EP0792597A1 - Method of producing the parts of the upper for orthopaedic shoes - Google Patents

Abstract

The method produces a last copy (22), on which characteristics are marked, and corresponding blanks are cut. The characteristic lines are created by mathematical functions between marking or reference points, and are stored in a computer. Contours and marking points are fed into the computer. All stored digitalised data is compared with reference measurements taken from the last, and corrected. The correct blanks are shown on a screen, or drawn, and are cut from flat material, eg. paper, by a cutting plotter.

Description

TECHNICAL AREA

The invention relates to a method with which the individual part blanks required for an orthopedic shoe upper can be produced. The shoe upper is composed of several individual parts. The number and shape of the individual part cuts depends on the respective shoe model and also on whether the shoe is to be held together by means of eyelets, an elastic band or a Velcro fastener and to be held on the respective foot. In the mass production of shoes and thus also shoe uppers, the same individual part cuts can be used in large quantities. It is different with orthopedic shoes. These shoes are individually adapted to each foot. The shoes are unique in their form. The individual cut pieces must therefore be made again for each individual shoe.

STATE OF THE ART

It is known to produce or construct the individual blanks for orthopedic shoe uppers by hand. First, a last is made. A last copy of the last is then made. This bar copy is cut out of a film, for example, and corresponds in size to half the bar. The cutting characteristic curves typical of the respective stem model are drawn in or constructed on the last copy, on the basis of marking points entered in the last copy. Such marking points are viewpoint, ball point, shaft termination point, break point and a die Point on the center of the heel. The point of view marks from the front the first point visible from above on the last or on the foot after the rise in the toe area. This point marks the point up to which decorative seams and the like can be moved forward. The ball point marks the widest part of the forefoot and also determines the slip area for a shoe. The upper end of the shaft marks the rear height of the upper in low shoe models. The break point represents the actual rear end of the shoe model. Finally, the middle of the heel shows the highest point in the heel area.

As a rule, for example with derby models, the size of half the slip-in width (derby width) is still required. Therefore the derby width is noted on the last copy. The shoe size also represents a further point of reference. The shoe size has an influence, for example, on the proportion of the individual shaft parts, such as. B. the eyelet parts in the area of the back of the foot. Additional reference points can also arise depending on whether the orthopedic shoe is intended for a hollow foot or a flat foot, or whether a foot is normal over a wide range. On the basis of these marking points and other reference points, the cutting characteristics are then entered in the bar copy. The last allowance required for sewing the individual parts together and the other allowances required for orthopedic reasons are added to the last copy. These additions can be due to padding, the z. B. shortened feet or missing foot areas may be required.

The cutting characteristics should always look approximately the same for a particular model, regardless of the respective orthopedic shoe shape. The construction of the individual blanks is very time consuming.

PRESENTATION OF THE INVENTION

Based on this prior art, the object of the invention is to provide an economically advantageous method for producing the individual part blanks required for an orthopedic shoe upper.

This invention is given by the features of claim 1. The invention is accordingly characterized by the following process steps:

The shaft-dependent cutting characteristic curves are created by mathematical functions running between different marking and / or reference points and are stored in an electronic data processing system (EDP). In the case of various shoe models, a corresponding number of cut characteristic curves are then functionally recorded in the EDP, stored and can be called up according to the model type. The mathematical functions also depend on the position of the marking and other reference points.

Then the outline of the last copy taken from the last can be entered into the EDP. The marking points described above are also entered on the outline.

It has been found that this copy of the last can warp in relation to the surface of the last from which it was removed, and in particular can be too small. Therefore, several length measurements (control measurements) are taken directly from the last and the last copy is distorted accordingly, so that these length measurements are then also identical on the newly created last copy. Further measures are the subject of the further features of claim 1.

The additional reference points still required for the position of the cutting characteristics are then entered into the corrected, new last copy. Such reference points take into account allowances that are required in terms of production technology and / or are important for the purpose of orthopedic foot corrections.

The cut characteristic curves determined in this way, which represent the contour lines of the cuts, are then automatically determined by the EDP on the basis of the mathematical functions that are dependent on the model and size. The individual cuts can be output in terms of data.

The blanks can be displayed graphically on a screen and also shown or output. Graphic representations can visually represent the course of the construction steps carried out by the computer.

The blanks can not only be shown graphically but also with the help of a plotter made of a flat material such as. B. a paper material can be cut out. Cuts can then be placed directly on upper leather skins and the individual parts of a shoe upper can be cut out.

The new bar copy in particular is advantageously stored in a retrievable manner by specifying personal data in the EDP. In this way it is possible to produce several models or, at a later point in time, a further shoe upper in a simple manner in that the individual cuts can be called up immediately by the EDP without further construction effort and can be cut out of a paper web, for example, by means of a cutting plotter.

