WO2002056845A1

WO2002056845A1 - Composition structured in rigid form by a polymeric compound

Info

Publication number: WO2002056845A1
Application number: PCT/FR2002/000185
Authority: WO
Inventors: Richard Kolodziej; Véronique Ferrari; Jean Mondet
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2001-01-17
Filing date: 2002-01-17
Publication date: 2002-07-25
Also published as: FR2819398A1; WO2002056845B1

Abstract

The invention concerns a composition containing a liquid lipophilic body and an organic polymeric compound comprising: a) a polar part having at least two repeat units including at least a group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic body, said group including at least a heteroatom; and b) a lipophilic part comprising a carbonaceous chain with at least four carbon atoms or a silicon chain including at least two silicon atoms, the organic polymeric compound having a mean mole weight less than 1000, the lipophilic body and the organic compound forming a physiologically acceptable medium. Said composition constitutes in particular a non-greasy make-up base or a lipstick having non-transfer properties. The polymer is in particular a polyamide comprising a hydroxylated fatty acid ester chain.

Description

STRUCTURED COMPOSITION IN RIGID FORM BY A COMPOUND

POLYMER

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or treating and / or making up the skin, including the scalp, and / or the lips of human beings, containing a liquid fatty phase containing a liquid lipophilic body, in particular structured by a particular polymeric compound. This composition is in particular in the form of a make-up product cast in particular in stick or in a cup and more especially of foundation or lipstick, the application of which results in a non-greasy, light deposit and possibly without transfer.

The foundations currently sold are most often either in the form of a liquid packaged in a bottle, or in the form of a product compacted in a casing (see in particular document US-A-5186318). These foundations require the use of an applicator such as a sponge, which becomes contaminated quickly and must be cleaned very often, especially after each application. Also, users of foundations are increasingly looking for solid foundations in the form of sticks, in order to abstain from the sponge-type applicator. Such a foundation is easy to use, hygienic, allowing its application until the product is completely exhausted, unlike a conventional foundation which is applied with a sponge. In addition, the surface of the foundation remains smooth while the surface of a product compacted in a housing is deformed under the pressure of successive catches. Finally, a solid foundation makes it possible to obtain a more homogeneous makeup than a fluid foundation.

The classic balms and lipsticks as well as concealers and deodorants are most often in the form of a stick. As a stick product, there are also lip care or sun protection products.

These cosmetic or dermatological products contain a structured liquid fatty phase, namely gelled and / or stiffened using waxes and / or fillers. Unfortunately, the waxes currently used give the composition a fatty and oily feel and / or a feeling of fat and heaviness. In addition, the manufacture of sticks with waxes often presents problems of reproducibility due to the variability of the melting points of the various waxes commercially available. By “liquid fatty phase”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant a fatty phase liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), composed of one or more lipophilic bodies liquid at room temperature , also called oils, generally compatible with each other. By "liquid lipophilic body" is meant a non-aqueous liquid medium, immiscible in any proportion with water.

However, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase makes it possible in particular to limit its exudation from solid compositions in particular in hot and humid regions and, in addition, to limit, after deposition on the skin or the lips, the migration of this phase in the wrinkles and fine lines on the skin, which is particularly sought after for a lipstick, a concealer or an eyeshadow. Indeed, a significant migration of the liquid fatty phase, in particular when it is loaded with coloring matters, leads to an unsightly effect around the lips and eyes, particularly accentuating wrinkles and fine lines. This migration is often cited by women as a major defect in lipsticks, concealer products and conventional eye shadows in sticks. By "migration" is meant an overflow of the composition outside the initial layout.

The structure of the liquid fatty phase and the limitation of its exudation increases with the rate of waxes. In addition, the migration of the deposit on the skin or the lips decreases when the level of waxes increases. Thus, the level of these structural agents is a brake on the comfort and the lightness of the makeup products in stick.

In addition, the majority of makeup or care compositions, when applied to the skin, the eyelashes or the lips, have the drawback of transferring, that is to say of depositing at least in part, by leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be put in contact, and in particular a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or the skin. It follows a mediocre persistence of the applied film, requiring to regularly renew the application of the composition, in particular foundation or lipstick. However, to date, users want to beautify their face, including the lips, and their body by spending as little time as possible. Furthermore, the appearance of these unacceptable traces, in particular on the blouse collars, may exclude certain women from the use of this type of makeup.

For several years, cosmeticians have been interested in lipstick compositions and more recently in foundation compositions "without transfer". So the In its patent application JP-A-61 -65809, Shiseido company considered lipstick compositions "without transfer" containing a siloxysilicate resin (with a three-dimensional network), a volatile silicone oil with a cyclic silicone chain and pulverulent fillers. Likewise, the company Noevier described in document JP-A-62- 61911 compositions of lipstick, eyeliner, "non-transfer" foundation comprising one or more volatile silicones associated with one or more waxes. hydrocarbon.

These compositions, although having improved "no transfer" properties, have the drawback of leaving on the lips, after evaporation of the silicone oils, a film which becomes uncomfortable over time (feeling of drying and tightness), spreading a number of women of this type of lipstick.

The Revlon company also envisaged in document US-A-5837223 to associate a fluorinated Guerbet ester with a siloxysilicate resin and volatile solvents such as cyclic silicones. The presence of siloxysilicate resin also leads to uncomfortable (dry) films.

In application EP-A-775483 from the company L'oréal, there are described compositions of liquid lipsticks containing an aqueous continuous medium containing a polymer dispersion capable of forming a continuous glossy film "without transfer" on the lips . Unfortunately, these compositions lead to a film on the lips, constantly moving, uncomfortable and imparting a feeling of tightness. In addition, it is very difficult to introduce pigments into these compositions without destabilizing them.

In application EP-A-0749746 from the company L'oréal, lipstick compositions are described containing a dispersion of polymer particles stabilized on the surface by a polymeric stabilizer. These compositions have the drawback of being able to contain only a small proportion of polar oils, known to provide shine as well as comfort to the film deposited in conventional compositions. In particular, the presence of a large proportion of polar oils (at least 5%) cause flocculation of the particles and therefore instability over time of the compositions.

There therefore remains a need for a composition which does not have the above drawbacks, and which in particular has improved non-migration, "no transfer" properties, good resistance over time, and does not dry out and taut the skin or the lips to which it is applied, both during application and over time. In addition, this composition is stable over time even in hot and humid countries, easy to manufacture and the introduction of pigments is easy. In addition, this composition gives the deposit a feeling of comfort, lightness and non-greasiness.

The subject of the invention is precisely a composition for caring for and / or making up and / or treating the skin and / or the lips of the face and / or the integuments making it possible to remedy the drawbacks mentioned above.

Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the use of particular low molecular weight polymers, associated in particular with one or more lipophilic liquid bodies, made it possible to obtain a composition, in particular a stick, the application of which on the lips or the skin led to a deposit having remarkable cosmetic properties. In particular, the deposition of this composition on the skin or the lips is flexible, comfortable, non-greasy, light, non-migrating and non-drying. In addition, the composition is stable over time, does not exude at room temperature and does not present any manufacturing difficulty. The texture of this composition is, moreover, creamy and creamy.

In addition, in the presence of volatile solvent, the composition exhibits remarkable "non-transfer" properties.

By stable is meant a composition which does not exude at room temperature for at least 2 months, or even up to 9 months, that is to say a composition in which the liquid fatty phase does not leave the composition (not -appearance of oil droplets on the surface).

The invention applies not only to lip makeup products, such as stick lipsticks, lip products sold in jars or bottles and lip pencils, but also to skin care and / or treatment products. the skin, including the scalp, and the lips, such as the products in particular of sun protection stick for the skin of the face or the lips, the care products for the face or the human body, to the skin makeup products, also good for the face as well as for the human body, such as foundations that may have been poured into sticks or cups, concealer products, eyeshadows and temporary tattoo products, body hygiene products such as deodorants, in particular sticks, shampoos and conditioners, and eye makeup products such as eyeliners, pencils and mascaras, more particularly in the form of bread, as well as care products and make-up of the integuments such as keratin fibers such as the hair and the eyebrows.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a composition containing a liquid lipophilic body and an organic polymeric compound comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, the organic polymeric compound having a molecular mass weight average less than 1000, the lipophilic body and the organic compound forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

In particular, the composition of the invention is structured by the organic polymeric compound with a heteroatom. In other words, this polymeric compound, also called polymer, is a gelling agent for the liquid fatty phase of the composition, and in particular for the liquid lipophilic body. This polymeric compound is therefore a lipophilic organic compound.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention does not contain silicone resin with siloxysilicate units or trimethylated silica, in order to preserve the comfort properties of the composition.

The lipophilic liquid body constitutes all or part of the liquid fatty phase of the composition.

The composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, a solid, a more or less viscous cream. It can be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a rigid or flexible anhydrous gel. Preferably, the liquid fatty phase forms the continuous or external phase of the composition. In particular, it is in anhydrous form, in particular poured in a stick or in a cup and more especially in the form of a rigid anhydrous gel, in particular an anhydrous stick. It can also be in the form of a solid emulsion, Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase contains at least one volatile solvent. This volatile solvent represents in particular the liquid lipophilic body.

The gelation of the liquid fatty phase and in particular of the liquid lipophilic body can be modulated according to the nature of the heteroatom polymer used, and may be such that a rigid structure is obtained in the form of a stick or a stick. These sticks when they are colored allow, after application, to obtain a uniform deposit in color, neither greasy nor dry, does not migrate, does not transfer in particular to a support applied in contact with the film, after evaporation of the volatile solvent. (if present) and of good behavior, in particular color over time. The composition also has a creamy appearance and gives a powdery makeup.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention is a composition for the skin or the lips and better still a composition of foundation, concealer product or lipstick, in particular in the form of a stick.

The structuring polymeric compound of the composition of the invention is a non-deformable solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By "polymeric compound" or "polymer" is meant within the meaning of the invention a compound having at least 2 repeating units, namely 2 or more units. Preferably, these patterns are 2 in number.

By "carbon repeating units" with a heteroatom, is meant within the meaning of the invention a unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, carrying hydrogen atoms, which may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. These motifs each each comprise, in addition, at least one group capable of forming interactions or hydrogen bonds, namely one or more groups capable of forming these interactions, and better still at least two groups, capable of forming these interactions. Each group comprises at least one (namely one to several) heteroatom. These heteroatoms are chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus atoms and their associations. In particular, these heteroatoms are chosen from nitrogen, sulfur and their associations, and better still nitrogen, possibly associated with one or more oxygen atoms. As a group capable of forming hydrogen interactions of the polar part of the organic polymeric compound, which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the amide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, hydroxyl group, their associations. Advantageously, one or more of the heteroatoms of the groups capable of forming hydrogen interactions are non-pendant and form an integral part of the polymer backbone of the polymeric compound. Preferably, these non-pendant heteroatoms are nitrogen atoms.

In particular, the carbon repeating units with a heteroatom are amide units forming a skeleton of the polyamide type, thiocarbamate, carbamate, thiourea and / or urea units forming a polyurethane, polyurea, poly thiourea, poly thiourethane and / or polyurea-urethane skeleton. . Preferably, these units are amide units. In particular, these amide units are 2 in number.

Between the carbon repeating units or at the end of the polymer backbone, or both, the polymer can comprise silicone units or oxyalkylene units.

The polymeric compound comprises at least one lipophilic part, namely one or more lipophilic parts. Advantageously, the lipophilic part or parts can be pendant or at the end of the polymer backbone. In the case of a pendant lipophilic part, this is linked directly to at least one of the heteroatoms of the polymer backbone.

In addition, the carbon or silicone chain (s) of these lipophilic parts can comprise functionalized parts. The term “functionalized parts” chain within the meaning of the invention means a carbon or silicone chain comprising at least one (one or more) functional or reactive group, in particular chosen from amide, hydroxyl, ether, ester, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups , halogen, including fluorinated or perfluorinated or perfluoroalkoxylated groups, ester. In addition, part of the carbon chains can be substituted by a siloxane or polysiloxane group.

In addition, the polymeric compound of the composition of the invention advantageously comprises from 40 to 98% of carbon or silicone chains relative to the total number of heteroatom units and respectively carbon or silicone chains and better still from 50 to 95%. The nature and proportion of the heteroatom units depends on the nature of the liquid fatty phase and is in particular similar to the nature of the fatty phase. Thus, the more polar and in high proportion the carbon repeating units with a heteroatom, which corresponds to the presence of several heteroatoms, the more the polymer has affinity with polar oils. On the other hand, the more the carbon units with hetero atoms are not very polar or even apolar or in low proportion, the more the polymer has the affinity with non-polar oils.

Advantageously, the polymeric organic compound according to the invention comprises at least two lipophilic parts, preferably situated on either side of the polar part and in particular of the polyamide skeleton. It may however include a lipophilic part at the end of the polymer backbone and a pendant lipophilic part. It can also include a lipophilic part at each end of the polar part and one or more pendant lipophilic parts.

The lipophilic part or parts of the organic polymer compound according to the invention each advantageously comprise a carbon chain, in particular alkyl or alkoxy, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 40 atoms of carbon.

