- treated with a compound of fluoro nature.

The fluoro surface agents may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, poly- tetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE) and perfluoroalkanes .

Perfluoropolyethers are especially described in patent application EP-A-486 135, and sold under the trade name Fomblin by the company Montefluos.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in patent application JP-H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamines sold by Asahi

Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530 may be used. Among the linear perfluoroalkanes that may be mentioned are perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro-

(alkylcycloalkanes) , perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluoro hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and hydrocarbon-based perfluoro organic compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the linear alkane series such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane .

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro- (alkylcycloalkanes) , mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name Flutec PP5 GMP by the company Rhodia, perfluoro (methyldecalin) and perfluoro (C3-C5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro-

(butylcyclohexane) . Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo [3.3.1 ] nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and hydrogenated perfluorophenanthrene derivatives such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene .

Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluoronaphthalene derivatives, for instance perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene .

As examples of commercial references of pigments and fillers treated with a fluoro compound, mention may be made of:

- yellow iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601 by the company Daito Kasei, - red iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L by the company Daito Kasei,

- black iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BLlOO by the company

Daito Kasei,

- titanium dioxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50 by the company Daito Kasei, - yellow iron oxide/perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold under the reference Iron oxide yellow BF-25- 3 by the company Toshiki,

- DC Red 7/perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC by the company Cardre Inc . ,

- DC Red 6/PTFE sold under the reference T 9506 by the company Warner-Jenkinson,

- boron nitride/perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene sold under the reference Boron nitride TBN12 by the company Saint Gobain Advanced Ceramics.

Fluorosilicone treating agent

The pigments may be totally or partially surface- treated with a compound of fluorosilicone nature. The fluorosilicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes .

The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" means an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.

Perfluoroalkyl silanes that may be mentioned include the products LP-IT and LP-4T sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone .

The perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula: CH. CH. H. CH₃

CH_Q — Si-O- -Si- O Si- O - -SSii-- ;H_C

CH. CH. R CH, Rf m in which :

- R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,

- Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical containing 1 to 9 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- m is chosen between 0 and 150 and preferably from 20 to 100, and

- n is chosen between 1 and 300 and preferably from 1 to 100.

As examples of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorosilicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide/fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide IOOTA by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

Fatty acid or amino acid treating agent

The hydrophobic treating agent may be chosen from fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate (ITT), and mixtures thereof. The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2- ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty acid-coated pigments, mention may be made of those sold under the commercial references NAI - C33-8073 - 10, NAI - C33-8075, NAI - C47-051 - 10, NAI - C33-115, NAI - C33-134, NAI - C33- 8001-10, NAI - C33-7001-10, NAI - C33-9001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei.

As examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) -treated pigments, mention may be made of those sold under the commercial references BWBO-12 (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-12 (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-12 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company Kobo .

According to one particular mode, ammonium stearoyl glutamate-treated pigments will be used, such as those sold under the names NAI - C33-8001-10, NAI - C33-7001-10, NAI - C33-9001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei.

Additional pulverulent dyestuffs

The coloured base or composition according to the invention (colour concentrate) may also comprise additional dyestuffs such as nacres, pigments with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent coloured particles of any shape, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a colour effect via optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres that are available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (on a mica base) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige nacres on a mica base sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine nacres on a synthetic mica base, sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.

The term "material with a specific optical effect" means a material whose effect is different from a simple conventional shade effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments. For the purpose of the invention, the term "stabilized" means devoid of any colour variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners and fibres, especially interference fibres.

These additional pulverulent dyestuffs may represent from 0.1% to 40% by weight, especially from

1% to 30% by weight and in particular from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloured cosmetic base or composition.

Gelling system

The coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention, otherwise known as the universal colour concentrate, comprises at least one gelling system comprising at least one clay and at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer .

According to one preferred mode, the content of clay(s) is at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the said colour concentrate composition.

CLAYS

Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.

Examples that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the vermiculite, stevensite or chlorite family. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials such as the skin are used.

The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays may be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred mode, the clay is chosen from organomodified clays, especially treated with quaternary amines or tertiary amines, such as organomodified bentonites.

Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Rheox, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by the company Rheox, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonite, such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay.

According to one particular mode, organomodified clays are used, which are clays treated with compounds chosen especially from quaternary amines and tertiary amines. Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified bentonites such as those sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, organomodified hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 by the company Rheox, and the various grades of these ranges.

The content of clay(s) in the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention, otherwise known as the universal colour concentrate, may range from 1% to 4% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight and better still from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

In particular, the mass ratio of non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer active material in the form of non-spherical particles/clay is greater than 1, preferably between 1 and 8, better still between 2 and 6 and even better still between 2.5 and 4.

CROSSLINKED SILICONE ELASTOMERS The coloured cosmetic base or composition of the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane (also known as a silicone elastomer) .

In particular, the non-emulsifying elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane used according to the invention is in the form of non-spherical particles.

According to one preferred mode, the non- emulsifying silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from dimethicone crosspolymers (INCI name) as opposed to dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers (INCI name) .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-emulsifying" silicone elastomer means organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.

The non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane that may be obtained:

- by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or

- by a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin reagent; or

- by a crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or - by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organo- peroxide catalyst; or

- by crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane with high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst, for instance as described in patent application EP-A-295 886. In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogeno- polysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking is performed via an addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2) .

Compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopoly- siloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example of C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear chain structure is preferred. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to a gum state. Preferably, compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

The organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethyl- siloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenyl- siloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethyl- siloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenyl- siloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3, 3, 3-trifluoro- propyl) polysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3, 3, 3-trifluoro- propyl) siloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups. Compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for compound (A2) .

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule in compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule in compound (B2) is at least 4.

Compound (B2) may be in any molecular structure, especially in a linear chain, branched chain or cyclic structure .

Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (A) . It is advantageous for compound (B2) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in compound (B2) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) is in the range from 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (B2) may be chosen from methylhydrogeno- polysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups and dimethyl- siloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid- diketone complexes, platinum black or platinum on a support .

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2) .

Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described previously, for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group .

According to one preferred embodiment, the non- emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the non- emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles .

According to one particular mode, the non- emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer according to the invention is mixed with at least one volatile silicone oil, such as that defined hereinbelow as vehicle .

According to one preferred mode, a non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer mixed with the same silicone oil as that of the oily vehicle of the said coloured base or composition will be used.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents US 4 970 252, US 4 987 169, US 5 412 004, US 5 654 362 and US 5 760 116 and in patent application JP-A-61-194 009.

Mention may be made advantageously of non- emulsifying elastomers of dimethicone crosspolymer type (INCI name) described in patents US 5 599 533 and US 6 027 738.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG- 16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-105 and USG-106 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 9040, DC9041, DC9045, DC 9509, DC9505 and DC 9506 by the company Dow Corning, Gransil by the company Grant Industries, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.

According to one preferred mode, a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane at 12% in cyclopenta- siloxane is used, such as DC9045 sold by the company Dow Corning.

The non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles is present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 6% by weight and better still from 4% to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In the case, for example, of a non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non- spherical particles mixed with at least one volatile silicone oil (12.3/87.7), a starting material content ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 35% to 50% by weight and better still from 35% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, will be used in the composition.

Advantageously, the composition comprises a content of non-emulsifying silicone elastomer ranging from 4% to 5.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, and a clay content ranging from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

VERY FLUID SILICONE OIL

The coloured base or composition of the invention comprises a vehicle, which is especially oily, preferably a single vehicle to be as universally compatible as possible and/or mixable with care textures including O/W emulsions.

The coloured cosmetic base or composition (universal colour concentrate) according to the invention contains at least one very fluid silicone oil, which is preferably a volatile silicone oil.

In particular, the coloured base or composition comprises a silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt, preferably representing at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the said oily vehicle, preferably at least 95% or even at least 99%, and better still 100% relative to the total weight of the said oily vehicle.

The percentage of fluid silicone oil combined with the crosslinked silicone elastomer associated with the crosslinked silicone elastomer is compatibilized in this calculation.

According to one particular mode, the said fluid silicone oil is a cyclic volatile silicone oil and preferably cyclopentadimethylsiloxane .

According to one preferred mode, the said coloured cosmetic base or composition (universal colour concentrate) comprises a very fluid silicone oil and does not comprise any additional non-silicone oil.

According to another preferred mode, the said coloured cosmetic base or composition (universal colour concentrate) comprises a very fluid silicone oil and does not comprise any additional oil, irrespective of its nature.

The term "very fluid silicone oil" means a silicone oil which has a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) (20 x 10^"6 m²/s) and preferably less than or equal to 10 cSt.

Thus, the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than

10 cSt.

The term "volatile oil" means an oil that can evaporate from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. This oil especially has a vapour pressure, at room temperature

(25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) , ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^~3 to 300 mmHg), especially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .

In addition, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150⁰C to 260⁰C and especially ranging from 170°C to 250⁰C. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (20 x 10^~6 m²/s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which are pendant or at the end of each silicone chain. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta- siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl- hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexa- methyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular mode, a cyclic volatile silicone oil will advantageously be used, such as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclo- hexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane will more preferably be used.

According to one particular mode of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises decamethylcyclopentasiloxane as sole oil of the said composition .

The silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt is present in the coloured composition, otherwise known as the universal colour concentrate, in a content ranging from 40% to 75% by weight and especially from 60% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, in particular from 50% to 70% by weight and better still from 60% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition .

This percentage takes into account the percentage of silicone oil associated with the crosslinked silicone elastomer when it is in the form of a mixture with a silicone oil.

According to one particular mode, the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt is present in a content ranging from 60% to 75% by weight and better still from 65% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition . According to one preferred mode, the active material mass ratio R of "non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles/silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt" is greater than 0.05 and preferably greater than 0.06.

In particular, the mass ratio R may be between 0.05 and 0.5 and preferably between 0.05 and 0.1.

Additives

The coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention, also known as the universal colour concentrate, may comprise, besides pigments, the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt and the gelling system described previously, other cosmetic ingredients chosen from fillers, surfactants, solvents, lipophilic thickeners and/or gelling agents, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents and neutralizers conventionally used in cosmetic compositions .

It is understood that the amount of these additional compounds may be adjusted by a person skilled in the art so as not to harm the desired effect in the context of the present invention.

According to one particular mode, the composition also comprises a surfactant.

Besides this optional surfactant, preferably, the composition will not comprise any compound (s) other than the abovementioned compounds (i) to (iv) .

In particular, the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil with a vapour pressure of less than

0.13 Pa.

The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.

Preferably, it will be a non-volatile silicone oil .

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203) , triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C36 and especially from Cis to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R₂ ≥ 10. The esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2- diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetra- isostearate,

- esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338,

- copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers and esters thereof, for instance Plandool-G, - copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA or the dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer,

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol,

- C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and

- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,

- oils of high molar mass, in particular having a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol. As oils of high molar mass that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of oils chosen from: • lipophilic polymers, • linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70,

• hydroxylated esters,

• aromatic esters, • C24-C28 esters of fatty alcohols or of branched fatty acids,

• silicone oils,

• oils of plant origin,

• and mixtures thereof; - optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone fluoro oils, for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752;

- silicone oils, for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ; poly- dimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl tri- methicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and

- mixtures thereof. The coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may also comprise an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water. A water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Cl-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Cl-C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water- soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, a coloured cosmetic base or composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 0% to 20% by weight and especially from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The coloured cosmetic base or composition of the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion or in an anhydrous form, preferably anhydrous.

According to one preferred embodiment, the coloured cosmetic base or composition of the invention is in an anhydrous form.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant.

The surfactant may be lipophilic and/or hydrophilic, used alone or as a couple.

The surfactant may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant may be chosen from:

- a C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C8- C22 ) alkyldimethylmethylsiloxane .

The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of formula (I) below:

in which:

- PE represents (-C2H4O) x- (C3H6O) y-R, R being chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y not simultaneously being 0

- m ranging from 1 to 40

- n ranging from 10 to 200

- o ranging from 1 to 100

- p ranging from 7 to 21

- q ranging from 0 to 4 and preferably:

R = H m = 1 to 10 n = 10 to 100 o = 1 to 30 p = 15 q = 3

A C8-C22 alkyldimethiconecopolyol that may be mentioned is cetyldimethiconecopolyol, for instance the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt .

- a dimethiconecopolyol, i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane . It does not contain any long-chain alkyl groups of more than 8 carbon atoms, especially C8-C22.

Dimethiconecopolyols that may be used are those corresponding to formula (II) below:

(ii: in which :

Rl, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a

C1-C6 alkyl radical or a radical - (CH2) x- (OCH2CH2) y- (OCH2CH2CH2) z-0R4, at least one radical Rl, R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a Cl-

C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; on condition that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (II), Rl = R3 = methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. R4 is in particular a hydrogen.

As examples of compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compounds of formula (III) :

(CH3)3SiO - [(CH3)2SiO]A - (CH3SiO)B - Si(CH3)3

I (III)

(CH2) 2- (OCH2CH2) y-OH

in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

As examples of silicone compounds of formula (II), mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (IV) :

HO - (CH2CH2O)y- (CH2) 3 - [ (CH3) 2SiO]A' - [(CH3)2Si] - (CH2)3 - (OCH2CH2)y - OH (IV) in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20. Dimethiconecopolyols that may be used include those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2- 5695 and Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016 and KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu. The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12. Nonionic surfactants that may also be mentioned include fatty acid esters of polyols, for instance sorbitol or glyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesquioleates or stearates, glyceryl or polyethylene glycol laurates; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (polyethylene glycol monostearate or monolaurate) ; polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (stearate, oleate) of sorbitol; and polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, octyl) ethers.

Anionic surfactants that may be mentioned include carboxylates (sodium 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy) acetate) , amino acid derivatives (N-acylglutamates, N- acylglycinates or acylsarcosinates) , alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and oxyethylenated derivatives thereof, sulfonates, isethionates and N- acylisethionates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglycoside (acyl-D-galactoside uronate) , and fatty acid soaps, and mixtures thereof. Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants that may be used include betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates and alkyl amphoacetates, and mixtures thereof. Such surfactants are especially described in patent application WO-A-02/056 854, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

The surfactant may be present in the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may be anhydrous or in the form of a W/O emulsion or alternatively in the form of gels, especially oily gels. Anhydrous compositions and W/O emulsions are preferential.

The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition comprising less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 2% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferentially, the composition is free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponding to the residual water introduced by the mixed ingredients.

According to one preferred mode, the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention is in anhydrous form.

Viscosity

The coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention advantageously has a viscosity of greater than or equal to 22 DU

(deviation units) measured after standing for 24 hours, on a Rheomat 180 machine, with an M4 spindle at 25°C, after 10 minutes of shear at 200 rpm, i.e. a value equivalent to 52 poises.

According to one particular mode, the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention advantageously has a viscosity of 22 to 38 DU, measured after 24 hours at rest on a Rheomat 180 machine, with an M4 spindle at 25°C, after 10 minutes of shear at 200 rpm, i.e. from 52 to 90 poises.

The viscosity of the composition is measured at 25°C using a Rheomat 180 machine (from the company Lamy) equipped with an MS-Rl, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 spindle, chosen as a function of the consistency of the composition, rotating at a spin speed of 200 rpm. In particular, the MS-R4 spindle is used. The measurement is taken after 10 minutes of rotation. The viscosity measurements are taken not more than 1 week after manufacture.

According to one particular mode of the invention, the coloured base or composition comprises: (i) a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment, present in a total content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, (ii) from 1% to 4% by weight of at least one clay relative to the total weight of the said composition,

(iii) at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non- spherical particles, preferably in a content ranging from 3% to 8% by weight of active material,

(iv) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than

10 cSt, preferably present in a content of from 60% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured base or composition .

PREPARATION AND CONDITIONING OF THE COLOURED COMPOSITION

The coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may be prepared according to the standard methods used in cosmetics. According to one particular mode:

- the clay is predispersed in a small amount of silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt;

- the pigments are added and the mixture is ground, for example in a three-roll mill or using a ball mill of Sussmeyer or Dynomill type;

- the crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles is dispersed in the rest of the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt; - the crosslinked silicone elastomer is added to the ground pigmentary mixture using a Rayneri blender.

The coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) may be packaged in any type of device that allows the distribution and application of the product to keratin materials.

As examples of devices for distributing the said coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) , mention may be made of a single-dose sachet, a tube, a distributing pen, a pump-action bottle preferably equipped with an airless system, a jar with a spatula, without these examples being limiting.

The invention thus relates also to a cosmetic assembly especially in the form of a tube, a dispensing pen or a pump-action bottle preferably equipped with an airless system, or a jar with a spatula, comprising a coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) as defined previously.

The invention also relates to a makeup and/or care cosmetic kit for keratin materials, comprising:

- a coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) as defined previously;

COSMETIC COMPOSITION TO BE MIXED WITH THE COLOURED BASE

Any standard composition of care composition, foundation composition or antisun composition type, provided that it comprises an oily phase preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, may be mixed with the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention.

In particular, the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) will be readily mixed at the time of use with a composition in the form of a

W/0, 0/W or multiple emulsion, a serum, an oily gel, a fluid anhydrous composition, etc.

According to one particular mode, the said cosmetic composition to be mixed with the coloured base is a care composition in the form of an O/W emulsion.

According to another particular mode, the said cosmetic composition to be mixed with the coloured base is an oily gel. This cosmetic composition especially contains at least one oily phase containing at least one nonvolatile oil. Examples of such oils are described previously in the description.

The said cosmetic composition may be a care product for the face and/or the body.

Advantageously, it contains at least one active agent that is beneficial to the skin, chosen especially from antioxidants, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-pollution agents or free-radical scavengers, sequestrants, dermo-relaxing active agents, calmatives, agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, antiglycation agents, antiirritants, desquamating agents, depigmenting, antipigmenting or pro-pigmenting agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents for stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents acting on the capillary circulation, agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells, and slimming agents, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made in particular of any active agent known for its activity on ageing of the skin, for instance keratolytic agents and pro-desquamating agents, for example α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, α-keto acids, β-keto acids, retinoids and esters thereof, in particular retinyl palmitate. Mention may also be made of vitamins, for instance vitamin B3, C or PP, B5, E and Kl, and derivatives of these vitamins and especially esters thereof, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; free-radical scavengers, sunscreens; moisturizers, for instance polyols; ceramides; DHEA and derivatives thereof; coenzyme QlO; bleaching and depigmenting agents, for instance kojic acid, para- aminophenol derivatives, arbutin and derivatives thereof; artificial skin tanning and/or browning agents, and mixtures thereof. Examples of UV-screening agents that may be mentioned include cinnamic derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, dibenzomethane derivatives, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, screening polymers and screening silicones, as described, for example, in patent application WO 93/04665.

As examples of artificial skin tanning and/or browning agents, mention may be made of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) .

APPLICATION ROUTINE

The coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may be used per se for masking colour imperfections of the face and body or for unifying the complexion.

However, it will be primarily used as a mixture with a cosmetic composition as described above chosen by the consumer especially from her care composition, antisun composition and foundation.

Specifically, the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) may be used especially as a mixture:

• with a face cream for a naturally tanned effect, • with a standard foundation to enhance the intensity,

• with a facial antisun care product to combine UV protection and a healthy complexion. The invention thus also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the said keratin materials of a composition obtained by mixing, preferably prepared extemporaneously, of at least two different compositions :

- at least one of them being a coloured cosmetic base or composition as defined previously;

- at least the other being a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily phase preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof. By way of example, the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may be mixed with a care cream, according to the following recommendations:

1 - take the amount of day cream that you usually apply to the face and place it on the back of your hand;

2 - place a small amount of the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) next to your day cream. The equivalent of a grain of rice is sufficient to obtain an immediate healthy complexion result;

3 - on the back of your hand, work the mixture homogeneously. Use the first application session to define the optimum amount of the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) to be added to your care cream so as to obtain the colour intensity that you desire;

4 - apply the texture obtained as a standard face cream. The colour concentrate according to the invention elevates and unifies the complexion naturally, without giving any sensation of material on the skin, for an immediately perceptible healthy complexion effect. The colour intensity is natural and entirely suited to the flesh tone of the user.

Advantageously, the user may adjust the "amount of coloured cosmetic base/amount of cosmetic composition" dosage as a function of her skin colour and optionally of her colour change (tan) after exposure to sunlight. Specifically, the inventors have demonstrated that 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 ratios between the coloured cosmetic base and a care cream can follow the tanning path of a skin type, i.e. the colour change of the complexion after exposure to sunlight (Figure 1) .

According to a first embodiment, the consumer mixes 1 dose of coloured cosmetic base (colour concentrate) with 3 doses of cosmetic composition, for a slight tan on the skin, making it possible to naturally prolong the effect of a first exposure to sunlight .

According to a second mode, the consumer mixes 2 doses of the coloured cosmetic base (colour concentrate) with 2 doses of cosmetic composition, for a more pronounced tan, and thus naturally prolongs the effect of a longer and/or more frequent exposure to sunlight .

According to another mode, the consumer mixes 3 doses of the coloured cosmetic base (colour concentrate) with 1 dose of cosmetic composition, for a stronger coloration, making it possible to naturally prolong and/or reinforce the effect of a deeper tan.

The invention thus relates also to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the said keratin materials of a composition obtained by mixing, preferably prepared extemporaneously, of at least two different compositions : - at least one being a coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) as defined previously,

- at least the other being a cosmetic composition comprising at least an oily phase preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof, the coloured cosmetic base and the cosmetic composition being present in the mixture in coloured base/cosmetic composition ratios ranging from 1/4 to 3/4 and in particular ratios of 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4.

The invention also relates to the use of a coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) as defined previously for the extemporaneous preparation of a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin, having a custom coloration and covering power, obtained by at least one step of mixing the said coloured cosmetic base or composition with a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one oily phase preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof.

FIGURE

Figure 1 : representation of the colour volume of skin before and after application of a mixture formed from a coloured base (colour concentrate) /care cream (colour volume of skin) .

The invention will be illustrated by the non- limiting examples that follow.

Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are expressed as weight of starting material relative to the total weight of the said composition. EXAMPLES

Example 1: Choice of the gelling system in the coloured base according to the invention

* = pigments treated with ammonium stearoyl glutamate

Compositions A to E are prepared according to the standard methods. Procedure :

1 - phase Al is prepared by mixing the gelling agent, optionally predispersed in a surfactant, in the volatile silicone oil with magnetic stirring 2 - phase A2 formed by the pigments is added

3 - the mixture is ground

4 - in a Moritz blender, phase A4 is added very slowly and then, in the case of composition A, phase A3 is added. The texture (± fluid, ± thick), the homogeneity (± sedimentation of the pigments) and the stability of the said compositions are evaluated.

The texture is evaluated by visual observation of the appearance of the composition and measurement of the viscosity.

The viscosity of the composition is measured after 24 hours of rest, on a Rheomat 180 viscometer (Lamy) , with an M4 spindle at 25°C.

The stability and homogeneity of the said composition are evaluated by visual assessment, by observing the amount of sedimentation that takes place for a sample of the composition, after two months of storage at 45°C.

In parallel, the stability is evaluated by observing a sample of the said composition after storage at room temperature for 48 hours, under a microscope, at a magnification of xlOO. Its microscopic appearance must remain close to the initial appearance. Only composition D (according to the invention) has the desired characteristics in terms of texture (quite thick), homogeneity and stability over time.

The comparative compositions that contain other gelling systems for the same content of pigments (20%) do not make it possible to obtain a composition of quite thick texture, which is homogeneous and stable over time.

The combination of a clay and of a non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non- spherical particles thus makes it possible to satisfy the technical problem posed, which is that of obtaining a composition of pigments in particular in a high content (in this case 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) , the texture of which is acceptable for it to be worked with any care composition, and which is homogeneous and stable over time .

Example 2: Choice of the clay content (> 1%) in the coloured base according to the invention

= pigments treated with ammonium stearoyl glutamate

Composition F (comparative) which contains less than 1% by weight of clay relative to the total weight of the said composition is not stable over time.

Consequently, 1% will be defined as the preferred minimum amount of clay according to the invention, in combination with the silicone elastomer, to obtain a composition comprising pigments in particular in a high content (at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, illustrated here with 20% by weight) that is stable over time and whose texture is suitable for mixing with any care composition . Example 3 : Coloured base or composition (universal colour concentrate)

= pigments treated with ammonium stearoyl glutamate

Procedure :

• the bentone is swollen in a small amount of cyclopentasiloxane;

• the pigments are ground in a three-roll mill and the bentone is added with a small amount of cyclopentasiloxane;

• the silicone elastomer is dispersed in the rest of the cyclopentasiloxane; • the mixture obtained in the preceding step is added to the ground pigmentary mixture in a Rayneri blender .

This composition has a smooth, uniform, quite thick appearance, with a viscosity from 22DU to 38DU on a module M4 viscometer.

It is stable after two months of storage at 45°C, with good dispersion of the pigments.

Measurement of the loss of saturation (colouring strength) of the said coloured composition

The colouring strength (CS) in reflection is measured using a Minolta 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (D65/10⁰ specular component excluded mode, small aperture (Creiss) ) .

This coloured composition is mixed with the following white composition G:

Crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane (12%) in cyclopentasiloxane (DC9045 from Dow Corning) 50 Distearyldimethylammonium-modified hectorite

(Bentone 38VCG from Elementis) 2

Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (qs) 28

Anatase titanium oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate (97/3) 20 The composition known as the "colouring strength" is composed of 25% of the coloured composition and 75% of the white composition G. Once homogenized, the mixture is placed in an H247 eyeshadow dish and covered with a glass slide. The sample is then measured using a spectrocolorimeter.

The colour of the coloured composition alone (concentrate) and of the mixture ("preparation CS") are compared in the L*C* system (luminance L* and saturation C*) . From these measurements, the loss of saturation is estimated as being: loss of saturation =

x 100

^concentrat e

The following loss of saturation value is obtained : 22 . 6 % .

The coloured composition (universal colour concentrate) is packaged in a tube. It may be used as a mixture with a cosmetic composition chosen by the user from her care composition, antisun composition and foundation .

By way of example, the coloured composition described above is mixed with a care cream having the following composition: Octyldodecanol 2.00

Myristyl myristate 2.00

Cetyl alcohol 4.00

Squalane 4.00

Glyceryl stearate 3.00 PEG-40 stearate 2.00

Cyclohexasiloxane 8.00

Acrylamide/sodium

2 -acry1amidomethylpropanesulfonate copolymer as a reverse emulsion at 40% in isoparaffin/water

(Sepigel 305 from SEPPIC) 1.80

Glycerol 7.00

Tocopheryl acetate 1.00

Water qs 100.00 An amount of coloured composition is taken up and placed on the back of the hand; an equal amount of the care cream described previously is added and the two compositions are mixed together until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The mixture obtained is applied to the face and a uniform makeup result is obtained, with an immediate healthy complexion effect.

The coloured base or composition according to the invention elevates and unifies the complexion naturally, without giving a sensation of material on the skin, for an immediately perceptible healthy complexion effect.

The colour intensity is natural and perfectly suited/adaptable to the user's flesh tone. Example 4: Dosage between coloured composition (colour concentrate) and cosmetic composition

The inventors demonstrated that mixtures of coloured composition (colour concentrate) with a care cream in different proportions (1/4, 1/2, 3/4) make it possible to obtain a makeup result on the skin, close to the tanning pathway of the said skin.

The notion of a tanning pathway is based on a study by Chardon et al . (Skin colour typology and suntanning pathways, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 1991; 13: 191-208) directed towards evaluating the dynamics and kinetics of tans induced on classes of skin by multi- application of UVB, UVA and UVB+A. The specific directions of the components of a natural tan, such as erythema, immediate pigmentation and constitutional melanization, and the resulting tanning pathways, were detected and defined in the three-dimensional space L*a*b* using a vector method. Skin colour volumes are thus defined, as presented in Figure 1.

In the context of the present invention, three mixtures Ml, M2 and M3 were prepared in the following proportions : 1/4 colour concentrate + 3/4 care cream (mixture Ml) 1/2 colour concentrate + 1/2 care cream (mixture M2) 3/4 colour concentrate + 1/4 care cream (mixture M3) using the following compositions:

- coloured composition (colour concentrate) as described in Example 3, and

- a care cream having the following composition: cyclopentasiloxane 6.5% gelling agent 0.6% sodium 2-methylpropanesulfonate as a reverse emulsion at 40% in isoparaffin/water (Sepigel 305 from SEPPIC) 1.8% glycerol 7.0% urea 1.0% apricot kernel oil 1.5% tocopherol 0.25% preserving agents 0.25%

Water qs 100% Each mixture is applied to the model's face and the parameters of the (L*, a*, b*) system, in which L* represents the luminance, a* represents the green-red axis (-a* = green, +a* = red) and b* represents the yellow-blue axis (-b* = blue, +b* = yellow) are measured with a Minolta CR300 chromameter. Thus, a* and b* express the shade of the skin.