Similar to the cuts for the shoe upper itself, the individual lining parts to be used in the shoe upper can also be calculated, if necessary displayed graphically on a screen and cut out from a flat material such as paper material by a cutting plotter. The individual lining parts are based on the number and size of the upper material and, like the above-described upper material cuts, can be processed and called up in the same way as EDP.

Further features and advantages of the invention result from the features further specified in the claims and from the following exemplary embodiment.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

Fig. 1

die von einem Leisten abgenommene Leistenkopie vor und nach ihrer Korrektur,

Fig. 2

die korrigierte, neue Leistenkopie mit ihren Zuschnitt-Kennlinien,

Fig. 3

die einzelnen, von einem Schneideplotter ausgeschnittenen Zuschnitt-Formen eines Schuh-Schaftes.

The invention is described and explained in more detail below with reference to the embodiment shown in the drawing. Show it:

Fig. 1

the last copy of a last before and after its correction,

Fig. 2

the corrected, new last copy with its cutting characteristics,

Fig. 3

the individual cut shapes of a shoe upper cut out by a cutting plotter.

WAYS OF CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

The last copy 10 shown in dash-dotted lines in FIG. 1 represents the outline of an area which corresponds to half the last of a foot modeled in the longitudinal direction. This last copy 10 is made by hand. Five marking points are indicated in the last copy 10: view point 12, ball point 14, shaft end point 16, break point 18 and heel center 20. These points have already been mentioned above and represent known construction points in a last copy 10.

This bar copy 10 is read into an electronic data processing system (EDP). In the present case, the strip copy 10, that is to say the film, is placed on a digitizing tablet and scanned over the circumference. In addition, the above five points are entered into the EDP. The outline and thus the bar copy 10 is then available in digitized form in the EDP.

The shape of the last copy 10 is then checked and, if necessary, replaced by a new last copy 22. The latter occurs in the cases in which the strip copy 10 does not correspond to the exact surface of the strip. To check and possibly correct the last copy 10 and produce a new last copy 22, the actual distance between the center of the heel 20 and the lower front edge 24 is determined on the last. This distance E1 is measured on the extension of the straight line 25 going through the viewing point 12 and ball point 14 from the heel point 20. This leads to a possibly new edge 26.

Viewpoint 12 is also corrected accordingly. The distance between the center of the heel 20 and the point of view 12 is taken - directly on the last, along the surface or outside of the last, and this distance E2 is plotted on the straight line 25. The point of view 12 then moves to the new point of view 28 if necessary.

The ball point 14 is now shifted on the straight line 25 such that the distance between the point of view 12 and the ball point 14 corresponds to the distance between the new point of view 28 and the new ball point 30. The distance between the point of view and the point of the ball represents the so-called sheet length 32. The sheet length can be easily recognized on a shoe from an angle from above and should therefore also be present in the correct length and position in the corresponding orthopedic shoe.

Starting from the bale point 30, the greatest bale width is then removed in the direction of the sheet line 33 to the lower region 34 of the last copy. This results in the lower construction point 36 on the new last copy 22.

The rear area of the last copy 10 is congruent with the new last copy 22, since material-related distortions of the last copy made from film material are not to be expected there.

The new last copy 22 is shown in solid lines in FIG. 2. The five marking points mentioned above, namely viewpoint 28, ball point 30, shaft end point 16, break point 18 and heel center 20 are entered. In addition, the edge 26 and the foot point 40 present below the heel center 20 can be seen. The lower construction point 36 is also shown.

The lower area 34 of the bar copy 22 is now enlarged by a strip area 42. This area 42 results from a lasting allowance and possibly from a midsole to be produced later, for example from cork. In the present case, no cork midsole is required and therefore no corresponding addition is provided. The gusset allowance is necessary to sew together the later cut-out shaft material, such as leather material. Curve 44 is the outline delimiting area 42 below adapted to the curve of the lower region 34 and compensates for the curve curvature 46 present there by a smaller curve curvature 48.

In the rear heel area, the curve 44 ends at a point 50. This point lies once on the downward, tangential extension of the heel curve 52 at the base point 40. The distance from the point 40 corresponds to the lasting allowance at this point.

In the present case, it is a derby model. Derby point 58 seen on the straight line between bale point 30 and point 36 is distant from bale point 30 by the dimension of the derby width. The derby width corresponds to half the slip-in width in such derby models.

The point 60 is determined from the derby point 58 by a distance value entered into the EDP. Based on known construction auxiliary lines, the model-dependent upper construction point 62 (front end of the shaft) in the upper curve area 64 of the last copy 22 is then determined by computer. The upper derby sheet 70 can then be determined by computer and entered graphically in the last copy 22. The construction point 74 present in the region of the lower curve curvature 48 represents the lower end of the lower derby arch 76, which descends from the construction point 60. An ankle arch 80 running between the upper point 62 and the shaft termination point 16 is also calculated and displayed graphically by computer .

In parallel to the heel curve 52, which runs between the lower point 50 and the termination point 18, a curve 84 is determined by computer. The distance between curves 52 and 84 represents the width of half rear belt 88 (Fig. 3).

The characteristic curves shown in dashed lines in FIG. 2 are found in the individual cuts in FIG. 3. The individual parts are cut out of a paper web along these dashed lines, taking into account seam allowances, if necessary. It arises z. B. the rear belt 88 by doubling the strip present in FIG. 2 between the curves 84 and 52, also a front part 90, a side part 92, a tongue part 94 and a lining part 96. The side part 92 is required twice and can be folded down can be used twice.

The front part 90 is created by mirroring from the corresponding front part 90 a of the last copy 22. The upper and lower lobes 102, 104 present in the front part 90 each correspond to the surface area present below the lower derby arch 76 and the lower curve 48. This area 104 a visible from the last copy 22 is not delimited by the outer line 106 of the two tabs 102 and 104, but by the recessed cutting line 100 within these two tabs 102, 104. The cut-out line 100 represents the curve of the lower derby arch 76. The area between the cut-out line 100 and the outer line 106 includes an addition 108. This addition 108 is required, for example, to sew another part such as the side part 92 onto the front part 90 to be able to. For this reason, the side part 92 also has a corresponding addition 110, in the region of the left and upper edge in FIG. 3. This addition 110 is predetermined between the outer line 112 and a cutting line 114. The cutting line 114 delimits the surface area 116 visible in the bar copy 22.

In a corresponding manner, the tongue part 94 has a lateral addition 118 in its left end region in FIG. 3, with which it can be sewn on in the central region 122 of the front part 90.

Four points 124 are marked in the side part 92, which identify locations of eyelets or the like.

Within the cut-out line 114, a dash-dotted marking line 130 is printed out in the side part 92 in a computerized manner. This marking line 130 represents the line course of a decorative seam. By rubbing or pushing through along the marking line 130, the line course of this decorative seam can then be indicated on a leather material, for example.

The lining part 96, which, like the side part 92, is present twice on a shaft, on the inside and on the outside of the shaft concerned, is adapted to the outline and the shape of the side parts 92 and the front part 90 accordingly.

The cut-out lines, which are shown in broken lines in the parts shown in FIG. 3, represent cutouts approximately 1 mm wide and several mm long, which are arranged one behind the other in terms of perforation. In these cut-out lines, lines can then be applied with the aid of a marking pen, such as a pencil, to an upper leather skin placed below the part in question.

When shoes are mentioned in the foregoing, they are to be understood to mean all types of shoes, including slippers, bathing shoes, clogs, slippers, sneakers, work shoes, hiking shoes or even boots. The expression “shoes” is also intended to encompass the shoe shape of the sandal or that of laced boots.

Claims (8)

A method of making the component blanks required for an orthopedic shoe upper, wherein - a last copy of a last is made, - on the last copy the typical cutting characteristics for the respective upper model are drawn, on the basis of marking points entered in the last copy such as view point, ball point, upper end point, break point and heel center, as well as additional reference points, - the blanks resulting from the cutting characteristics are cut out, taking into account allowances caused by the sewing and / or by orthopedic peculiarities,
characterized in that the shaft-dependent cutting characteristic curves are created by mathematical functions running between different marking and / or reference points and are stored in an EDP, - the outline and the marking points are entered or read into the EDP data or point by point, - The then digitized existing outline in the EDP together with their marking points with length measures taken directly from the strips (control measures) are compared and, if necessary, adapted to these length measures by - The distance between the center of the heel and the lower front edge of the last is adopted identically on the last copy and, if necessary, the distance from the point of view to the point of view is extended beyond the point of view, - if necessary, the distance between the center of the heel and the point of view is corrected in a comparable manner, - the distance between the point of view and the point of the bale is maintained, - the greatest distance between the bale point and the lower section of the last copy in the area of the bale (widest front of the last) is taken over, - the reference points still required for the position of the cutting characteristic curves are entered in terms of data into the new strip copy received, - The cutting characteristic curves are automatically determined by the EDP on the basis of the mathematical functions available in terms of model and size, - The individual cuts are output in terms of data. Method according to claim 1,
characterized in that - The blanks are displayed graphically on a screen and / or graphically, or are output. The method of claim 1 or 2,
characterized in that - The blanks are cut from a flat material using a cutting plotter. Method according to claim 3,
characterized in that - The flat material is paper material. Method according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that - The measure of half the slip width (derby width) is taken over on the last copy and this measure is removed in terms of distance along the route corresponding to the widest point of the last, starting from the bale point. Method according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that - The characteristic values characterizing the foot size and / or foot shape are taken into account when determining the cutting characteristic curves, such as shoe size, hollow, normal or flat foot, heel height, greatest wedge allowance, largest cork midsole. Method according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that - The new last copy is saved individually in the EDP by specifying personal data. Method according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that - Starting from the individual cuts by the EDP, the individual feed parts are calculated, optionally graphically displayed on the screen and cut out of a flat material such as paper material by the cutting plotter.

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