The subject of the invention is also a structured composition containing at least one liquid lipophilic body structured by at least one polyamide of average molecular mass by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having at least two amide repeating units, and b) at least one pendant carbon chain and / or at least one terminal carbon chain optionally functionalized, having at least four carbon atoms, these chains being linked to these amide units, this lipophilic body and this polyamide forming a physiologically acceptable medium. Advantageously, this polyamide comprises two carbon chains located on either side of the amide units. These carbon chains are as described above.

Lipophilic organic polymeric compounds The polymeric compounds of the composition of the invention advantageously have a softening temperature above 65 ° C and up to 190 ° C. Preferably, it has a softening temperature ranging from 70 to 130 ° C. These polymers are in particular non-waxy and / or non-crystalline polymers.

Advantageously, the compounds according to the invention comprise a weight-average molecular mass greater than 200, and better still greater than 250, or even greater than 290. As lipophilic organic polymeric compound of weight average molecular mass (PM) <1000 usable in the invention, mention may be made of polymers comprising a polar part comprising:

a) at least two heteroatoms in the polymer backbone, preferably two nitrogen which are preferably in the form of bonds: O

II. amide, or - C - N (R) - with R = H or alkyl to C ₅₀ and more preferably C _T -C _0;

urethane, either - O- C- NH- or thiocarbamate, or - S-C-NH-

. urea, either - NH- C- NH- or biuret - NH - C - N (R) - C - NH - or thiourea, with R a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and

b) at least one terminal lipophilic chain and / or a lateral lipophilic chain linked to one of these units a) and which can be:

. a carbon chain, in particular a hydrocarbon chain, having 8 to 60 carbon atoms, optionally functionalized, and better still 12 to 40 carbon atoms, this chain being in particular an alkyl or alkoxy chain,

. a silicone chain of the polyorganosiloxane type, optionally comprising C 1 to C ₃₀ and C ₆ to C ₂ alkyl or alkoxy radicals or phenyl radicals,

. the hydrocarbon chain or the silicone chain which can be fluorinated or perfluorinated, namely all or part of the hydrogen atoms which can be substituted by a fluorine atom

. or a mixture of these lipophilic chains.

The carbon chain and the alkyl or alkoxy radicals can be linear, branched, saturated or not and can be cyclic or not.

/) Organic compounds with an amide group These organic polymeric compounds with amide groups have at least two amide groups in the backbone.

1) If they only contain two amide groups in the polymer backbone (which corresponds to the compound of the examples), they result from the amidation reaction between:

| -Rri. (i) a diamine of any kind of formula H ₂ N- Ri- NH ₂ or HN - NH

II (if cyclic diamine) with R 1 a linear or branched or cyclic alkyl radical having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, such as for example ethylene diamine, propylene diamine, 1, 6 -diamino hexane, cyclohexane diamine, isophorone diamine, 2 methyl-1,5 pentane diamine, 1,12-diamino dodecane, phenylene diamine (including isomers 1, 2 or 1, 3 or 1, 4 ), such as for example adamantane diamine,

. (ii) at least one (one or more) mono-carboxylic acid of formula R ₂ -COOH with at least one of mono-acids having an alkyl group R ₂ , linear or branched or cyclic, saturated or not of at least 8 atoms of carbon in particular from 8 to 60 carbon atoms (for example from C ₁₂ to C ₄₀ ), such as for example decanoic, dodecanoic (lauric), hexadecanoic (palmitic) acid. At least one of these monoacids preferably also has at least one hydroxyl group, for example 12-hydroxystearic acid.

. If the reaction contains only one monoacid of type R ₂ - COOH, the resulting diamide is obtained as follows:

H ₂ N-Rι-NH ₂ + 2 R ₂ -COOH → Rz-C-NH-Ri-NH-C-Rz

. If the reaction contains two different monoacids of the type respectively:

R ₂ - COOH and R ₃ - COOH, (with R ₃ different from R ₂ , representing a C ₈ -C ₆ alkyl group as defined for R-,), the resulting product is a mixture of:

O O

In a variant for obtaining the polymeric compound, the latter can result from trans amidification between:

. a diamine as specified above (point i) and,

. a monoacid of the oil or fatty ester type comprising at least one carboxylic acid ester group having an alkyl group R ₂ in C ₈ to C ₆ o for example in Cι ₂ to C ₀ , linear, branched, cyclic, saturated or not. By way of example, there may be mentioned the esters of unsaturated mono hydroxyl aliphatic monoacids such as the esters of ricinoleic acid (or 12-hydroxy (cis) 9-octadecenoic acid) such as butyl ricinoleate, octyl dodecyl ricinoleate , cetyl ricinoleate, tri glyceryl ricinoleate (castor oil); esters of saturated linear mono hydroxy aliphatic monoacids such as: esters of lactic acid such as isostearyl lactate, lactate derived from C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ alcohol, octyl dodecyl lactate, lactate oleyl, myristyl lactate, ethyl 2 hexyl palmitate; esters of 12-hydroxy octadecanoic acid (or 12-hydroxy stearic) such as 12-hydroxy ethyl 2-hexyl stearate, 12-hydroxy octyl docecyl stearate, 12-hydroxy isostearyl stearate, Isodecyl 12-hydroxy stearate, glyceryl tri 12-hydroxy stearate (or hydrogenated castor oil), dipentaerythrityl hexa 12-hydroxy stearate; and their mixtures.

Preferably, hydrogenated monohydroxylated esters are used, and in particular triglycerides in general, preferably hydrogenated, such as hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated 14-eicosenoic acid (lesirolic acid). In the case of the reaction between a triglyceride and a diamine of the type + H ₂ N-Rι-NH _2, the following compounds can be obtained:

CH ₂ - O - CO - R ₂

I

CH - O - CO - R ₂ + H ₂ N - Ri - NH ₂ →

CH ₂ - O - CO - R ₂

Mixture of CH ₂ - O - CO - R ₂

I

Unreacted CH - O - CO - R ₂

CH _? - O - CO - R ₂

O O

+ CH ₂ - OH CH ₂ - O - COR ₂

I I

CH - O - CO - R ₂ + CHOH

CH ₂ - OH CH ₂ - OH

+ partial hydrolysis products supplementing those indicated above

OII

2) If the polymeric compounds with amide groups contain several amide groups in the polymer backbone, they can result from amidification between: a diamine of formula H ₂ N - Ri - NH ₂ as defined above, . a HOOC - R ₄ - COOH diacid (or a mixture of diacids) with R ₄ representing (CH ₂ ) _n or n is from 8 to 60 (in particular 12 to 40) or an aryl or alkyl aryl group having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of linear acids such as adipic or sebacic acid or aromatic acids such as phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, fatty acid dimers,

. at least one monacid R ₂ - COOH as defined above (point 1 (ii).

The final product then has the structure:

R ₂ - CO - NH - Ri - NH - [CO - R ₄ - CO - NH - Ri - NH] ^ CO - R ₂ with x being from 0 to 4; when x = 0, this means that there is no reaction with a diacid of the HOOC - R _A - COOH type.

