DE19756377A1 - Enhancing light protection factor of sun screen preparations containing UV filter compound - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of 18-38C hydroxystearoylstearates to increase the light protection factor of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing a conventional UV filter substance is new.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. Depending on their respective wavelength, the rays have various effects on the organ skin: the so-called UV-C radiation with a Wavelength, which is less than 290 nm, is from the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere absorbed and therefore has no physiological significance. Cause it Radiation in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B range, a Erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less strong burns calculations. As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight becomes the tighter Range indicated around 308 nm.

For protection against UV-B radiation, numerous compounds are known in which It is mostly derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, the 4-aminobenzoic acid, the Cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole is.

It has long been wrongly assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm only a negligible biologi and that, accordingly, the UV-B rays for most Damage to the human skin are responsible. Meanwhile, though Through numerous studies it has been proven that UV-A radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes  the skin is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation. Also, the injurious one Flow of UV-B radiation by UV-A radiation to be amplified.

So it is u. a. proved that even the UV-A radiation under normal everyday life conditions sufficient to within a short time the collagen and elastin fibers damage that is essential to the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-induced skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of light-aged skin gehö For example, wrinkles and wrinkles and an irregular, furrowed relief. In addition, the affected by light-induced aging can be irregular Have lateral pigmentation. Also the formation of brown spots, keratoses and even carcinomas or malignant melanoma is possible. A through the everyday UV-Be In addition, prematurely aged skin is characterized by a lower activity Langerhans cells and a mild, chronic inflammation.

About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the Earth consists of UV-A radiation len. While the UV-B radiation is strong depending on numerous factors varies (eg annual and time of day or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains unab depending on year and daytime or geographical factors day by day rela tiv constant. At the same time, most of the UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis, while about 70% of the UV-B rays from the horny layer be withheld.

Preventive protection against UVA rays, for example by applying sunscreen filters in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation on the skin, is therefore of fundamental importance.

In general, the light absorption behavior of sunscreen filter substances is very high well known and documented, especially in most industrialized countries positive lists for The use of such substances exist, which are quite strict standards for the Create documentation. For the dosage of the substances in the finished formulation At best, the extinction values can provide guidance, because of Interactions with ingredients of the skin or the skin surface itself can Uncertainties occur. Furthermore, it is usually difficult to estimate in advance how  evenly and in which layer thickness the filter substance in and on the horny layer the skin is distributed.

To test the UV-A protection performance, the IPD method is usually used (IPD = immediate pigment darkening). This is - similar to the determination of the light protection factor - a value that indicates how much longer the light is Protective skin can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same Pigmentation occurs as with unprotected skin.

The use concentration of known sunscreen filter substances, in particular also in the UV-A range show a high filtering effect, is often just in combination with limited to solids other than solids. It therefore prepares certain formulation difficulties, higher sun protection factors or UV-A protection to achieve performance.

As sunscreen filters are usually expensive and some sunscreen In addition, filter substances are difficult in higher concentrations in cosmetic or the To incorporate matological preparations, it was an object of the invention, on simple and inexpensive way to get to preparations, which in unusual Lich low concentrations of conventional UV-A sunscreen filter substances nevertheless achieve acceptable or even high UV-A protection performance.

It was, however, surprising and not foreseeable for the skilled person that the use of C _18-38- Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat for increasing the UV-A protective performance of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing at least one conventional UV-A filter substance and / or a broadband filter substance, which also provides protection against UV radiation having a wavelength greater than 335 nm, would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate is characterized by the chemical structure

where n can be up to 70, but is essentially in the range 18-38. C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate is available, for example, under the designation K80P from Koster Keunen Holland bv.

According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously contain from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, of C _18-38- alkylhydroxystearoylsteacate.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 5-isopropyldibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 63250-25-9), which are characterized by the structure

sold by Merck under the trade mark Eusolex® 8020 and / or the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is characterized by the structure

and sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol® 1789.

Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid:

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt:

and the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the context of the present invention are further so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances containing both UV-A and UV-B rays absorb.

Advantageous broadband filters are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives having the following structure:

wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of ver branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred is 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, which is characterized by the following structure is:

Cosmetic and dermatological formulations according to the invention included one or more conventional UV-A filters as individual substances or in any Gemi between them, in the lipid phase and / or in the aqueous phase.  

Particularly preferred is the use of C _18-38 -alkylhydroxystearoylstearate to increase the UV-A protection performance of dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular of 5-iso-propyldibenzoylmethane and / or 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. Surprisingly, the use of C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate greatly enhances the UV-A protection performance of dibenzoylmethane derivatives.

The total amount of UV-A filter substances in the finished cosmetic or derma tological preparations is advantageously from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 10.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-% selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention also advantageously contain, although not necessarily, inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cers (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO ₂ .

Such pigments are to be regarded as UV filter substances in the context of the invention.

The inorganic pigments according to the invention are advantageously in hydrophobic form before, d. h. that they are superficially treated water repellent. These surfaces act can consist in that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction according to

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface)

is produced. n and m are random stoichiometric parameters meter, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.  

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names T 805 from Degussa.

The total amount of inorganic pigments, especially hydrophobic anorgani micropigments into the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageous from the range of 0.1-30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-10.0, in particular especially 0.5-6.0 wt .-% selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention may be composed as usual and the cosmetic and / or dermatologi light protection, and also for the treatment, care and cleansing of the skin and / or the hair and serve as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. Ent Accordingly, the preparations according to the invention, depending on their structure, at For example, be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day cream or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous, preparations of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical To use formulations. Preference is given in particular to such cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a skin care or make-up prod present.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention Preparations in the usual way for cosmetics on the skin and / or hair in applied sufficient amount.

Particularly preferred are such cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which are in the form of a sunscreen. Advantageously, these can additionally at least one further UV-A filter and / or at least one UV-B filter and / or at least one inorganic pigment, preferably an inorganic micropigment, contain.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic excipients, as ver usually in such preparations ver be used, for. As preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for Ver foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes  or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation Such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic Solvent or silicone derivatives.

The quantities of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary and Carrier and perfume may vary depending on the type of product be easily determined by the expert by simple trial and error.

An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred. Erfindungsge As favorable antioxidants, they can all be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological purposes Applications of suitable or common antioxidants can be used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urotroic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesterol and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and Salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthione insulfone, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg. Pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg B. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg., Vitamin E acetate), Vitamin A and derivatives (Vitamin A palmitate) and Koniferylbenzoat of Benzoeharzes, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacobaric acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) Selenium and its derivatives (z. B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 Wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Zuberei tung.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or which are antioxidants is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range of 0.001-10% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, also natural oils such as z. Castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably Esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propy glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower alkanoic acids C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions For the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkancar  bonsäuren a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsatd saturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be chosen advantageously from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl iso nonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, and synthetic, semysin thetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols le, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length ge from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can For example, be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-syn thetic and natural oils, eg. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, Rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Use of the present invention. It may also be advantageous if necessary waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea rat, mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred that in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils an additional content of other oil phase vertical components to use.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the invention used silicone oil. But other silicone oils are beneficial in Sin ne of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecylisono nanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may contain some geous

• - Alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol mo noethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl- or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous Products, also low C-number alcohols, e.g. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-Pro pandiol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, wel Ches or which can be advantageously selected from the group silicon di oxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. Hyaluronic acid, Xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the Group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of soge named carbopols, for example carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

According to the invention, the UV-A protection performance by the use of C _18-38- alkyl hydroxystearoylstearat in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, tend tend usual UV-A filters and / or UV-B filters, either as individual substances or in any mixtures among themselves, increased significantly in the lipid phase and / or in the aqueous phase.

Advantageously, the sunscreen formulations according to the invention can ent substances absorb ultraviolet radiation in the UV-B range, the total amount of fil tersubstanzen z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular especially 1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the skin from the overall protect the area of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as sunscreen to serve medium.

The UV-B filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are z. B .:

• 3-Benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-Ben zylidencampher;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2- ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhe xyl ester);
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxy zimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-Hy hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are z. B .:

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or tri ethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenme thyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their Salts.

The list of mentioned UV-B filters, which are additional for the purposes of the present invention can be used, of course, should not be limiting.  

It may also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV-Fil to use substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular ones as described in WO-A-92/20690.

The total amount of water-soluble UV filter substances in the finished kosmeti or dermatological preparations, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid or its salts and / or 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfone acid or salts thereof and / or 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid or their salts and / or 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid or their salts and / or benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) -10-sulfonic acid or their salts, is advantageously from the range of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-6.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, if the Presence of these substances is desired.

The total amount of oil-soluble UV filter substances in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example, 4,4 ', 4' '- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyl triimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) and / or 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane and / or 4-Methylbenzylidencampher, is advantageous from the Be rich of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-6.0 wt .-% selected, based on the Ge total weight of the preparations, if the presence of these substances is desired.

The total amount of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxy cinnamate in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations, if the presence of this substance is desired, advantageously from the range of 0.1-15.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-7.5 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Yet another inventively advantageous to use additional light-protective filter substance is the Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Octocrylen), wel ches of BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 is available and is characterized by fol lowing structure:

The total amount of ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate in the finished kosmeti or dermatological preparations, if the presence of this substance is desired, advantageously from the range of 0.1-15.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-10.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous, according to the invention further UV-A and / or UV-B filters in cosmetic or dermatological preparations to incorporate For example, certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-Isopropylbenzylsalicylat, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octylsalicylate), homomenthylsalicylate.

The total amount of one or more salicylic acid derivatives in the finished kos metic or dermatological preparations is advantageously from the field of 0.1-15.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-8.0% by weight, based on the total amount weight of the preparations. When ethylhexyl salicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to use the total amount from the range of 0.1-5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-2.5 wt .-% to choose. When homomenthylsalicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to have its Ge total amount from the range of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-5.0 wt .-% to choose.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without it limit. All quantities, percentages and percentages are, if not indicated on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight the preparations.  

example 1 O / W Lotion

Wt .-% Glyceryl stearate SE 3.50 stearic acid 1.80 glycerin 3.00 cetearyl 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 dicaprylyl 8.00 Parsol® 1789 ¹ 3.00 C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 1.00 Carbomer 0.20 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.20 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 2 hydrodispersion

Wt .-% Pemulen® TR-1 ₂ 0.50 ethanol 3.50 glycerin 3.00 dimethicone 1.50 octyldodecanol 0.50 Caprylic / capric 5.00 C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 2.00 Parsol® 1789 ¹ 5.00 Carbomer 0.20 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.55 preservative q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 3 O / W cream

Wt .-% Glyceryl stearate SE 3.50 stearic acid 3.50 butylene 5.00 cetearyl 3.00 C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates 10.0 Parsol® 1789 ¹ 4.00 Uvinul® T150 ³ 4.00 C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 3.00 Carbomer 0.20 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.35 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 4 W / O Lotion

Wt .-% Dehymuls® PGPH ⁴ 3.50 Lameform® TGI ⁵ 3.50 butylene 5.00 ceresin 3.00 C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates 10.0 Uvinul® T150 ³ 4.00 Parsol® 1789 ¹ 4.00 C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 2.00 vaseline 2.00 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.35 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 5 O / W Lotion

Wt .-% Glycerol stearate SE 3.50 stearic acid 1.80 glycerin 3.00 cetearyl 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 dicaprylyl 8.00 Uvinul® T150 ³ 3.00 C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 1.00 Parsol® 1789 ¹ 2:00 Eusolex® 6300 ⁶ 1.00 Carbomer 0.20 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.20 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 6 hydrodispersion

Wt .-% Pemulen® TR-1 ² 0.50 ethanol 3.50 glycerin 3.00 dimethicone 1.50 octyldodecanol 0.50 Caprylic / capric 5.00 C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 2.00 Uvinul® T150 ¹ 5.00 Parsol® 1789 ¹ 2.00 Eusolex® 6300 ⁶ 1.00 Carbomer 0.20 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.55 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 7 O / W cream

Wt .-% Glyceryl stearate SE 3.50 stearic acid 3.50 butylene 5.00 cetearyl 3.00 C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates 10.0 Uvinul® T150 ¹ 4.00 CGF 1607 ⁷ 2.00 Eusolex® 6300 ⁶ 1.00 C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 3.00 Carbomer 0.20 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.35 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 8 W / O Lotion

Wt .-% Dehymuls® PGPH ⁴ 3.50 Lameform® TGI ⁵ 3.50 butylene 5.00 ceresin 3.00 C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates 10.0 Uvinul® T150 ¹ 4.00 Parsol® 1789 ¹ 2.00 Eusolex® 6300 ⁶ 1.00 Titanium dioxide 2.00 C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 2.00 vaseline 2.00 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.35 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 9 O / W Lotion

Wt .-% Glyceryl stearate SE 3.50 stearic acid 1.80 glycerin 3.00 cetearyl 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 dicaprylyl 8.00 Parsol® 1789 ¹ 3.00 C _18-38 alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate 1.00 CGF 1607 ⁷ 4.50 Carbomer 0.20 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.20 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

Example 10 O / W Lotion

Wt .-% Glyceryl stearate SE 3.50 stearic acid 1.80 glycerin 3.00 cetearyl 0.50 octyldodecanol 7.00 dicaprylyl 8.00 2-ethylhexyl 5.00 C _18-38 alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate 2.00 Parsol® 1789 ¹ 3.00 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone 5.00 Carbomer 0.20 Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.20 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demin. ad 100.00

¹ 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane
² copolymer of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are cross-linked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol (CTFA ref .: Acryla tes / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)
³ 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl)
⁴ triglycerol diisostearate
⁵ polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate
⁶ 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor
⁷ 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine

Claims (6)

1. Use of C _18-38 -Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat to increase the UV-A protection performance of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing at least one conventional UV-A filter substance and / or a broadband filter substance, which is also resistant to UV radiation having a wavelength greater than 335 nm is granted protection. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological sunscreens contain 0.1 to 20 wt .-% of C _18-38 -alkylhydroxy stearyl stearate. 3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological sunscreens contain 0.5 to 10 wt .-% C _18-38- Alkylhydroxy stearyl stearate. 4. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations as UV-A filter substance one or more fat-soluble UV-A filter substances, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 5-Isopropyldibenzoylmethane and / or 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, enthal th. 5. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations as UV-A filter substance one or more water-soluble UV-A filter substances, particularly water-soluble UV-A filter substances selected from the group phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and / or their salts, especially ders the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts and / or the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis- (2- benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt. 6. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that as UV-A filter substance a broadband filter is selected from the group of bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate, ins in particular 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine.