US3726288A

US3726288A - Process for setting hair using a preparation comprising a single fixative-thickener

Info

Publication number: US3726288A
Application number: US00169148A
Authority: US
Inventors: F Nowak; A Micchelli; G Legato
Original assignee: National Starch and Chemical Corp
Current assignee: Indopco Inc; Ingredion Inc
Priority date: 1971-08-04
Filing date: 1971-08-04
Publication date: 1973-04-10
Anticipated expiration: 1990-04-10

Abstract

A process for setting hair is disclosed comprising the steps of applying to the hair an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution of an interpolymer which functions both as a fixative for the hair and a thickening agent for the preparation, setting the hair in the desired configuration, and allowing the hair to dry while it is retained in the desired configuration.

Description

United States Patent 1191 Nowak etal.

1 51' Apr. 10, 1973 [73] Assignee; National Starch and Chemical Corporation, New York, NY. a

22 Filed: Aug.4, 1971 211 Appl. No.: 169,148

[52] U. S. Cl ..l32/7, 424/71 [5 l] Int. Cl. .Q ..A45d 7/04 [58] Field of Search ..132/7; 424/71, 47;

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,577,517 5/l97l Kubot 424/71 Hollub ..424/7l Bohac ..424/7 1 Primary Examiner-Antonio F. Guida Assistant Examiner-Gregory E. McNeil! Att0rneyThomas B. Graham [5 7 ABSTRACT A process for setting hair is disclosed comprising the steps of applying to the hair an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution of an interpolymer which functions both as a fixative for the hair and a thickening agent for the preparation, setting the hair in the 'desired configuration, and allowing the hair to dry while it is retained in the desired configuration.

6 Claims, No Drawings PROCESS FOR SETTING HAIR USING A PREPARATION COMPRISING A SINGLE FIXATIVE-THICKENER BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION This invention relates to a process for setting the hair in a desired configuration, and more particularly to hair setting processes using an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution of a carboxylated copolymer which serves both as a hair fixative and a thickening agent for the setting preparation.

A common type of hair setting preparation comprises an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic lotion or gel containing a film forming material which is applied to the hair which is then fixed in the desired configuration and allowed to dry. The film forming material or fixative is deposited on the individual hair filaments in the form of a microscopically thin layer which encases the hair filaments and by reason of its resistance to deformation tends to keep the hair in the configuration in which it has been set. Likewise, at places where the hair filaments cross or touch the dried fixative acts as an adhesive and binds the hair filaments together, thus helping to hold the proper set. Furthermore, the presence of the fixative film on the hair also imparts such desireable properties as body and smoothness. In order to be effective, the film forming ingredients of a hair setting composition must meet a number of rigid requirements. Thus, the films derived from these ingredients should be flexible and yet they should possess strength and elasticity; they should display good adhesion to hair so as to avoid dusting or flaking off with the passage of time or when the hair is subjected to stresses; they should not interfere with the combing and brushing of the hair; they should remain free of tack or gumminess under humid conditions; they should be clear, transparent, and glossy, and maintain their clarity on aging; they should maintain good anti-static properties; and, they should be easily removable by washing with water and either a soap or shampoo.

Natural gums, such as quince-seed and karaya gums, have been used as fixatives in hair setting lotions, but because of the disadvantages associated with such gums, e.g., variability from lot to lot, they have been generally replaced by synthetic film-forming materials. Thus, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, cellulose ethers such as methyl cellulose, and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, have been used as fixatives in hair setting lotions and gels. In many such products it has been necessary to add other agents to control the viscosity of the preparation either to provide a more convenient or pleasing product or to cause the preparation to be retained on the hair while the water vehicle evaporates. Typical thickening agents are water soluble polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with about I percent ofa polyallyl ether ofsucrose.

It has now been found that hair can be set using as a setting preparation an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution of a single interpolymer which serves both as a fixative for the hair and a thickener for the preparation.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of this invention to provide improved processes for setting hair using a hair setting preparation comprising a solution of a single material which serves both as a fixative for the hair and a thickener for the solution.

A further object is to provide hair setting preparations having an easily adjustable viscosity so that they are useful both as waveset gels and as waveset lotions.

The hair setting process of this invention comprises the steps of applying to the hair a preparation comprising an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution of a single fixative-thickener material, setting the hair in the desired configuration, and allowing the hair .to dry while it is held in said desirable configuration.

The hair setting preparation employed in the process of this invention is a aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution of and interpolymer made by polymerizing together monomers selected from three different types of monomers. The first type of monomer is a polymerizable, ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid; the second type of monomer is a polyunsaturated compound, having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, which serves as a crosslinking agent. The third type of monomer is selected from the group consisting of polymerizable amines, polymerizable amides, alkyl esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and hydroxy esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids. Mixtures of monomers of each type may be used in place of a single monomer where practicable, as will be evident to the skilled practitioner.

The hair setting preparation is prepared by dissolving the polymer in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium at a concentration of 0.3 to 4.0 percent, by weight, and neutralizing with an alkaline agent to a pH of 4.0 to I L0. The preparations made by this technique are ordinarily of very high viscosity and are suitable for use as waveset gels. If desired, however, preparations having a lower viscosity, which are more suitable for use as wave set lotions may be prepared by using polymers having a molecular weight lower than that of the gel-forming polymers, by using smaller quantities of alkaline agent than required for gel formation, or by adding to the preparation a salt.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution of a single fixative-thickener used in practicing the hair setting process of this invention comprises a solution of the fixative-thickener in water or a mixture of water and a lower molecular weight monoor polyhydric watermiscible alcohol such as ethanol or glycerol. The fixative-thickeners are used in amounts comprising 0.3 to 4.0 percent, by weight, of the total weight of the formulation and preferably in amounts of 0.5 to 2.0 percent.

The film-forming interpolymers utilizable as the fixative-thickener of the hairdressing preparations used in the process of this invention comprise moieties derived from three types of monomers. The first type of monomer, which may comprise 25 to 96 per cent, by weight of the interpolymer is a polymerizable, ethylenically unsaturated, carboxylic acid. The second type of monomer, which may comprise 0.2 to 2.0 percent, by weight, of the interpolymer, is a polyunsaturated monomer having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. The third type of monomer, which may comprise 4 to percent, by weight, of the interpolymer, is selected from the group consisting of polymerizable amines, polymerizable amides, alkyl esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and hydroxy esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids. Mixtures of monomers can be used in place of a single third monomer provided that all monomers are selected from the group defined above. The percentages of each of the three types of monomers are chosen so that the sum equals l per cent.

The polymerizable, unsaturated carboxylic acids used in the interpolymer fixative-thickener of the hair setting preparation are those which contain a double bond present in terminal position or a double bond activated by proximity to a carboxyl group. Such acids inelude acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, alphaand beta-chloro, -bromo, and -cyano acrylic acids, crotonic acid, beta-acryloxy propionic acid, alphaand beta-vinyl acrylic acids, alphaand betastyryl acrylic acids, alpha-beta isopropylidene propionic acid, sorbic acid, cinnamic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, mesaconic acid, aconitic acid, maleic anhydride and other anhydrides of the general formula wherein R and R are selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, halogen, cyanogen (-C 1? N), alkyl, aryl, alkaryl, aralkyl, and cycloaliphatic radicals, hydromuconic acid, g lutaconic acid, muconic acid, and the like. Monomers of the first type may make up 25 to 96 percent of the interpolymer, however, skilled practitioners will recognize that not all suitable carboxylic monomers may be used in such a great range of proportions. Certain monomers, such as maleic and fumaric acids, cannot be polymerized to make up more than 50 mole per cent of the interpolymer. In the case of those monomers which cannot make up more than 50 mole per cent of the interpolymer, a proportionately larger fraction of the monomers must be of the third type.

Preferred polymerizable unsaturated carboxylic acids are the alpha-beta unsaturated acids and particularly acrylic and methacrylic acids.

The second component of the interpolymer used as the fixative-thickener of the hair setting preparation of this invention is a polyunsaturated monomer which serves a a cross-linking agent. Polyunsaturated hydrocarbons, esters, nitriles, ethers, ketones, alcohols, and acid anhydrides and polyunsaturated compounds incorporating one or more of these and other functional groups are useful. Cross-liking agents include polyunsaturated hydrocarbons such as divinyl benzene, divinyl naphthalene, and low molecular weight (soluble) polymerized dienes such as polybutadiene, diand poly-unsaturated esters such as ethylene glycol diacrylate and dimethacrylate. glyceryl diand tri-acrylates,

allyl acrylate and methacrylate, crotyl acrylate, allyl cinnamate, diallyl oxalate, diallyl phthalate, and the like; polyunsaturated acids such as alpha, betaisopropylidene propionic acid; polyunsaturated ethers such as divinyl ether, diallyl ether, dimethallyl ether, diallyl ethylene glycol ether and the like. A particularly preferred cross-linking agent is allyl methacrylate.

The third component monomer of the interpolymer fixative-thickener is selected from the group consisting of polymerizable amines, polymerizable amides, alkyl esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and hydroxy esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids. Preferred monomers useful as the third monomer include t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, t-butylacrylamide, methyl methacrylate, methyl acrylate, hydroxypropyl acrylate, isopropylacrylamide, acrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, diisobutylene-acrylamide, hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate and vinyl pyrrolidone. Mixtures of monomers can also be used to form the third component of the interpolymer.

The interpolymers used in the hair setting preparation of this invention are preferably prepared by adding the monomers to an inert solvent such as benzene which is not a solvent for polymer, together with a free radical initiator such as benzoyl or lauroyl peroxide. As the polymerization proceeds, the polymer precipitates. When polymerization is complete, the polymer is recovered by filtration, washed, and dried.

The hair setting preparations used in the process of this invention are preferable prepared by dispersing the polymer in the form of a finely divided powder in the solvent with vigorous agitation. A solution of a basic compound such as sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, or triethanolamine is then added while stirring is continued. Adding the basic compound ionizes the carboxyl groups of the polymer and causes the solution to thicken to the desired viscosity. Water is a preferred solvent for these hair setting preparations, but mixtures of water with water-miscible organic solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycerine, and lower molecular weight glycols can also be used. The quantity of alkaline agent used will vary depending on the equivalent weight of the base, the desired viscosity, and the amount of polymer used, but ordinarily 0.5 to 1.0 parts of base are used per 10 part of polymer.

The viscosity of the hair setting preparations may be adjusted to provide either waveset gels or waveset lotions. The higher molecular weight polymers give gels. Lotions may be prepared by using a polymer ofa lower molecular weight as the fixative-thickener or by adding a quantity of a salt such as sodium chloride or sodium sulfate to the polymer solution to lower the viscosity to that appropriate for a waveset lotion.

The hair setting preparations used in the process of this invention exhibit excellent adhesion to hair, excellent hair fixative properties, and good rheological properties and clarity. They impart to the hair good dry combing properties, good sheen and good antistatic properties. In addition to equalling or surpassing the properties of presently available gels and lotions for hair setting, these preparations have economic advantages since they require less of the fixativethickener to attain their effect than is required in other preparations and also have a simpler composition since the fixative-thickener is a single compound which takes the place of the two separate compounds which are found in presently available preparations.

The hair setting procedure used in practicing this invention is entirely conventional. Ordinarily the hair is wetted, the setting preparation is applied, the hair is fixed in the desired configuration and allowed to dry while it is held in this configuration. Variations from this procedure may be known to those skilled in the art and may be introduced without departing from the scope of this invention.

This invention will be further illustrated by the following examples which are not, however, intended to limit its scope. In these examples, all parts are by weight unless otherwise indicated. viscosities, in cen tipoises (cps), were measured with a Brookfield viscometer Model RVF.

EXAMPLE I This example shows the preparation of several representative polymers useful as the fixative-thickener of the hair setting preparations used in this invention.

Four interpolymers were prepared according to the following procedure. In each case solutions A and B were prepared according to the formulas listed in Table 1 Each polymer was prepared by charging Solution A and percent of Solution B into a 2-liter flask equipped with a reflux condenser, thermometer, dropping funnel, and 4-inch paddle stirrer. While stirring at 520- revolutions per minute the mixture was heated to reflux temperature and held for minutes. At the end of the hold period the remainder of Solution B was added through the dropping funnel at a uniform rate over a 2% hour period. When all of Solution B had I been added the mixture was held at reflux temperature for one additional hour. The reaction mixture was then cooled to room temperature and the precipitated polymer was filtered, washed with fresh benzene, and dried at 100 F.

EXAMPLE [I This example shows the preparation and use of several waveset gels using some of the interpolymer fixative-thickeners of Example 1.

Five waveset gels were prepared according to the following procedure. The compositions of the gels are give in Table II.

With moderate agitation the resin was slowly sprinkled into the water, care being used to avoid lump formation and air entrainment. When all the polymer has been added, the auxiliary ingredients of Solution A were added and dissolved by stirring. With moderate agitation the triethanolamine solution was then slowly added, the rate of agitation being increased as the viscosity during the course of the addition. Mixing was continued until the gel formed was uniform. The final viscosities and the pH of the gels prepared are tabulated in Table [1.

TABLE I1 waveset Gel l 2 3 4 5 Solution A Polymer l of Ex. 1 (parts) 1.0 2.0 x x x Polymer 4 of Ex. 1 (pans) x x 1.0 2.0 x Polymer 5 of Ex. 1 (parts) x x x x 3.0 Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate (parts) 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.1 Red water soluble dye soln. (parts) 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 x Water soluble perfume (parts) 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 x Deionized water 93.91 87.91 93.91 48.5 parts 87.91 Denatured x x x x 48.4 alcohol to give Solution B 10% aqueous triethanolpH=7 l amine (parts) 5.00 10.00 5.00 10.00 pH 5.2 5.5 5.7 5.7 7.1 Viscosity (cps) 60,000 80,000 17,000 33,000

(RVF Brookfield/ZO RPM/72F.) 50,000

The waveset gels so prepared were tested by applying to hair with the fingers, combing and setting the hair, and allowing it to dry. The gels were found to be superior in holding ability, ease of combing, sheen, and antistatic properties to commercial waveset gels.

EXAMPLE III This example shows the preparation and evaluation of waveset lotions containing the interpolymer fixativethickeners of this invention.

A terpolymer fixative-thickener was prepared by the procedure of Example I having a composition of 75 parts acrylic acid, 25 parts isopropyl acrylamide, and 0.8 parts of allyl methacrylate.

A number of waveset lotions were prepared according to the polymer slowly to the water with stirring until all the polymer had dissolved, and thereafter adding the remaining ingredients of Solution A. The triethanolamine solution was then added with moderate agitation and the mixture was stirred until it was uniform. Final pH and viscosities of the waveset lotions are tabulated in Table 111.

TABLE 111 \Vuvr-svl, lotioll A It (7 I) 1) 1" lolyuu-r lpurts) 1.110 1. (m 1.110 1.011 1.011 3.011 lM-ionizml \vutvr (pm-ts) 51:1. .15 H3. .05 513115 1:3. n5 ":1. 1m mi. no Solution A:

Methyl p41yrlmxyln-uzrml parts) 005 11.05 11. (15 (1.115 I1 I15 0. 10 h'tfllllllll ('lIlOl'l ii' (parts) (1.25 0. ml 1.00 Sodium sulfate (parts) 11.25 11.50 Solution ll 1 1', aqueous ll'l llulli liitllliIH' (puns 5.1111 5,1 11 5,1111 5,111; r, m, mm; 01 p I 5.1 5.0 1.8 an 4.'1 4.x Viscosity llirooklu-l l RVIHU1'.|).1l|.,7l5' l' .J 35, 13, mm 1,600 13,5011 1.1mm 13,0011

The waveset lotions were tested as described in Example Il and were found to have useful hair setting properties.

EXAMPLE [V This example shows the preparation and testing of several waveset gels.

Four waveset gels were prepared by the procedure described in Example 11 using the formulas given in Table IV. The effectiveness of the gels in holding hair in a set configuration was measured by the following curl retention test procedure.

Swatches of European human hair each weighing 2 grams were firmly bound at the root end, suspended from a horizontal bar, wet with distilled water, combed, and cut so as to measure inches in length. Each swatch was then washed with a shampoo and thoroughly rinsed with water.

Equal quantities of the gel to be evaluated were then applied to the swatches with the fingers and evenly distributed by massaging the swatches with the fingers. The wet swatches were then combed and observations on the tendency to tangle or snarl were recorded. Snarled hair could not, of course, be easily combed. Each composition which was tested was rated as either poor, fair, good, or excellent with respect to its wet combing properties. The combed, wet swatch was next wound on a polytetrafluorethylene mandrel having a one-half inch diameter, after which the mandrel was removed while the curl was secured with a clip. The thus treated curl was dried at 140 F. for a period of 30 minutes and then conditioned for 16 hours at 72 F. and a relative humidity of 50 percent.

After the conditioning period was completed, the clip was removed and the curl was unwound thus forming a loose spiral. The curl was measured for initial length (L,,) and then placed in a cabinet wherein the temperature was maintained at 72 F. and the relative humidity at 90 percent.

The length of the curl was recorded at 30 minute intervals over a period of 180 minutes. To calculate the percent curl retention, the following formula was used: Percent Curl Retention [(L L,) (l00)]/[(L L,,)] where L length of hair fully extended,

L, length of hair before exposure to 90 percent relative humidity,

L, length of hair after exposure to 90 percent relative humidity.

The percent curl retention values are tabulated in Table IV, along with control values obtained when a commercial waveset gel was tested. It can be seen that the curl retention of the formulations of this example is superior to that of the commercial gel. In case of wet and dry combing, adhesion to the hair, gloss, and antistatic and holding properties, the formulations of this example were also superior to the properties of the commercial gel.

TABLE IV Commercial Formulation A B C D Gel Polymer l of Example I (parts) 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (4.1% solids) Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate (parts) 0.1 0.l 0.l 0.l Deionized water (parts) 72.9 73.9 73.9 73.9 Denatured alcohol (parts) 25.0 25.0 25.0 25.0 Triethanolamine (parts) 1.0 0.5 0.75 0.5 Ammonium hydroxide (cone) (parts) x x x 0.20 pH 7.00 5.75 6.10 6.40 5.7 Viscosity (cps) 55,000 25,000 45,000 45,000

(RVF Brookfield/20 40,000 rpm/72Clarity Exc. Exc. Exc Exc. Fair Curl retention at 30 minutes 49.7 49.8 49.9 44.6 34.6 at 120 minutes 40.6 41.7 39.8 34.4 26.7

In summary, this invention provides a novel hair setting process using a preparation containing a single fixative-thickener.

Variations may be made in proportions, procedures, and materials without departing from the scope of this invention.

What is claimed is:

l. A process for setting hair comprising the steps of:

a. applying to the hair an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution of an interpolymer comprising 25 to 96 per cent, by weight, of residues derived from at least one polymerizable, ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, 0.2 to 2.0 per cent, by weight, of residues derived from at least one polyunsaturated monomer having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, and 4 to 75 per cent, by weight, of residues derived from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of polymerizable amines, polymerizable amides, alkyl esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, said solution having been neutralized with a basic compound to a pH between about 4.0 and about 1 1.0, and having a viscosity between about 1,000 and about 90,000 centipoises,

b. fixing the hair in a desired configuration, and

0. allowing the hair to dry while it is retained in said desirable configuration.

2. The process of claim 1 wherein said solution of an interpolymer contains between 0.3 percent and about 4.0 percent, by weight, of said interpolymer.

3. The process of claim 1 wherein said ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid is acrylic acid.

4. The process of claim 1 wherein said polyunsaturated monomer is allyl methacrylate.

5. The process of claim 1 wherein said polymerizable amine is t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate.

6. The process of claim 1 wherein said basic compound is selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, and triethanolamine.

Claims

2. The process of claim 1 wherein said solution of an interpolymer contains between 0.3 percent and about 4.0 percent, by weight, of said interpolymer.
3. The process of claim 1 wherein said ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid is acrylic acid.
4. The process of claim 1 wherein said polyunsaturated monomer is allyl methacrylate.
5. The process of claim 1 wherein said polymerizable amine is t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate.
6. The process of claim 1 wherein said basic compound is selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, and triethanolamine.