3) Organic compounds with an amide group comprising silicone parts The silicone derivatives can be obtained either by reacting:. a diamine comprising silicone groups, for example of the type (A):

with a ranging from 1 to 18 and y ranging from 1 to 10. In this case the Si-O groups are then found in the polymer backbone;

as an example of a compound corresponding to formula A, mention may be made of the product Tégomer A-Si 2122 sold by the company Goldschmidt;

. or a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) having only one functional end in the reaction mixture, this end possibly being a carboxylic acid, amino or epoxy group. As an example of PDMS with an amino group which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the products KF-864 and KF-865 from Shin Etsu. As an example of PDMS with an epoxy group which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the products KF-100T and KF-101 from Shin Etsu and as an example of PDMS with a carboxylic acid group which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the products X- 22-3701 by Shin Etsu,

with one or more carboxylic acids defined above. II) Compounds with a urethane, thiourethane, thiourea or urea group The polymeric compounds with urethane, thiouretane, thiourea or urea groups result from the reaction:

. a diisocyanate (instead of the diamine) of formula OCN - R'i - NCO (with for R'i the same definition as for Ri)

. with a compound more generally a hydrogen donor, preferably of the alcohol, amino or thiol type.

1) Compounds with urethane groups: a) With only two urethane groups in the chain, the polymeric compound is obtained as follows:

2R ' ₂ - OH + OCN - R'i - NCO → R' ₂ - O - C - NH - R'i - NH - C - O - R ' ₂

I l I I O O

Here R ′ ₂ -OH is a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₆₀ fatty alcohol, in particular C ₂ to C ₄₀ , which may include unsaturations or cycles or mixture of fatty alcohols of which at least one of them has from 8 to 30 carbon atoms such as, for example, decanol, docecanol.

The diisocyanate can be aliphatic (example: hexamethylene di isocyanate) or cylcloaliphatic (example: isophorone diisocyanate) or aromatic (example: toluene diisocyanate, diphenyl methane diisocyanate. The diisocyanate can contain from 3 to 60 carbon atoms.

b) With more than two urethane groups in the chain:

The polymeric compound results from the reaction for example between:

. a diisocyanate of formula OCN - R'i - NCO with linear or branched RS of 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still of 2 to 40 carbon atoms,

. a diol or mixture of diols of formula HO - R ' ₃ - OH, with R' ₃ having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. As an example of a diol, mention may be made of 1, 4 butane diol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, (the diol may or may not be lipophilic), . at least one monoalcohol, preferably lipophilic of the R ' ₂ - OH type with R' ₂ C ₈ to C ₃₀ alkylene.

The compound then has the following structure:

R ' ₂ -O - C - NH - R'i - NH [C - O - R' ₃ - O - C - NH - R'i - NH] _Z - C - O - R ' ₂

with z going from 0 to 4. For z = 0 there is no diol of the HO - R ' ₃ - OH type.

Instead of the monoalcohol or the diol indicated in a) and b), an oil bearing one or more OH groups may be used. By way of example, there may be mentioned as oil with a single OH the esters of citric, lactic acid or of 14-eicosenoic acid (lesirolic acid) and as oil with three OH, castor oil or acid ricinoleic.

2) Urea grouping compound

Obtaining a polymeric compound from urea is identical to that of urethanes, but this time the diisocyanate is reacted with a mono amine or a diamine to give:

a) 2 R ₅ - NH ₂ + OCN - R'i - NCO → R ₅ - NH - C - NH - R'i - NH - C - NH - R ₅

OOR ₅ NH ₂ is an amino in C ₆ to C ₀ , linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or not, and better in Cι ₂ to C ₃ o

b) R ₅ NH ₂ + H ₂ N - R ₃ - NHi + OCN - R'i - NCO →

R ₅ - NH - C - NH - R'i - NH - [C - NH - R, - NH - C - NH - R'i - NH], - C- NH - R ₅

He II II II

O o O O

With t ranging from 0 to 4; when t = 0, the reaction is carried out in the absence of diamine. c) For a polymeric compound with a urea or urethane group, it is also possible in this case to have siloxane units. In this case, the diisocyanate is reacted with a:. polysiloxane having a single alcohol (or silanol) end or a single amino end. As an example of a polysiloxane with a single NH ₂ group, there may be mentioned the products KF-864, KF-865, KF-868, KF-8003 from Shin-Etsu. As an example of a polysiloxane with a single alcohol end, mention may be made of the products X-22-4015 from Shin-Etsu.

. or difunctional polysiloxane, for example of type (B):

or of type (C)

with a = 1 to 18 and n = from 1 to 10.

When the repeating units are urea units, the lipophilic parts at the end of the polymer backbone are not linked by a urethane group.

As an example of product (B), mention may be made of the product Tégomer A-Si 2122 and as an example of product (C) the product Tégomer H-Si 2311, sold by Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the polymeric compound is a polyamide resulting from the amidation of a triglyceride with a diamine optionally in the presence of a C ₂ to C ₄₀ monoacidic carboxylic acid. This compound is in particular that described in document EP-A-0 984 025. The triglyceride is in particular a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms such as ricinoleic acid (or castor oil) and the monocarboxylic acid is in particular 12-hydroxystearic acid. The diamine is in particular ethylene diamine. Such a product is notably marketed under the name of Crayvallac SF or Crayvallac MT by the company Cray Valley Limited. Amphiphilic compound

Advantageously, the polymeric compound is associated with at least one amphiphilic liquid and non-volatile compound at room temperature, with a hydrophilic / lipophilic balance value (HLB) of less than 12 and in particular ranging from 1 to 8 and preferably from 1 to 5. According to the invention, one or more amphiphilic compounds can be used. The purpose of these amphiphilic compounds is to reinforce the structuring properties of the heteroatom polymer, to facilitate the implementation of the polymer and to improve the ability to deposit the stick.

The hardness can be measured by the so-called butter cutting wire method, which consists of cutting an 8.1 mm lipstick stick and measuring the hardness at 20 ° C, using a DFGHS 2 dynamometer. Indelco-Chatillon moving at a speed of 100mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in grams) necessary to cut a stick under these conditions. According to this method, the hardness of a stick composition according to the invention ranges from 30 to 300 g, in particular from 30 to 250 g and for example from 50 to 200 g.

The hardness of the composition according to the invention is such that the composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and / or the lips and / or the integuments. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention resists impact well.

According to the invention, the composition in the form of stick has the behavior of a deformable and flexible elastic solid, giving the application a remarkable elastic softness. The stick compositions of the prior art do not have this property of elasticity and flexibility.

The amphiphilic compound or compounds which can be used in the composition of the invention comprise a lipophilic part linked to a polar part, the lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain having at least 8 carbon atoms in particular, from 18 to 40 carbon atoms and better still from 18 to 32 carbon atoms. Preferably, the polar part of this or these amphiphilic compounds is the remainder of a compound chosen from alcohols and polyols having from 1 to 12 hydroxyl groups, polyoxyalkylenes comprising at least 2 oxyalkylenated units and having from 0 to 20 oxypropylenated units and / or from 0 to 20 oxyethylene units. In particular, the amphiphilic compound is an ester chosen from hydroxy stearates, oleates, iso-stearates of glycerol, of sorbitan or methylglucose or else branched fatty alcohols in Cι ₂ to C ₂ β such as octyldodecanol and their mixtures. Among these esters, monoesters and mixtures of mono- and di-esters are preferred.

The level of amphiphilic compound and that of the heteroatom polymeric compound are chosen according to the gel hardness desired and according to the particular application envisaged. The respective amounts of polymer and of amphiphilic compound must be such that they allow obtaining a disintegrating stick. In practice, the amount of polymeric compound represents from 0.5 to 80% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 5 to 40%. The amount of amphiphilic compound represents in practice from 0.1% to 35% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 1% to 15%, if it is present.

Liquid fatty phase

Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase of the composition contains more than 30% of lipophilic body (s) liquid or oil (s), of hydrocarbon type (s), silicone (s) and / or fluorine (s), and better still 40 100 %.

For a polymeric compound comprising a partly silicone skeleton, this fatty phase preferably contains more than 30% of the total weight of the liquid fatty phase and better still from 40 to 80%, of oil or mixture of liquid silicone oils, relative the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.

Liquid lipophilic bodies or hydrocarbon oils within the meaning of the invention are polar oils capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the polymeric compound. They mainly contain carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly hydroxyl, ether, ester, carboxylic acid groups.

In particular, the hydrocarbon-based liquid lipophilic oils or bodies of the invention are: - hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which can have various C4 chain lengths at C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor, sweet almonds, macadamia, apricot, soy, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, avocado, hazelnut, grape or blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; - synthetic oils or synthetic esters of formula R5COOR6 in which R5 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R6 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R5 + R6 is> 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, isopropyl myristate, palmitate d ethyl 2-hexyl, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;

- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - C8 to C26 fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol;

- their mixtures.

Liquid lipophilic bodies or silicone oils within the meaning of the invention are polar oils capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the polymeric compound.

Among these liquid lipophiles or silicone oils within the meaning of the invention, mention may be made of silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are liquid at room temperature, linear, optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, liquid 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, optionally substituted by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups such as alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms and optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amino groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes such as dimethicones copolyols or alkylmethicones copolyols; liquid fluorinated silicones; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; and their mixtures. Among these liquid lipophiles or silicone oils within the meaning of the invention, mention may also be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 mm2 / s and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Liquid lipophilic bodies or fluorinated oils within the meaning of the invention are polar oils capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the polymeric compound. They comprise at least one fluorinated compound chosen from fluorosilicone compounds, fluorinated polyethers and / or fluorinated alkanes.

Preferably, such a liquid lipophilic body or fluorinated oil comprises at least one fluorosilicone compound of formula (I):

in which :

R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,

Rf represents a fluoroalkyl radical, in particular a perfluoroalkyl radical, having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- R1 represent, independently of one another, a C1-C20 alkyl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a phenyl radical,

- m is chosen from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100, and

- n is chosen from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100. Mention may in particular be made, as fluorosilicone compounds of formula (I), of those which are marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the names' X22-819 ',' X22-820 ',' X22-821 'and' X22-822 'or even' FL-100.

As other fluorinated compound which can enter into the composition of liquid lipophilic bodies or fluorinated oils, mention may in particular be made of fluorinated polyethers of formula (II) below:

R6 - (CF2-CFR3-CF2O) p - (CFR4-CF2-O) q - (CFR5-O) r - R7 (II)

in which :

- R3 to R6 represent, independently of one another, a monovalent radical chosen from -F, - (CF2) n-CF3, and -O- (CF2) n-CF3,

- R7 represents a monovalent radical chosen from -F and - (CF2) n-CF3, - with n ranging from 0 to 4 inclusive,

- p ranging from 0 to 600, q ranging from 0 to 860, r ranging from 0 to 1500, and p, q and r being integers chosen so that the molecular weight by weight of the compound is from 500 to 100,000 , preferably between 500 to 10,000.

Such compounds are in particular described in patent EP-A-196904.

Among the commercial products which can be used in the present invention as a fluorinated compound, mention may be made of Fomblins from the company Montefluos, and Demnum S from the company Daikin Industries.

Mention may also be made, as fluorinated compounds capable of being used in the context of the present invention, of fluorinated alkanes, such as perfluoroalkanes and fluoroalkanes in C2-C50, and in particular those in C5-C30, such as perfluorodecaline, perfluoroadamantane and bromoperfluorooctyle and their mixtures.

Apolar oils can be combined with these polar oils in small quantities (from 0 to 20% and in particular from 0 to 10% by weight). The nonpolar oils according to the invention are in particular silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS). volatile or not, linear or cyclic, liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyl trirhethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin such as paraffin oils, volatile or non-volatile, and its derivatives, petrolatum, liquid lanolin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; and their mixtures. Preferably, the structured oils, and more especially those structured by the polyamides and in particular those of formulas (I) or the polyurethanes or the polyureas or the polyureas-polyureas-urethanes, are nonpolar oils and more especially an oil or a mixture of oils of the hydrocarbon type of mineral or synthetic origin, chosen in particular from hydrocarbons, in particular alkanes such as parlameam oil, isoparaffins such as isododecane and squalane and their mixtures. Advantageously, these oils are combined with one or more phenylated silicone oils.

Preferably, the liquid fatty phase contains at least one non-volatile oil chosen in particular from hydrocarbon oils of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers, silicone oils and their mixtures.

The total liquid fatty phase represents, in practice, from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 75%.

The liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the invention also contains at least one volatile solvent, namely one or more volatile solvents.

By "volatile solvent" is meant within the meaning of the invention any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent (s) of the invention are organic solvents and in particular volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 10 ^"3 to 300mm Hg and preferably greater than 0.3mm Hg.

According to the invention, these volatile solvents facilitate, in particular, the application of the composition to the skin, the lips or the integuments. These solvents can be hydrocarbon solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising pendant or alkoxy alkyl groups or at the end of the silicone chain or a mixture of these solvents. Preferably, these solvents are not monoalcohols with at least 7 carbon atoms.

As volatile solvent which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisil tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

As another volatile solvent which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C ₈ -C ₆ alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins). C ₈ - Ciβ, Pisododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of "lsopars" or Permyls, the branched esters of C ₈ -Cι ₆ such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures. These solvents can optionally be mixed with volatile silicone oils. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents.

Preferably, isododecane (Peutyls 99 A) is used, C ₈ -Cι ₆ isoparaffins (Isopars L, E, H), their mixtures, possibly associated with cyclopentasiloxane or decamethyl tetrasiloxane.

These volatile oils represent in particular a mass rate of 5 to 97.5% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 75% and better still from 15 to 45%. Generally, the amount of volatile solvent is used in an amount sufficient to obtain non-transfer properties. This quantity will be adapted by a person skilled in the art as a function of the intensity of the desired non-transfer properties. additives

The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, chosen in particular from coloring matters, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, pasty products at room temperature, neutralizers, liposoluble or dispersible polymers in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, anti-free radicals, dispersants such as poly (12-hydroxystearic) acid, and mixtures thereof. These additives can be present in the composition at a rate of 0 to 20% (in particular from 0.01 to 20%) of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.01 to 10%. Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient.

The composition of the invention can, in addition, contain as additive an aqueous phase containing water optionally thickened or gelled by a thickener or a gelling agent of aqueous phase and optionally compounds miscible with water.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not affected by the addition envisaged.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dermatological tinted composition or for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, in the form of a composition for sun protection or for personal hygiene. in particular in the form of a deodorant or make-up removing product in the form of a stick. It can in particular be used as a care base for the skin, the integuments or the lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from the cold and / or from the sun and / or wind, care cream for the skin, the nails or the hair). The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored product for making up the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treatment properties, a blush, a blush or eyelids, concealer, eyeliner, body makeup; make-up of the lips such as a lipstick, possibly having care or treatment properties; make-up of the integuments such as the nails, the eyelashes in particular in the form of a bread mascara, the eyebrows and the hair in particular in the form of a pencil.

Of course, the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, ie contain a physiologically acceptable medium which is non-toxic and capable of being applied to the skin, the integuments or the lips of human beings. By cosmetically acceptable is meant within the meaning of the invention a composition of pleasant appearance, odor, taste and feel.

Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic active and / or one dermatological active and / or at least one coloring matter. Thanks to the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymer of average molecular mass by weight less than 1000, as defined above, a trapping of the active agents and the coloring materials present in the composition is obtained, allowing to maintain them where they were applied, namely the lips, the skin or the integuments such as keratin fibers, after evaporation of the volatile solvent (s), and to limit their transfer or redeposition on a support different from that on which they have been applied.

The coloring matter according to the invention can be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This coloring material is generally present in an amount of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 30%, if it is present.

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto. They can represent from 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%. The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments can represent from 0.1 to 50% and better still from 2 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, if they are present.

The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can represent from 0.1 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 15%, if they are present.

The composition can, in addition, contain at least one filler (one or more) in order to obtain a matte product, which is particularly sought for foundations and in particular, for foundations or day cream for people with oily skin. By "filler" is meant any solid particle at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, used alone or in combination which does not react chemically with the various ingredients of the composition and which are insoluble in these ingredients, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature higher than room temperature and in particular their softening temperature or their melting temperature. These inert fillers have melting temperatures at least above 170 ° C and better still above 200 ° C. They may or may not be absorbent, that is to say capable in particular of absorbing the oils of the composition as well as the biological substances secreted by the skin. Preferably, these fillers have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 to 150 μm, preferably from 0.5 to 120 μm and better still from 1 to 80 μm. An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle in which the elementary particle is inscribed according to its smallest dimension (thickness for lamellae).

The fillers which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be mineral or organic, lamellar, spherical or oblong. We can cite talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon® (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine powders, polyethylene, acrylic polymer and in particular poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA) like that sold by Wackherr under the reference Covabead LH-85 (particle size 10-12 μm) or acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyl-lysine, boron nitride, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), polymeric hollow microspheres (Tospearl® from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydro -magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® by Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, polyester particles and their mixtures. These fillers can be treated on the surface, in particular to make them lipophilic.

The composition may optionally contain one or more waxes to improve the structuring in the form of a stick, although this rigid form can be obtained in the absence of wax. A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above 45 ° C. and better still above 55 ° C up to 200 ° C, and having an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. The size of the crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixed. It is this recrystallization from the mixture which is responsible for the reduction in the gloss of said mixture. Also, advantageously the composition contains little or no wax, and in particular less than 5% of wax.

The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured by the "Dynamic Scanning Colorimetry" method with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C / min.

Waxes, in the sense of demand, are those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; they are especially of natural origin such as beeswax, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury, Japanese wax, cork fibers or sugarcane, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, but also of synthetic origin such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and concrete glycerides at 40 ° C, silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or esters poly (di) methylsiloxane solid at 40 ° C. Preferably, waxes of synthetic origin are used for reasons of reproducibility greater than that of waxes of natural origin.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention also contains at least one liposoluble or dispersible polymer in the medium having in particular an average molecular weight of 500 to 1,000,000 and better still from 5,000 to 15,000. This or these liposoluble polymers contribute in particular to increase the viscosity and / or improve the behavior of the film. These liposoluble polymers advantageously have a softening temperature at most equal to 30 ° C.

As examples of liposoluble polymers used in the invention include: polyalkylenes, in particular polybutene, poly (meth) acrylates, alkylcellufoses with a linear alkyl or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, silicone polymers compatible with the fatty phase as well as vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers and their mixtures.

Preferably, the vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are used, the C ₂ to C ₃₀ and better C ₃ to C ₂₂ alkene copolymers, and their combinations. As an example of a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

Preferably, not only for the holding properties but also for the feel and consistency of the film, the PVP / hexadecene copolymer having an average molecular weight of 7000 to 7500 is used or PVP / eicosene having a mean molecular weight of 8000 at 9000.

The liposoluble or dispersible polymers of the composition of the invention are advantageously used in an amount of 0.01% to 20% (in active material) of the total weight of the composition and better from 1% to 10%, if they are present.

The composition according to the invention also advantageously contains at least one fatty compound which is pasty at room temperature. By "pasty fatty substance" within the meaning of the invention is meant fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55 ° C, preferably 25 to 45 ° C, and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured with Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz. Those skilled in the art can choose the mobile allowing to measure the viscosity, among the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.

According to the invention, one or more pasty fatty substances are used. Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of the polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated compounds; it can also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the pasty hydrocarbon compounds are preferably used in the majority proportion.

Among the pasty compounds capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 at 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 45 ° C and their mixtures. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35 ° C and / or viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0, 1 to 40 Pa.s) such as tri-isostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; cholesterol esters such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and their mixtures. As triglycerides of vegetable origin, it is possible to use derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as "THIXINR" from Rheox.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes

(PDMS) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 ° C., like the stearyl dimethicones in particular those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names of DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 1-45% by weight and even more preferably in an amount of 2- 30% by weight, in the composition, if they are present.

The composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. It can be manufactured by the process which consists in heating the polymer at least to its softening temperature, in adding the amphiphilic compound (s), the coloring matters and the additives thereto then mixing the whole until obtaining a clear, transparent solution. Then added to the mixture obtained, after lowering the temperature or volatile solvents. The homogeneous mixture obtained can then be poured into a suitable mold such as a lipstick mold or directly into the packaging articles (case or cup in particular).

The subject of the invention is also a foundation or lipstick stick composition containing at least one continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one volatile solvent, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least one non-waxy polymer giving the composition the appearance of a deformable, elastic solid, of hardness ranging from 30 to 50 g, in the absence of wax.

Advantageously, this lipstick or foundation composition in stick contains an additive chosen from fatty compounds which are pasty at room temperature, liposoluble polymers and their mixtures, as defined above. The non-waxy polymer is preferably a polymer the backbone of which comprises heteroatom hydrocarbon units, as defined above

More preferably, the composition is a foundation.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for, making up or treating keratin materials of human beings and in particular of the skin, lips and integuments, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition in particular cosmetic such as defined above. Another subject of the invention is the use of the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymeric compound of average molecular weight by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two units carbon repeats comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain with at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, in order to reduce the transfer and / or the deposit of traces of a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials, on a support brought into contact with said film and / or increase the holding of said film. This film is, moreover, non-greasy, light and / or comfortable. The polymeric compound and the liquid lipophilic body are as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also the use of at least one polymeric compound of average molecular mass by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable, solid composition, containing a liquid lipophilic body, to reduce the greasy or oily feel of said composition.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for reducing the transfer and / or deposit of traces of a film of a physiologically acceptable composition, applied to keratin materials to a support brought into contact with said film and / or to increase holding said film, consisting in introducing into the composition the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymeric compound of average molecular weight by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two units carbon repeats comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain with at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain having at least two silicon atoms. The polymeric compound and the liquid lipophilic body are as defined above. The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. The percentages are given in percentage by mass.

Example 1: Solid anhydrous foundation

Crayvallac SF 8% Cyclopentasiloxane 31, 53% Octyldodecanol 35.47%

Pigments (brown iron oxide, yellow) coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 10% Polymethyl methacrylate 15%

The foundation is non-greasy, non-sticky. It does not exude at room temperature and has good non-transfer, hold and non-migration properties, properties comparable, according to experts, to those obtained with a lipstick without transfer of the prior art containing silicone resins, waxes and volatile silicone oils but with non-drying properties and an original powdery appearance.

Example 2: Crayvallac SF 8% anhydrous solid foundation

Cyclopentasiloxane 31, 53%

Isododecane 35.47% Pigments (brown iron oxide, yellow) coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 10% Polymethyl methacrylate 15%

The foundation has the same properties as those of Example 1.

Example 3: Crayvallac SF 10% anhydrous solid foundation

Phenyltrimethicone 32.94%

Octyldodecanol 37.06%

Pigments (brown iron oxide, yellow) coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 10% Polymethyl methacrylate 10% The foundation has the same properties as those of Example 1.

EXAMPLE 4 Solid Anhydrous Foundation

Crayvallac MT 10%

Isododecane 38.9%

Phenyltrimethicone 31.1%

Pigments (brown iron oxide, yellow) coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 10%

Tospearl 145A 10%

The foundation has the same properties as those of Example 1.

EXAMPLE 5 Foundation in Solid Emulsion

Crayvallac SF 12% Isododecane 24%

Octylpalmitate 24%

Sorbitan iso stearate 4%

Phenyltrimethicone 31, 1%

Pigments (brown, yellow, red iron oxide and titanium dioxide) coated with 10% aluminum stearoyl glutamate

Nylon 5%

Water 19.8%

0.8% magnesium sulphate

Methylparaben 0.4%

The foundation has the same properties as those of Example 1, as well as properties of freshness on application.

Procedure (for all examples 1 to 4): * Paste the pigments with 5 g of non-volatile oil for the formulas of examples 1, 3, 4. For example 2, the pasting is done with 3 g of isododecane. Grind the mixture in a three-cylinder mill;

* Add part of the oils to a pan heated to 110 ° C;

* 10 minutes later, start agitation using a Rayneri type agitator (moderate);

^* Incorporate all of the polymeric compound. Leave to stir for 15 min; * Add the pigment ground material and then shake for 10 min;

* Reduce the temperature to 100 ^C C and gently add the rest of the oils;

^* Wait 15 minutes and incorporate all of the polymethyl methacrylate. Leave to turn for 15 min and pour the preparation into molds to form foundation sticks.

Procedure (for Example 5):

* Paste the pigments 3 g of isododecane. Grind the mixture in a three-cylinder mill;

* Add the rest of sorbitan iso-stearate, octylpalmitate and the rest of isododecane in a pan heated to 115 ° C; * start agitation using a Rayneri type agitator (moderate); wait a bit and add the Crayvallac SF

* After 10 min, add the pigment ground material and then shake for 10 min;

* Incorporate nylon. Reduce the temperature to 90 ° C. Put all this mixture in a Moritz mixer; * aside, prepare the water in a beaker. Bring the temperature to 100 ° C and gently add the magnesium sulfate and the preservative (methylparaben). Reduce the temperature to 80 ° C then add everything to the pan.

* Homogenize with stirring for 5 minutes then pour.

EXAMPLE 6 Lipstick in Stick

Phase A

Crayvallac SF 20%

Phase B Jojoba oil 30%

Iso hydrogenated paraffin 30%

Phase C

Pigments (red iron oxide) 8.66% Octyldodecanol 11.34%

Phase C is ground with a three cylinder mill. At the same time, phase A is melted in the presence of phase B. When the mixture AB is clear, phase C is added. The whole is then left under stirring, at the melting temperature of AB, for 45 min, then poured in a lipstick mold in order to package it in an appropriate packaging item. The lipstick stick obtained is non-sticky, non-greasy, comfortable, creamy. It has been judged to have cosmetic properties (feel, appearance) equivalent to a commercial product "Rouge Absolu", sold by Lancôme, considered by experts to be a benchmark as a comfortable lipstick. This benchmark lipstick contains hydrocarbon oils (esters in particular), waxes (at least 10%), glycerin and pigments.

Claims

- 1. Composition containing a liquid lipophilic body and an organic polymeric compound comprising a) a polar part having at least two repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom , and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, the organic polymeric compound having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 1,000, the body lipophilic and the organic compound forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the group capable of forming hydrogen interactions is an amide, carbamate, urea, thiocarbamate, thiourea, hydroxyl or association group.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said heteroatom is the nitrogen atom.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic compound comprises at least two groups capable of forming hydrogen interactions.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic part comprises at least one functional or reactive group.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar part comprises at least two nitrogen which are in the form of bonds: O

I I

. amide, or - C - N (R) - with R = H or alkyl to C ₅₀ and more preferably from Ci to C _40.

urethane, either - O- C- NH- or thiocarbamate, or - SC-NH-

. urea, either - NH- C- NH, or biuret - NH - C - N (R) - C - NH - or thiourea, with R a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still from

2 to 40.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic part comprises an alkyl or alkoxy chain, linear or branched which may have unsaturations and / or rings, having from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic part comprises a silicone chain of the polyorganosiloxane type, optionally comprising C 1 to C ₃₀ and C ₆ to C ₂ alkyl or alkoxy radicals or phenyl radicals .

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic compound comprises at least two lipophilic parts located on either side of the polar part.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units are amide units.

11. Structured composition containing at least one liquid lipophilic body structured by at least one polyamide of average molecular mass by weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having at least two amide repeating units, and b) at least one chain pendant carbon and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal carbon chain, having at least four carbon atoms, these chains being linked to these amide units, this lipophilic body and this polyamide forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyamide comprises two carbon chains located on either side of the amide units.

13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the carbon chains contain from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

14. Composition according to one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that the amide units are two in number.

15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic polymeric compound or the polyamide results from the polymerization of a diamine comprising a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 40 carbon atoms with at least one monocarboxylic acid having an alkyl group of 8 to 60 carbon atoms.

16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the diamine is chosen from ethylene diamine, propylene diamine, 1,6-diamino hexane, cyclohexane diamine, isophorone diamine, 2 methyl-1,5 pentane diamine, 1,12-diamino dodecane, phenylene diamine.

17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the diamine is ethylene diamine.

18. Composition according to one of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the mono-carboxylic acid comprises at least one hydroxyl group.

19. Composition according to one of claims 15 to 18, characterized in that the mono-carboxylic acid comprises at least one ester group of carboxylic acid having a C ₈ to C ₆₀ alkyl group, in particular C ₂ to C ₄₀ .

20. Composition according to one of claims 15 to 19, characterized in that the mono carboxylic acid is chosen from esters of unsaturated mono hydroxyl aliphatic mono acids such as esters of ricinoleic acid; esters of saturated linear mono hydroxy aliphatic monoacids such as esters of lactic acid, ethyl 2 hexyl palmitate, esters of 12-hydroxy octadecanoic acid; their mixtures.

21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic polymeric compound or the polyamide results from the amidation of a triglyceride by a diamine optionally in the presence of a Cι ₂ to C ₀ carboxylic monoacid.

22. Composition according to claim 21, characterized in that the mono-carboxylic acid is 12-hydroxystearic acid and the triglyceride a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

23. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid lipophilic body is chosen from the following hydrocarbon compounds:

- hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths from C to C ₂ , the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor, sweet almonds, macadamia, apricot, soy, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, avocado, hazelnut, grape or blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier , passion flower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids; ;

- synthetic oils or synthetic esters of formula R ₅ COOR ₆ in which R ₅ represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₆ represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing 1 40 carbon atoms provided that R ₅ + R ₆ is> 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, Cι ₂ to C ₁ alcohol benzoate ₁ 5 , isopropyl myristate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- C ₈ to C ₂₆ fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol;

- their mixtures.

24. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid lipophilic body is chosen from the following silicone compounds: silicone oils which are liquid at room temperature, polysiloxanes modified with acids fatty, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes; liquid fluorinated silicones; triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 mm2 / s and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

25. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid lipophilic body is chosen from the following silicone compounds: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) liquid at room temperature, linear, phenyltrimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones , diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, liquid 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, optionally substituted by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups or by hydroxyl, thiol and / or amino groups; dimethicones copolyols, alkylmethicones copolyols; caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane trisiloxane mixtures.

26. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid lipophilic body is chosen from the following fluorinated compounds: fluorosilicone compounds, fluorinated polyethers and / or fluorinated alkanes.

27. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains at least one non-volatile oil chosen in particular from hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers, silicone and their mixtures.

28. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains a liquid fatty phase which represents from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 75%.

29. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the liquid lipophilic compound represents all or part of the liquid fatty phase.

30. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one volatile solvent.

31. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from hydrocarbon solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups or at the end of the silicone chain and mixtures of these solvents.

32. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

33. Composition according to one of claims 30 to 32, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from isododecane, C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoparaffins, their mixtures, optionally combined with decamethyl tetrasiloxane or cyclopentasiloxane.

34. Composition according to one of claims 30 to 33, characterized in that the volatile solvent is used in an amount sufficient to obtain transfer-free properties.

35. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one coloring matter.

36. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the coloring matter is chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments, nacres and their mixtures.

37. Composition according to claim 35 or 36, characterized in that the coloring matter is present in an amount of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 30%.

38. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one additive chosen from water, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, fatty compounds pasty at room temperature, neutralizers, liposoluble or dispersible polymers in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, dispersants, and mixtures thereof.

39. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one inert filler.

40. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a rigid gel, and in particular of an anhydrous stick.

41. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a solid emulsion.

42. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blush, deodorant or make-up remover, product for making up the body, eyeshadow or blush, concealer, shampoo, conditioner, sun protection, facial or body care product.

43. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation.

44. Cosmetic method for caring for, making up or treating keratin materials of human beings, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims.

45. Use of the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymeric compound of weight average molecular mass less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms , in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, for reduce the transfer and / or deposit of traces of a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials, on a support brought into contact with said film and / or increase the resistance of said film.

46. Use of at least one polymeric compound with an average molecular weight of less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least one group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two silicon atoms, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable, solid composition, containing a liquid lipophilic body, for reducing the fatty or oily feel of said composition.

47. Use according to one of claims 45 or 46, characterized in that the composition is anhydrous.

47. Use according to one of claims 44 to 46, characterized in that the polymeric compound is a polyamide comprising two lipophilic parts located on either side of the polyamide skeleton.

48. Cosmetic method for reducing the transfer and / or deposit of traces of a film of a physiologically acceptable composition, applied to keratin materials to a support brought into contact with said film and / or for increasing the hold of said film, consisting to introduce into the composition the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymeric compound of weight average molecular weight less than 1000, comprising a) a polar part having at least two carbon repeating units comprising at least a group capable of forming hydrogen interactions with the lipophilic body, this group comprising at least one heteroatom, and b) at least one lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain containing at least four carbon atoms or a silicone chain comprising at least two atoms silicon.