The coloration before applying the mixture (naked skin) and after applying, respectively, mixture 1, mixture 2 and then mixture 3, are evaluated, the skin being freed of makeup between the application of each mixture .

The results are presented in the appended Figure 1: it is observed that the measurements of the parameters (L*, a*, b*) for a naked skin and for a skin treated with each of the mixtures are in the skin colour volume and that the application of each mixture, from the lightest (1/4) to the darkest (3/4) follows the tanning pathway.

Thus, the consumer can adjust the "coloured composition (colour concentrate) /care cream" dosage to be applied as a function of her skin type and of the desired colour effect:

- mix 1 dose of coloured composition (colour concentrate) with 3 doses of cosmetic composition, for a slight tan on the skin, making it possible to naturally prolong the effect of a first exposure to sunlight;

- mix 2 doses of coloured composition (colour concentrate) with 2 doses of cosmetic composition, for a more pronounced tan, and thus naturally prolong the effect of longer and/or more frequent exposure to sunlight;

- mix 3 doses of coloured composition (colour concentrate) with 1 dose of cosmetic composition, for a stronger coloration, making it possible to naturally prolong the effect of a deeper tan.

Claims

1. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the said keratin materials of a composition obtained by mixing, preferably prepared extemporaneously, of at least two different compositions:

- at least one being a coloured cosmetic base or composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(ii) at least 1% by weight of at least one clay relative to the total weight of the said composition, (iϋ) at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non- spherical particles,

2. Cosmetic process according to the preceding claim, in which the coloured cosmetic base or composition is characterized in that the loss of saturation is less than or equal to 30% and preferably less than or equal to 25% according to the protocol described in the description.

3. Cosmetic process according to claim 1 or 2, in which the coloured cosmetic base or composition comprises a total content of pigmentary phase of at least 15% by weight of or even at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, and a content of non-white coloured pigments of at least 1% and preferably at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition.

4. Cosmetic process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the coloured base or composition comprises a content of clay(s) ranging from 1% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition.

5. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the coloured base or composition is characterized by an active material mass ratio R of "non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles/clay" of greater than 1, preferably between 1 and 8, better still between 2 and 6 and even better still between 2.5 and 4.

6. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the clay present in the coloured base or composition is chosen from organomodified clays, especially clays treated with quaternary amines or tertiary amines, such as organomodified bentonites.

7. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non- spherical particles present in the coloured base or composition is chosen from those obtained: - by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or

- by a crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or - by thermal crosslinking of an organopoly- siloxane, especially in the presence of an organo- peroxide catalyst; or

8. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non- spherical particles is present in the coloured base or composition in an active material content ranging from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 6% by weight and better still from 4% to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloured cosmetic base or composition.

9. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt present in the coloured base or composition is chosen from linear, branched or cyclic volatile silicone oils containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta- siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl- hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexa- methyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

10. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt is present in the coloured base or composition in a content ranging from 40% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, and especially from 60% to 75% by weight in particular from 50% to 70% by weight and better still from 60% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition.

11. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the active material mass ratio R' of "non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles/silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt" present in the coloured base or composition is greater than 0.05 and preferably greater than 0.06.

12. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the coloured base or composition is in an anhydrous form.

13. Coloured cosmetic base or composition that may be used in the cosmetic process of one of Claims 1 to 12, comprising:

(i) a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment, present in a content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, (ii) from 1% to 4% by weight of at least one clay relative to the total weight of the said composition,

(iii) at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles, preferably in a content ranging from 3% to 8% by weight of active material,

(iv) at least one silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt, preferably present in a content of from 60% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured base or composition.

14. Device for distributing and applying to keratin materials of a coloured cosmetic base or composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it is in the form of a single- dose sachet, a tube, a dispensing pen, a pump-action bottle preferably equipped with an airless system, or a jar with a spatula.

15. Cosmetic kit for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least:

- one coloured cosmetic base or composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13;

- one cosmetic composition, comprising at least one oily phase, preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof .

16. Use of a coloured cosmetic base or composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13, for the extemporaneous preparation of a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin which has a custom coloration and covering power, obtained by at least one step of mixing the said coloured base with a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one oily phase, preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof.